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post #1 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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so i have the daystar lower panel with 4 switches in it and only one switch is active, so i used one power supply to power all 4 switches. basically all its doing it making the switches light up and at the same time activating a single relay hooked up to 2 kc lights. anyway i tried to hook a second switch to my kc reverse lights and i blew the fuse. the fuse is only 3 amps because it was only designed to power 1 relay. so anyway my question would be that i want to run a new power to all 4 switches. i was thinking of running one heavy guage wire to a junction box and then branching each switch off of that and having a nice sized fuse maybe 20 amps or so. that should be plenty to run 4 relays at the most. has anyone done this? post pictures or let me know what you think of the idea. thanks

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post #2 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 01:54 PM Thread Starter
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or can i just put a bigger fuse in place of the 3 amp that is on my current power supply?

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post #3 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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Name:  circ_term.jpg
Views: 298
Size:  6.7 KB this is what i had in mind btw

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post #4 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 03:38 PM
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unless you stacked the wires on one terninal that block will not split power. you could daisy chain a jumper to each screw on one side and then tap off the other side to run your switches if you have to use it.

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post #5 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 03:41 PM
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i have the same sort of set up, i ran a rather heavy gauge wire into a 4 way split, then put fuses in b/w the block and the switches, u can run a rather large fuse and not worry about anything... hope this helps...

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post #6 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 04:57 PM
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Check this out.

https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13290

Im building something very similar. I'm running my power from my cig lighter to the switches to activate the relays. Im putting a 10amp fuse before the switches and daisy chaining them. Not sure about your switches, but mine can only handle 10amps max. The relays feed from the battery and to my lights, inverter, and such. Hope this helps a little.

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post #7 of 18 Old 01-21-2010, 05:03 PM
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I sounds like you may be wiring your relay wrong. Adding additional componets to your relay shouldn't blow the fuse by your switch. Are you running your switch between your lights power wire?
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post #8 of 18 Old 01-22-2010, 03:23 PM Thread Starter
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Nah its not wired wrong it the wire harness that comes with the lights. But I daisy chained all 4 switches off of the power suply that came with the lights. And like I said its a 3 amp fuse so the 4 switches and 2 relays is drawing more than 4 amps and causing the fuse to blow. So basicly I need a seperate power suply for each switch and I think ill be fine

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post #9 of 18 Old 01-22-2010, 05:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtcc687 View Post
Nah its not wired wrong it the wire harness that comes with the lights. But I daisy chained all 4 switches off of the power suply that came with the lights. And like I said its a 3 amp fuse so the 4 switches and 2 relays is drawing more than 4 amps and causing the fuse to blow. So basicly I need a seperate power suply for each switch and I think ill be fine
Only the lights in four switches and two relays coils???

If the 3 amp circuit is powering only the relay coils and the leds in the switches will not even draw 1 amp. Typical relay coil is 200 to 300 milliamps, a led is only like 10 or 20 milliamps. Something else is going on if a 3 amp fuse blew.

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post #10 of 18 Old 01-22-2010, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrogers View Post
Only the lights in four switches and two relays coils???

If the 3 amp circuit is powering only the relay coils and the leds in the switches will not even draw 1 amp. Typical relay coil is 200 to 300 milliamps, a led is only like 10 or 20 milliamps. Something else is going on if a 3 amp fuse blew.
That's what I was thinking. DCC can you draw up a schematic? It sounds like you are running your switchs of the main wire not the relay's coil.
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post #11 of 18 Old 01-23-2010, 11:40 AM Thread Starter
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the switches are the daystar rockers. and they dont appear to be leds they look like regular bulbs? would that draw more 3 amps? and anyway. if im going to run new power to all 4 switches than none of this should matter right? i mean im not electrician i just fallow the instructions that come with the lights. but you may be right because the fuse blows before i even flip the switch and that seemed weird to me. so what else could be wrong? everything is wired right because it came in a complete kit. the only thing i changed was adding a daisy chain basically just to make all the switches light up.

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post #12 of 18 Old 01-24-2010, 02:18 PM Thread Starter
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here is a crappy drawing of how its wired. hope you get the idea. let me know what im doing wrong

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post #13 of 18 Old 01-24-2010, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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and the white wire is going into my fuse box to a slot that only turns on when the car is running. that way when i shut off the jeep power the to switches is lost.

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post #14 of 18 Old 01-25-2010, 07:26 PM
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It looks right. Where is your second relay pin 30 connected to? Should be the battery also.
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post #15 of 18 Old 01-27-2010, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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well i started moving my switches to a new location so im just going to run a new hot wire from a 12 volt source and let you know what happens. should work fine.

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post #16 of 18 Old 01-27-2010, 08:33 PM
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RE: the KC lights diagram.

As you probably already know but just in case there are lurkers, hook to battery not high beam or low beam lines due to those being PWM (pulse) voltage instead of regular battery voltage on the JK.

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post #17 of 18 Old 01-28-2010, 08:05 PM Thread Starter
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and yes both relays run right to the battery

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post #18 of 18 Old 01-29-2010, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dtcc687 View Post
and yes both relays run right to the battery
I hear what your are saying man. But your drawing shows that you are useing your switch power to feed your reverse lights. If so, that is why you are blowing the fuse.

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