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post #1 of 12 Old 09-27-2014, 08:57 PM Thread Starter
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capacitors for led fogs with relay

Can someone tell me what capacitor and diode I need to be able to fire a relay with the stock fog light switch. I have a 2014 jku using rigid duallys. Also how to wire them in. When the engine is running I get flicker when the lights are on because of the PW wiring of the fog lights
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post #2 of 12 Old 09-27-2014, 09:51 PM
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While you are waiting for an answer to the relay/wiring question, I can say the fogs don't get pwm DC like the headlights do, so the flickering has some other cause.

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post #3 of 12 Old 09-28-2014, 12:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddm View Post
Can someone tell me what capacitor and diode I need to be able to fire a relay with the stock fog light switch. I have a 2014 jku using rigid duallys. Also how to wire them in. When the engine is running I get flicker when the lights are on because of the PW wiring of the fog lights
You don't need a capacitor and diode to wire in the relay. You would simply use the fog light feed wire to trigger the SPST relay.

Wire pin 30 to the battery. Pin 87 to the rigids. Pin 85 to ground. And pin 86 to the fog light feed wire. Pin 30 and 87 are the circuit for the lights so use appropriate sized wire and fuse (close to the battery on pin 30 wire feed). Pins 85 and 86 are just the trigger circuit and can be small gauge, like 18 or 20.

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post #4 of 12 Old 09-28-2014, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply but that's how it is run using the rigid d2 harness. I unhooked the fog switch and used the swith supplied with the harness and no flicker. I read some othe posts that had the same issue, but the threads didn't specify what capacitor or diode they wired in. They simply indicated that it took care of the issue.
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post #5 of 12 Old 09-28-2014, 04:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by toddm View Post
Thanks for the reply but that's how it is run using the rigid d2 harness. I unhooked the fog switch and used the swith supplied with the harness and no flicker. I read some othe posts that had the same issue, but the threads didn't specify what capacitor or diode they wired in. They simply indicated that it took care of the issue.
I'm glad you got it working. I have no idea why the fog switch causes flicker. Maybe because it's CANBUS? I can see a capacitor being wired in but a diode? For backfeed? I'm lost and will just leave that one alone. This is my first CANBUS vehicle. So now I know to stay out of the electrical forum. Damn I hate having to relearn shit.

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Last edited by 14Sport; 09-29-2014 at 04:29 AM.
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post #6 of 12 Old 09-28-2014, 05:06 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry maybe I wasn't clear, I didn't get it working the way I want to.i still need to figure out what size capacitor to use. Any suggestions wold be great
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post #7 of 12 Old 09-29-2014, 04:34 AM
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I found this on another site using google.

"So here is my write up on eliminating the flicker from installing LED lights into the fog light location using the steering column activation. This is how I did it and wired it. I have not seen any other write ups that have pictures of how it was done, so here is my attempt at it. I'm sure I may get bashed for shitty solder joints, the globs, not pretty, but it worked for me and I by no means am an expect at soldering. If someone see's issues (other than shitty solder joints), please let me know the issue so I can attempt to fix it. Again, this is how I did it and with the optest, the flicker did go away.

First, you will need this capacitor - Note: this capacitor is not water/weather proofed at all. You can get this one, or one of the same spec's that is weather proof.

Then, solder your stock fog light positive wire (should be white) to the positive wire of the fog light (red). Do the same for the negative wire (black on stock) and red with black stripe, or black on fog light. Once that is done, slide heat shrink over the solder joint far enough back up the wires so it won't heat up and shrink on you on the next step (can use electrical tape to keep the wires nice and tight).

Next - use a heat sink (helping hands work great) and attach to the capacitor. Then take your positive, or negative wires (doesn't matter which you do first) and solder them to the lead of the capacitor. NOTE: The Striped side is the negative side of the capacitor. If not wired correctly, it can cause damage to capacitor or wiring. Once the wires are soldered to the leads of the capacitor, slide the heat shrink down over the leads and apply heat.

To "weather proof", I used electrical tape over the heat shrink and on the wires and double backed over. Then I applied silicon over the electrical tape. Over that, I used the electrical conduit and then applied 2 more layers of electrical tape over the conduit. "
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post #8 of 12 Old 10-02-2014, 11:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 14Sport View Post
I found this on another site using google.

"So here is my write up on eliminating the flicker from installing LED lights into the fog light location using the steering column activation. This is how I did it and wired it. I have not seen any other write ups that have pictures of how it was done, so here is my attempt at it. I'm sure I may get bashed for shitty solder joints, the globs, not pretty, but it worked for me and I by no means am an expect at soldering. If someone see's issues (other than shitty solder joints), please let me know the issue so I can attempt to fix it. Again, this is how I did it and with the optest, the flicker did go away.

First, you will need this capacitor - Note: this capacitor is not water/weather proofed at all. You can get this one, or one of the same spec's that is weather proof.

Then, solder your stock fog light positive wire (should be white) to the positive wire of the fog light (red). Do the same for the negative wire (black on stock) and red with black stripe, or black on fog light. Once that is done, slide heat shrink over the solder joint far enough back up the wires so it won't heat up and shrink on you on the next step (can use electrical tape to keep the wires nice and tight).

Next - use a heat sink (helping hands work great) and attach to the capacitor. Then take your positive, or negative wires (doesn't matter which you do first) and solder them to the lead of the capacitor. NOTE: The Striped side is the negative side of the capacitor. If not wired correctly, it can cause damage to capacitor or wiring. Once the wires are soldered to the leads of the capacitor, slide the heat shrink down over the leads and apply heat.

To "weather proof", I used electrical tape over the heat shrink and on the wires and double backed over. Then I applied silicon over the electrical tape. Over that, I used the electrical conduit and then applied 2 more layers of electrical tape over the conduit. "

Holy shit, my post had a repost. It's been a while since I posted that up. I still get residual flicker every once in a while. I'm going to re-wire it to a relay in a box i made to elimate the flickering completely. You're best bet is to do the same. scrap the capacitor idea and go with just the relay.

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-02-2014, 06:43 PM Thread Starter
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I have mine setup with just the relay and I get the flicker while I am driving. I am wondering if the current isn't staying constant on the stock switch wires causing the relay to fluctuate thereby causing the flicker. I read a post on wrangler forum that somebody metered the current and saw it drop when the engine ran but it was constant without the engine on. Anyone else have or hear of this?
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post #10 of 12 Old 10-02-2014, 08:29 PM
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To filter out CAN BUS PWM, use a 220pF 35V electrolytic capacitor across the relay trigger inputs (observe capacitor polarity). To prevent the relay coil from spiking the TIPM when de-energized (switched off), use a 1N4001 diode on the positive trigger input, with the band on the diode facing towards the relay. The diode also acts as a 1A fuse.

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post #11 of 12 Old 10-03-2014, 04:53 AM Thread Starter
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Perfect! That was the info I needed, thank you

do I wire the capacitor in line with only the poitive input from the fog trigger?

Last edited by toddm; 10-03-2014 at 04:56 AM.
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-03-2014, 08:54 PM Thread Starter
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That did it works perfect. I attached a schematic that I found to help. It has the Radio Shack part numbers and details how to add the capacitor and diode.

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