Wiring Diagram for Aux Lights - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-14-2010, 07:22 PM Thread Starter
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Wiring Diagram for Aux Lights

So, the Lightforce Strykers are on my NEXT MOD list so now I need to prepare the support hardware.
These lights will be used as driving lamps, so where can I find a wiring diagram to wire the lights through a relay so they will shut off when the Highbeams are turned off. I will also be adding a toggle switch to turn them off when not required.

Jeff _(OllllllO)_



08 Black and Khaki JK Sahara Unlimited, Dual Tops, MyGig, Tow pkg, Trax-Lok Rear Diff,
Mods -- 3.5" Rock Krawler front springs, 2.5 TerraFlex BB rear, Mopar D44HD/J8, OX Locker, RCVs, 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on ProComp 7069, AEV Premium front bumper, Smittybilt X2O 12K Comp winch.
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post #2 of 10 Old 01-15-2010, 10:12 AM
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How much detail do you need? There are plenty of write-ups over on the "other" site if you search there.

In broadest terms you hook the high current portion of the relay directly to the battery and tap the low current "trigger" portion to the high beam +12VDC lead. You would also put the driving switch on the trigger lead. This gives you the option of "high beam only" or "high beam + driving".

I used diode to isolate the trigger circuit as well as a diode and capacitor on the relay because the high beam circuit is on the CANBus. This may or may not have been required. Perhaps somebody else here will chime in who just did a conventional wiring job.

Good luck!

Regards, Tim
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post #3 of 10 Old 01-15-2010, 07:02 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Tim

Thats exactly how I would like to set it up. but need a diagram with the color code for the Highbeam wire and some specs on the diodes and relay required. In Canada ( not sure about the US ) we have daylight running lights which run off the highbeam circuit, hence the need for the toggle switch..

Jeff _(OllllllO)_



08 Black and Khaki JK Sahara Unlimited, Dual Tops, MyGig, Tow pkg, Trax-Lok Rear Diff,
Mods -- 3.5" Rock Krawler front springs, 2.5 TerraFlex BB rear, Mopar D44HD/J8, OX Locker, RCVs, 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on ProComp 7069, AEV Premium front bumper, Smittybilt X2O 12K Comp winch.
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post #4 of 10 Old 01-15-2010, 07:21 PM
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I use a Radio Shack automotive relay http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...oductId=206247
but any automotive (i.e. temperature/weather resistant) relay would do.

Simple concept - a relay has a coil/magnet that when voltage is applied it pulls a metal strip down. So - one relay terminal "switch" goes to the positive of the battery, the other to your two new lights.

That leaves the coil - since you want to have these operate with the highbeams - the concept (but not practice) is the relay coil positive terminal to the stock high beams (white with green stripe on driver's side headlight), the last terminal to ground. So when the high beams come on/off - the coil activates/deactivates the relay switch.

Now here comes the complicated part - the JK uses the on-board computer with something called PWM (pulse width modulation) to control/monitor the headlight brightness (this is useful if the JK had daytime running lights which typically are 60% brightness - it does not in the USA, but you are pointing out in does in Canada). PWM is a way a digital microprocessor (which only speaks binary, you know that zero or 1 computer thing - 01010000 01010111 01001101) can easily control motors and lights. (I have oscilloscope output from my JK I am going to use in a post on PWM soon)

The problem with the way I have described it - is the relay coil has taken the high beam voltage line and routed it through the coil to ground. The fear is this will freak out the microprocessor system - possible damaging it causing an expensive repair and the dealer would say you voided the warranty by the mod.

Now, as a practical matter, because I have placed my relay by the headlight - the system could care less (Radio Shack relay coil is 400 ohms drawing 160ma - too small a change) - however - why risk it? Diodes and capacitors are cheap and it is not hard to do.

To find threads on JKOwners I use Google. For example enter this:
capacitor diode site:www.jkowners.com
and you get this:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&s...&aq=f&oq=&aqi=

I think the diagram you need is at:
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?p=142058

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Last edited by chasinternet; 01-15-2010 at 07:24 PM.
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post #5 of 10 Old 01-15-2010, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chasinternet View Post
Now here comes the complicated part - the JK uses the on-board computer with something called PWM (pulse width modulation) to control/monitor the headlight brightness (this is useful if the JK had daytime running lights which typically are 60% brightness - it does not in the USA, but you are pointing out in does in Canada). PWM is a way a digital microprocessor (which only speaks binary, you know that zero or 1 computer thing - 01010000 01010111 01001101) can easily control motors and lights.
Since the Canadian JK uses the highbeam circuit all the time, albeit modulated, I'm not sure he can use that as a trigger source. I would think the modulated signal would be enough to close the relay. (Or even worse buzz the relay.) As a result the driving lights would always be on even if the (full brightness) high beams aren't activated.

Now I read that the DRLs on the JK can be set to modulate either the high or the low beam circuit depending on the country that it is localized to. Do we know for sure the Canadian version uses the high beams?

Regards, Tim
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post #6 of 10 Old 01-16-2010, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo2000 View Post
Since the Canadian JK uses the highbeam circuit all the time, albeit modulated, I'm not sure he can use that as a trigger source. I would think the modulated signal would be enough to close the relay. (Or even worse buzz the relay.) As a result the driving lights would always be on even if the (full brightness) high beams aren't activated.

Now I read that the DRLs on the JK can be set to modulate either the high or the low beam circuit depending on the country that it is localized to. Do we know for sure the Canadian version uses the high beams?

Regards, Tim
You are absolutely correct -I incorrectly assumed they were modulating the low beam for driving lights. So to use the high beam driver wire would have to run the experiment. My JK doesn't have DRL - depends on the pulse widths and what is the minimum voltage (or in this case pulse) it takes to hold the relay. The relay I mentioned requires only 7.8V to trip so the DRL might trip it.

I should check how this is being done in California - the law requires driving lights be wired to high beams and I see plenty of DRL vehicles.

Could build a RC filter to limit the PWM to the relay during DRL pulsing (or a semiconductor comparator circuit to trigger at higher voltage) but that may be a bit tricky to figure out.

Perhaps this would work to eliminate the pulse problem, have PWM trigger this which in turn triggers a relay coil with 12V, would have to add a few components to block the lower DRL or just run it off the high beam switch on the dash:
http://www.amazon.com/PAC-TR7-Univer...dp/B0002J22BO/
http://pac-audio.com/productDetails....&CategoryID=31
http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductD...ons_010505.pdf

The 2007 JK service manual says:

"Daytime Running Lamps - Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) are standard equipment on vehicles manufactured for sale in Canada and optional on vehicles manufactured for the United States. Vehicles with DRL illuminate the high beam filament of each headlamp bulb at a reduced intensity to serve as the DRLs."

"DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS
Vehicles equipped with the Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) feature illuminate the high beam filament of both headlamp bulbs at a reduced intensity when the engine is running, the parking brake is released, the headlamps are turned OFF, and the optional automatic transmission gear selector lever is in any position except PARK. The park lamps may be ON or OFF for DRL to operate. For vehicles with a manual transmission, the DRL will operate in any transmission gear selector lever position. The TIPM must be programmed appropriately for this feature to be enabled.

Once enabled, anytime the TIPM receives electronic messages over the CAN data bus from the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) indicating the engine is running, from the ElectroMechanical Instrument Cluster (EMIC) (also known as the Cab Compartment Node/CCN) indicating the status of the left (lighting) multi-function switch is in any position except headlamps ON and the parking brake lever is released, and from the Transmission Control Module (TCM) indicating the automatic transmission gear selector lever is in any position except PARK, the TIPM provides a pulse width modulated voltage output to the headlamp high beam bulb filaments through high side drivers on the right and left high beam feed circuits to produce illumination at a reduced intensity."

"HEADLAMPS
The headlamp system includes the SCM, the EMIC, the TIPM, and the left (lighting) multi-function switch on the steering column. The headlamp bulbs have a path to ground at all times through their connection to the engine compartment wire harness. The engine compartment harness has takeouts with eyelet terminals that are secured by nuts to ground studs on the front end sheet metal within the engine compartment. The TIPM will store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) for any shorts or opens in the headlamp circuits.

The SCM monitors a hard wired multiplex input to determine the status of the left multi-function switch and whether the headlamp high or low beams are selected. The SCM then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp switch and headlamp beam select switch status messages to the EMIC over the LIN data bus. The EMIC then sends the appropriate electronic headlamp and headlamp beam request messages to the TIPM over the CAN data bus. The TIPM responds to these messages by providing a pulse width modulated voltage output to the headlamps through high side drivers on the right and left low and high beam feed circuits to illuminate the selected headlamp filaments. The TIPM also sends the appropriate electronic messages to the EMIC to control the illumination of the high beam indicator. When the optical horn feature is selected, the low beams will shut OFF about 200 milliseconds after the high beams are activated.

The TIPM also remembers which beams (LOW or HIGH) were selected when the headlamps were last turned OFF, and energizes those beams again the next time the headlamps are turned ON. The TIPM provides a battery saver (load shedding) feature for the headlamps, which will turn these lamps OFF if they are left ON for more than about eight minutes with the ignition switch in the LOCK position. The SCM and the EMIC each provide a fail-safe feature for the headlamps, which will cause the TIPM to turn the low beam headlamps ON automatically if there is no input available from the left multi-function switch. The TIPM also provides a fail-safe feature for the headlamps that will turn the headlamps ON automatically whenever a loss of CAN bus communication is detected with the ignition switch in the ON position.

Each headlamp includes an integral adjustment screw (domestic markets) or screws (export markets) to be used for static aiming of the headlamps."

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Last edited by chasinternet; 01-16-2010 at 03:02 AM.
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-16-2010, 06:09 AM
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Another option would be an AEV Procal. This allows you to adjust the DRL settings. You can turn them off, modulate the highs, modulate the lows or even modulate the factory fog lights if you have them. He could change it to modulate the low beams and I doubt anybody would be the wiser in Canada.

http://www.aev-conversions.com/products/procal_module/

It's on my short list of gadgets I want because it allows you to turn off the incredibly annoying (to me) "One Touch Lane Change Mode" on the turn signals. Wow, do I hate that feature.

Or we could see if the interior high beam activation switch is multiplexed. The relay isn't likely to draw too much current through it, but it still wouldn't be my first choice of a trigger source for the relay.

What pain in the neck for our friends in the north...

Regards, Tim

Last edited by Timbo2000; 01-16-2010 at 06:15 AM.
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-18-2010, 07:52 PM
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You might try using 2 relays

I was frustrated with the DRL on my previous Canadian Jeep when I connected the aux lights so I came up with this approach. I used 2 relays so that the aux lights light with the high beams only when the parking lights are on. I triggered the first relay off of the parking lights to switch the highbeam to the output. The second relay triggered off of the output from relay 1 (highbeam voltage)and switched the battery to the aux lights. This setup allows the aux lights to trigger off the highbeam switch only when the parking lights are on and not during daytime driving when DRLs are active.

So for relay #1
Light switch in the off position - DRLs off, No voltage out
Light switch in the off position - DRLs on, No voltage out
Parking lights on, low beam active - No voltage out
Parking lights on, DRLs on - PWM out
Parking lights on, highbeams on, highbeam voltage out


Relay #2

Highbeam voltage from relay 1, battery voltage out
PWM from relay #1, Relay 2 buzzes, aux lights on

NOTE: If the multifunction switch in set to parking lights only and the DRLs are active (you are driving), Relay #2 will buzz and the aux lights will light. This did not bother me since I switched right past the parking light only mode when driving and/or never drove with only parking lights.

Diodes and capacitors remain a must.

(in the event that your aux lights are "off road only", you can easily simply run a switched 12V input to relay #1 in place of the parking light input)
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post #9 of 10 Old 01-22-2010, 11:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Timbo2000 View Post
Another option would be an AEV Procal. This allows you to adjust the DRL settings.
Thank you! I have one and forgot all about AEV Procal doing that! I ran some experiments and now I am trying to find out why putting a relay on the high beam line is so frowned upon. I did a lot of checking - works great and comparing measurements with my test equipment show no effect when the relay is in the system.

The Canadian DRL is just ~2.6volts ~18.5% Duty Cycle - too small to trip or chatter my automotive relay.

I still plan on getting a PAC TR7 - the week got away from me and never went to the local store. I should of ordered it online, would be here already - LOL.

I have posted some info and my questions in a new thread:
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=22065

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post #10 of 10 Old 01-29-2010, 10:29 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Guys .. Great info. I think the 2 relay idea with the parking light highbeam combination will do the trick. Either that or a toggle switch to just shut off the feed while DRL is on.

Jeff _(OllllllO)_



08 Black and Khaki JK Sahara Unlimited, Dual Tops, MyGig, Tow pkg, Trax-Lok Rear Diff,
Mods -- 3.5" Rock Krawler front springs, 2.5 TerraFlex BB rear, Mopar D44HD/J8, OX Locker, RCVs, 37x12.50x17 Pitbull Rockers on ProComp 7069, AEV Premium front bumper, Smittybilt X2O 12K Comp winch.
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