That rats nest of wires would drive me nuts.
Time to put an SPod on your Christmas list.
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler
Haha a spod will be on my Christmas list for sure. Yea they are in tubing and zip tied now. I have the light bar on the black switch, windshield mounts on the blue one, and the 55w guys on one under the steering wheel. 2 circuits have a fuse and the light bar has a circuit breaker. She ain't pretty but I did it myself.
Running the same colour wires would drive me a little batty as well. Take the time to have equivalent gauge black wire for your ground with a coloured wire. Saves a headache later on. I read you put a shield around each set of wires I believe, which would be great. Another tip for lights is to eliminate the pigtales on your lights. Wire it direct. Corrosion happens and in different geographical locations this can be worse than others. Connect direct to the light itself and you will save yourself some wiring issues, hotspots, etc. Fuse each relay and put a small fuse on your switch always as close to the battery as possible.
Relays are fine instead of spod. Spod makes it easier but more expensive. I don't ever plan for an spod. Fuses, relays etc. Is what your jeep comes with. Your learning about how to do it correctly which is great. Keep going and it is ok to go without spod with the plans you have.
usmcdoc14 took the time to write up most or all of what you need to know: https://www.jkowners.com/tech/electrical/
Suggest reading through all of this and understanding it before you smell smoke. FIRE BAD!
If that's too much to ask, here are some quick bullshit numbers with safety factor added in:
These numbers have a safety factor in them, but at this point you seem to be best off with these numbers.
- Your 55W lights are drawing ~5 amps each
- If you have 100W lights, they are drawing - let's just call it 10 amps each
So, a 30 amp relay can run 5 55W lights or 3 100W lights with little extra room for comfort.
I would seriously consider putting all your lights on relays. That way the wires going into your cab are only carrying a couple of amps each.
Good on ya' for doing it yourself, but now it's time to revise your system to greatly reduce the chance of fire. FIRE BAD!
We're not fucking with you when we say you're risking burning your shit to the ground. Please take heed. Time to safety up!
EDIT: all those extra lights are too ~Tijuana for my taste, but to each his own. The wiring on the other hand - Dude, no
Good info. A little harsh but he is right, we don't want to see something bad happen.*
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler
Alright so this is the setup that is recommended? My question is the switch that is run to the relay and then to the fuse block, does that have to be turned on before any other can be run? Also what amperage amount should to relay running the 500W circuit be. As well as the black wire running from the distributor block to the M9 is a hot wire correct? Some of the larger concepts here are getting by me due to forgetting 8th grade circuitry.
You don't need to run to the m9 for power. I run directly from positive terminal of my battery. My winch and lights run off the second set of terminals on my exide deep cycle gel cell. Far worth the money over a SPOD IMO.
SO KEEP IT SIMPLE Black is always ground not a positive or hot wire as you say. I would recommend running the negative wire directly to the battery. Every time a ground is to the frame you run the risk of having interference with your radio so big draws run a proper ground back to the battery. If you do have interference when playing the stereo switch on different items to find the cause. It can be a grounded switch. If so a fix can be running the switch ground to the battery as well.
FYI I run power from the high beam circuit on the jeep headlights to the switches then switch to relay and the relay is grounded. I connect the relay ground directly to the battery to avoid cause of interference with the radio as mentioned. Now if I want all lights off I switch off my lights. If I just go to low beam all other lights will turn off. This meets most states and provinces vehicle safety regulations.
Only other tip I can provide is proper gauge wire depends on amperage and distance. Bigger amps will need bigger wire. Further distance of the wiring the larger the gauge of wire needed. So a 100 watt light with 5 ft of wire will need a heavier gauge wire than a 100w light with 2 feet of wiring for example. Google it.
And nice work. Shoot another pic when done.