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post #1 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 11:17 AM Thread Starter
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How I Setup my Lights

First things first this is not the best way to install lights, just how I did it. I recently put 4 lights on my front bumper, 2 windshield mounted lights, and 5 on a light bar.

The first 2 were on the far side of the front bumper, cruddy learn the basics 55w halogen navigators.

Next I Hooked up the windshield mount lights. I ran the wire sort of behind the mount plate and unscrewed the two pieces at the crease of the hood and the base of the windshield a bit to slide the wires inside (looks pretty awful because you can see the wires). For this circuit I didn't use a fuse originally and put one in withn the next few days for safety. I put in a 15 amp fuse between the wire going from the battery to the switch, closer to the battery side. I forget which wires went into where on the relay and with edit this when my Jeep is back and I can be positive about it.

For the light bar I used a circuit breaker and 30 amp relay from Napa. I again will check to be sure how I wired them and edit in order to ensure I get it right. I realize I probably should have just waited to post this at this point but I have typed too much and just deleting all this would ruin my day. Here are some pictures.

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post #2 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 12:13 PM
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That rats nest of wires would drive me nuts.
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post #3 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 01:49 PM
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Time to put an SPod on your Christmas list.
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post #4 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 01:58 PM
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My OCD is pegged. 1+ on the SPOD
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post #5 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 03:07 PM
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That scares me ! Glad you posted that the disclaimer that this isnt the best way to wire lights !

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post #6 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 04:02 PM
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Looks as though you wired all of these new lights onto a single switch and added no inline fuse? Nope, nothin dangerous about *that* ...

One thing you will learn if you use these lights for anything longer than a few seconds at a time is that you ALWAYS want to over-engineer anything that as to do with your electrical systems.

I get that you're a college kid on a budget, but soon you're gonna be a college kid on a budget wondering how he's gonna get his Jeep puddle to class.


God thing you took all that advice you got to heart...
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=204729

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post #7 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 05:44 PM Thread Starter
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Haha a spod will be on my Christmas list for sure. Yea they are in tubing and zip tied now. I have the light bar on the black switch, windshield mounts on the blue one, and the 55w guys on one under the steering wheel. 2 circuits have a fuse and the light bar has a circuit breaker. She ain't pretty but I did it myself.
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post #8 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 08:11 PM
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Good on ya for doing it yourself.

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post #9 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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post #10 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 10:14 PM
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Don't let these buttholes get to you, man! If not for the sPod, most of these guys would be driving their own fire hazard Jeeps!

At least you did it yourself. The only way people learn to do a better job is to try, fail, try again, and succeed! We'll call this your fail phase of that cycle.

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post #11 of 22 Old 08-17-2014, 10:48 PM
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OP,

usmcdoc14 took the time to write up most or all of what you need to know: https://www.jkowners.com/tech/electrical/
Suggest reading through all of this and understanding it before you smell smoke. FIRE BAD!


If that's too much to ask, here are some quick bullshit numbers with safety factor added in:
  • Your 55W lights are drawing ~5 amps each
  • If you have 100W lights, they are drawing - let's just call it 10 amps each
These numbers have a safety factor in them, but at this point you seem to be best off with these numbers.
So, a 30 amp relay can run 5 55W lights or 3 100W lights with little extra room for comfort.

I would seriously consider putting all your lights on relays. That way the wires going into your cab are only carrying a couple of amps each.

Good on ya' for doing it yourself, but now it's time to revise your system to greatly reduce the chance of fire. FIRE BAD!

We're not fucking with you when we say you're risking burning your shit to the ground. Please take heed. Time to safety up!


EDIT: all those extra lights are too ~Tijuana for my taste, but to each his own. The wiring on the other hand - Dude, no

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Last edited by ExWrench; 08-17-2014 at 11:04 PM.
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post #12 of 22 Old 08-18-2014, 03:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler View Post
Haha a spod will be on my Christmas list for sure. Yea they are in tubing and zip tied now. I have the light bar on the black switch, windshield mounts on the blue one, and the 55w guys on one under the steering wheel. 2 circuits have a fuse and the light bar has a circuit breaker. She ain't pretty but I did it myself.
I am glad I read all the posts. I was going to recommend insulation for the wires but I see you added it. I always go over board when doing wiring. I normally run my wires, then wrap them in electrical tape then put the tubing over them and periodically secure the tubing with more tape. I also use heat shrink connectors. Like you, I was starting to develop a rats nest of wires under my hood and dropped the $$ for the SPOD, makes life much easier.

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post #13 of 22 Old 08-18-2014, 07:54 AM Thread Starter
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I guess some fine tuning is on deck. I'll work on it and get back to you guys, I just needed to get them running before my fishing trip.

ExWrench - The only light not on a relay is the 55w pair, the bar is on a big relay from Napa and the windshield is on a 30 amp relay from AutoZone.
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post #14 of 22 Old 08-18-2014, 08:59 AM
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I thought that your named sounded familiar.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #15 of 22 Old 08-20-2014, 11:29 AM Thread Starter
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Alright so this is the setup that is recommended? My question is the switch that is run to the relay and then to the fuse block, does that have to be turned on before any other can be run? Also what amperage amount should to relay running the 500W circuit be. As well as the black wire running from the distributor block to the M9 is a hot wire correct? Some of the larger concepts here are getting by me due to forgetting 8th grade circuitry.
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post #16 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 09:33 AM
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Originally Posted by warriorwrangler View Post


Alright so this is the setup that is recommended? My question is the switch that is run to the relay and then to the fuse block, does that have to be turned on before any other can be run? Also what amperage amount should to relay running the 500W circuit be. As well as the black wire running from the distributor block to the M9 is a hot wire correct? Some of the larger concepts here are getting by me due to forgetting 8th grade circuitry.
That's how mine is setup up. What relay do you have between the battery and fuseblock?

The M9 fuse is a heated seats power so it should only have power with ignition on. You are using the M9 through the distribution block to close the relay and allow power to go from the battery to the fuse block to the relay and then to the lights.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #17 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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I still have my old setup I just want to make sure I have the diagram down before fixing everything. So I don't have a relay for that yet, I guess it depends on the size of the fuse block? Or is it how many watts worth of accessories are being run?
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post #18 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 10:31 AM
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You don't need a relay between the battery and the fuse block nor do you need a relay between the m9 fuse and the distribution block.

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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #19 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 12:02 PM Thread Starter
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Okay cool cause I didn't see that in your original diagram, I guess the only questions before I get to work this weekend are does there need to be grounding wires on the purchased fuse block for every accessory, and what size wire should be used throughout to be safe? Uncle Sam you have been an unreal amount of help and I appreciate it.
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post #20 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 01:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler View Post
Okay cool cause I didn't see that in your original diagram, I guess the only questions before I get to work this weekend are does there need to be grounding wires on the purchased fuse block for every accessory, and what size wire should be used throughout to be safe? Uncle Sam you have been an unreal amount of help and I appreciate it.
No because you are grounding each relay and each light separately.

Quote:
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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #21 of 22 Old 08-21-2014, 01:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redrockjeepin View Post
That rats nest of wires would drive me nuts.
Quote:
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Time to put an SPod on your Christmas list.
Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler View Post
Haha a spod will be on my Christmas list for sure. Yea they are in tubing and zip tied now. I have the light bar on the black switch, windshield mounts on the blue one, and the 55w guys on one under the steering wheel. 2 circuits have a fuse and the light bar has a circuit breaker. She ain't pretty but I did it myself.
Running the same colour wires would drive me a little batty as well. Take the time to have equivalent gauge black wire for your ground with a coloured wire. Saves a headache later on. I read you put a shield around each set of wires I believe, which would be great. Another tip for lights is to eliminate the pigtales on your lights. Wire it direct. Corrosion happens and in different geographical locations this can be worse than others. Connect direct to the light itself and you will save yourself some wiring issues, hotspots, etc. Fuse each relay and put a small fuse on your switch always as close to the battery as possible.

Relays are fine instead of spod. Spod makes it easier but more expensive. I don't ever plan for an spod. Fuses, relays etc. Is what your jeep comes with. Your learning about how to do it correctly which is great. Keep going and it is ok to go without spod with the plans you have.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ExWrench View Post
OP,

usmcdoc14 took the time to write up most or all of what you need to know: https://www.jkowners.com/tech/electrical/
Suggest reading through all of this and understanding it before you smell smoke. FIRE BAD!


If that's too much to ask, here are some quick bullshit numbers with safety factor added in:
  • Your 55W lights are drawing ~5 amps each
  • If you have 100W lights, they are drawing - let's just call it 10 amps each
These numbers have a safety factor in them, but at this point you seem to be best off with these numbers.
So, a 30 amp relay can run 5 55W lights or 3 100W lights with little extra room for comfort.

I would seriously consider putting all your lights on relays. That way the wires going into your cab are only carrying a couple of amps each.

Good on ya' for doing it yourself, but now it's time to revise your system to greatly reduce the chance of fire. FIRE BAD!

We're not fucking with you when we say you're risking burning your shit to the ground. Please take heed. Time to safety up!


EDIT: all those extra lights are too ~Tijuana for my taste, but to each his own. The wiring on the other hand - Dude, no
Good info. A little harsh but he is right, we don't want to see something bad happen.*

Quote:
Originally Posted by warriorwrangler View Post


Alright so this is the setup that is recommended? My question is the switch that is run to the relay and then to the fuse block, does that have to be turned on before any other can be run? Also what amperage amount should to relay running the 500W circuit be. As well as the black wire running from the distributor block to the M9 is a hot wire correct? Some of the larger concepts here are getting by me due to forgetting 8th grade circuitry.
You don't need to run to the m9 for power. I run directly from positive terminal of my battery. My winch and lights run off the second set of terminals on my exide deep cycle gel cell. Far worth the money over a SPOD IMO.
SO KEEP IT SIMPLE Black is always ground not a positive or hot wire as you say. I would recommend running the negative wire directly to the battery. Every time a ground is to the frame you run the risk of having interference with your radio so big draws run a proper ground back to the battery. If you do have interference when playing the stereo switch on different items to find the cause. It can be a grounded switch. If so a fix can be running the switch ground to the battery as well.
FYI I run power from the high beam circuit on the jeep headlights to the switches then switch to relay and the relay is grounded. I connect the relay ground directly to the battery to avoid cause of interference with the radio as mentioned. Now if I want all lights off I switch off my lights. If I just go to low beam all other lights will turn off. This meets most states and provinces vehicle safety regulations.

Only other tip I can provide is proper gauge wire depends on amperage and distance. Bigger amps will need bigger wire. Further distance of the wiring the larger the gauge of wire needed. So a 100 watt light with 5 ft of wire will need a heavier gauge wire than a 100w light with 2 feet of wiring for example. Google it.

And nice work. Shoot another pic when done.

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Last edited by JeepUpKeep37s; 08-21-2014 at 02:37 PM.
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post #22 of 22 Old 08-22-2014, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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And nice work. Shoot another pic when done.[/QUOTE]

That ^

I am going to run through the m9 fuse just in case my knee or hand hits a light switch on the way out during the day. Another reason is it just looks cleaner when there aren't 5 surplus connection coming out of the battery making under my hood look like a wonky subway map.

I didn't use a pig tail in any of my circuits they are all heat sealed connections.

Just to clarify when you say fuse the relay. I have my fuses (and one circuit breaker) on the connection between the switch and the relay close to the battery. That is proper location to keep the FIRE out of the cab correct?
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