making sure I'm wireing led offroad lights correct - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 02:23 AM Thread Starter
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making sure I'm wireing led offroad lights correct

Ok so I'm going to wire up my lightbar, 2 pods on front bumper and 2 pods on rear bumper, each set will be on a different switch so a total of 3 switches and they are all led
I'm trying to wire it the cleanest way possible so here's wat I've got

Positive batterey to aftermarket fuse block and ground fuse block

Each fuse goes to a separate relay

Each relay is grounded and hot wire goes to lights and another goes to switches

And then each switch is grounded

Does this sound right and the easiest/cleanest way?
Here's a little diagram I drew up if it makes sense lol
Thanks in advance

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post #2 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 06:19 AM
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much better.
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post #3 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
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Lol thanks I'm a noon to all this
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post #4 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 10:52 AM
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look in here.


https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=58022

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #5 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 10:53 AM
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Yes but remember the negative is not a true grounding to the system and you should use a separate location to ground your fuse block, relays, and switches. People often don't think this is a big deal but it is the most common cause of an electrical fire.
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post #6 of 8 Old 05-29-2014, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by ajpboss90 View Post
Yes but remember the negative is not a true grounding to the system and you should use a separate location to ground your fuse block, relays, and switches. People often don't think this is a big deal but it is the most common cause of an electrical fire.
What are you talking about? A Jeep isn't a house or a building with dozens or hundreds feet between Earth ground points. There is no "Earth" ground on a vehicle; it has a floating ground. So there is no difference in ground potential due to variations in conductivity to "Earth" over distance.

With the exception of the doors, tailgate hatch and bumpers, all metal parts of the vehicle are essentially one large conductor at the same ground potential. The size of the conductor between the battery ground, chassis, frame, engine and generator guarantees this, and a large, braided ground strap adds the hood to this collective "ground reference." So the only difference in ground between the battery and the rearmost part of the frame is caused by wire resistance, and the frame is a pretty freaking big wire, so it would give you LESS resistance (and thus less difference in ground potential) than any size wire you might reasonably run.

If you have information to the contrary, post it up. Otherwise, don't instill confusion and concern by spouting nonsense.

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post #7 of 8 Old 06-02-2014, 06:34 PM
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as long as those relays are wired up correctly, should work fine.

Agreed on the grounding issue, or lack of. As long as your ground hits bare metal with sufficient connectivity, i.e. minimal resistance, anywhere Bump mentioned will work.

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post #8 of 8 Old 07-03-2014, 11:02 AM
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sPOD

I've gotta say - I'll never add lights to a rig again without the use of an sPOD! It cleans up all the nonsense wiring, additional fuses, relays, etc. One stop shop for all your electrical trouble shooting too...

VERY easy to install and an excellent Product that will host up to 6 different systems (Lights, Winch, Lockers, ect...)

No Brainer in my book... it would be money well spent!!!
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