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post #1 of 56 Old 05-22-2014, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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50" LED Lightbar comparison

With the countless companies coming out with LED light bars has there been any comparisons?

We've seen the light bars for $200 and seen some over $1000.

It's no longer you get what you pay for, because the competition is pretty damn close.

I get the whole made in America bullshit. Amen! 'Merica! LOL!!! Says the guy with guns from Austria and living in a house built probably by illegal immigrants and works for a company that's worldwide.

Getting to the point...who has the best bang for the buck LED Lightbar?

What makes a $1000 Lightbar better than let's say a $400 Lightbar that was built in China,but sold from an American retailer?

lets here it.... Who's the best and more importantly WHY?

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post #2 of 56 Old 05-22-2014, 06:21 PM
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I haven't a clue as to who's the best...plus to subjective but I've used these and IMO quality is good enough for my use.

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post #3 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 08:26 AM
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This is my two cents on the matter. I don't know if I necessarily agree that that low buck light bars are on par with the name brand bars, but mostly that's a matter of opinion. That said if you're thinking about buying one, I'd get the question out of the way, are you buying it for the cool factor or are you buying it because you're need a light to perform when you're off roading at night.

From what I've observed and learned in my research (last year I was thinking of getting a 40" to put on my Gobi) there is a difference in the components used in the lights (LED's, circuit boards, processors, etc.), their construction (lens that I speak to) and optics. To a lesser extent there is country of manufacture, warranty, or even the company selling marketing the lights.

Many companies market their lights as using Cree LED's since it's a globally recognized name, but not all Cree LED's are equal as there hundreds, if not thousands of different Cree LED models of varying degrees of size, quality, brightness. Most, if not all the import light bars are very vague on the what Cree LED's are being used in their products as is Rigid, but if Rigid's defense they're the most heavily counterfeited lighting product out there so I can see why they're vague. From what I can tell, the higher end companies use either CREE XM-L2 T6 Bin LED or CREE XP-G2 LED in their light bars. I know Baja Designs uses these and if what I've read is accurate so does Rigid (someone somewhere was able to pry some information out of someone at Rigid since they are known to be notoriously secretive).

With regards to lenses, you want to stay away from any lights that use a tempered glass lens and only look for something with a polycarbonate lens as it'll resist cracking and shattering.

Aside from the quality of the LED's the optics which dictate the beam pattern of a light are probably the single most important thing that will impact the projection of light. If you're looking for a lighting product to really use as intended, this in my opinion is the single most important factor to consider when trying to decide on a light. In narrower the beam pattern the greater the distance the light should project. The wider the pattern, the shorter the distance. That's kind of an over simplification, but you should get the idea. The narrower the pattern the longer the light throw and less likely you're going to over drive the light (unless you're driving baja fast). The wider the pattern the shorter the throw and you're more likely to over drive the the light.

The image below should give you an idea of what types of lights to place where, not to push a brand.


As for country of manufacture those lines are so blurred that it isn't as relevant as it once was. The only LED product that I know for fact is 100% made in the US with 100% US sourced components is Baja Designs. Rigid, if I understand correctly is made in the US with components sourced from foreign and domestic sources. VisionX, kick ass lights, made in Korea. As for any of the Chinese imports, like anything it's hit or miss. Not all Chinese factories pump out the same quality products. My advice, if something is stupidly cheap, there is a reason for it being so and maybe steer clear of it. Just my 2 cents based on a long history of rolling the dice and getting burned 100% of the time.

The warranty a company provides is only as good as the company standing behind it. Many companies are slapping lifetime warranties on their lighting products, if that is a concern for your, read through the fine print and ask questions with company representative. Again, if it's a concern, buy from a company that will stand behind the product in the event you do have a problem, you don't want to be left with an expensive paper weight.

Sorry for being so wordy but hopefully I was able to provide some useful information for you to think about in your decision making process.

Sure my rig has seen the trail, but I wheel it like a soccer mom looking for a parking spot at Nordstroms.
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post #4 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 09:18 AM
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There are several factors to consider when purchasing an LED bar and kkuntz01 touched on many of them.

One thing you will see advertised is the wattage of the LEDs used. Rigid uses a 3 watt LED in their E series and a 5 watt LED in their SR series. Baja Designs uses 5 watt LEDs in their Stealth, and 10 watts in their OnX and Squadron XL lights. What does the wattage mean to you the consumer? It depends on the light manufacturer. The biggest thing that a higher watt LED means is more lumens per LED, which for manufacturers gives them the ability to create a larger optic with more control and throw from the LED (3 watt LED will never have the throw of a 5 watt LED, which will never have the throw of a 10 watt LED, which can have the throw of a HID light).

Most LED manufacturers advertised the rated wattage of the bulb from the LED manufacturer. The manufacturers will also give the power consumption of a light in amps, and from this you can tell how much power they are actually feeding to the LED lights. To keep things simple we will compare the power draw of a 10" BD Stealth and a 10" Rigid SR.

Baja Designs uses a 10 5 watt LEDs, and uses 42 watts of power. This means the light is using 4.2 watts per LED. Rigid is using 10 5 watt LEDs but is drawing 3.5 watts per LED. This plays directly into the amount of light from the bars since each LED manufacturer claims maximum brightness from an LED at full power.

So letís takes this back to light output. Baja Designs claims 4300 lumens (as per Cree at 5 watts per LED) but we are using 84% power. This means my actual output might be closer to 3,612 lumens before optics and the lens take light away. Rigid claims 3,750 lumens (as per their LED manufacturer) and is at 70% power so actual light output is probably closer to 2,625 lumens.

If we look at price per lumens that puts Baja Designs (with wiring harness to make it apples to apples) at $383.95 (I included the on/off harness since that is all that Rigid can do). Baja Designs is producing 9.04 lumens per dollar. Rigid is at $299.99, and is at 8.75 lumens per dollar. This means that even though Rigid may appear to be the better value (a 10" light bar is a 10" light bar) in reality you are getting less light in quantity per dollar.

You might ask yourself why a company wouldn't want to drive their LEDs at full power to get maximum brightness out of them, and it comes down to heat management. If you can't get the heat from the LED circuit board to the heat sink you need to start reducing power. Baja Designs uses copper core boards to move heat from the LED to the circuit board, and it is a much more efficient heat transfer. From there they use a thermal pad to move the heat from the board to the aluminum heat sink. Then they anodize the heat sink which costs more over powder coating, but powder coating will trap heat. These are all things that I have yet to see another light company advertise, or do in order to get more light.

The other factor to consider is the quality for the money. How many posts have you read about Rigids having moisture in them? How many times have you seen someone want to change the optics or lens of a Rigid, and they need to send it back and pay Rigid money to change things? I have yet to see these issues with Baja Designs. In fact they are concerned enough about moisture wicking up the cable they have changed cable designs, and I had them swap out my cable. You might say what did BD charge for this since Rigid would probably charge $100 or more to replace a cable? I paid shipping to get my lights there, and examined, and rebuilt under the lifetime warranty. Was this warranty work? Technically no since there wasnít any moisture, but BD has been very proactive with any potential issues, and they have always welcomed sending a light in for inspection because it gives them real world feedback on their lights.

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post #5 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 09:55 AM
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Here is a spreadsheet comparing the name brand LED bars where I could find lumens, wattage of the LEDs, and other items to be able to get an accurate apples to apples comparison of the lumens you are going to get vs. the money you are going to spend. The Lifetime LED came out on top by a long shot, and they are also showing the most efficient bar. At the same time if something sounds too good to be true, it probably is. I would guess that they have poor heat management, and are hoping to be out of business before you need to take advantage of their warranty (that is probably non-existant). Other than Lifetime Baja Designs came out on top with Rigid next, and Vision X in the end.

Many of the Chinese imports don't give you enough information to make an educated comparison on lumens per $ since you don't know the LED chip they are using (color, wattage), or the efficiency they are driving the lights at. Also the efficiency isn't 100% accurate as you will see in the OnX comparison because there are LED controllers in the bars that eat a few watts, but not much. It ended up putting the light a little above 100% power, but since I did all the other lights this way it is still a fair comparison.
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post #6 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 11:52 AM
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Our 50" dual row light bars (imported) use 3W Cree LEDs (288W total power), and are rated at a raw lumen output of 21120. I don't have the tools to measure the actual output of the lights though. The LEDs used are Cree-XBD-R3/R2 with a color output of 6000K.

Our single row bars use 10W Cree LEDs (240W) and are rated at a raw lumen output of 21600. These output a little more light with a lower power consumption due to the 10W LEDs. they also have a longer throw than the dual row 3W bars. I will get the model for these LEDs, I don't have it off hand.

I think best bang for your buck is going to be an imported light bar. yes you can get higher quality bars, but that's not really best bang for your buck, its paying top dollar for top quality, which definitely is important sometimes, just depends on your preference.


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post #7 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 12:43 PM
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I would question why you want a 50" bar. If its for looks then go with the cheaper chinese bars. If its to see, do you really need a 50" bar? Here is a BD 15" bar vs a 40" Rigid bar. As you can see it isn't about size (please feel free to run with that), but about optics and power to the LEDs. You can have more light, and projection from a 15" bar than a 40" bar.


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post #8 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 02:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
I would question why you want a 50" bar. If its for looks then go with the cheaper chinese bars. If its to see, do you really need a 50" bar? Here is a BD 15" bar vs a 40" Rigid bar. As you can see it isn't about size (please feel free to run with that), but about optics and power to the LEDs. You can have more light, and projection from a 15" bar than a 40" bar.





This type of info is what the people want! A comparison...Clearly there is a winner in that picture.



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post #9 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 02:44 PM
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This type of info is what the people want! A comparison...Clearly there is a winner in that picture.



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I've got their 8" Onx bar in patter pattern and feel the coverage is great for the size. I actually thought it put out more light than my Truck-Lite Headlights.

I just ordered their 20" Stealth light bar in Spot pattern along with their wide cornering reflectors to convert the light to a combo pattern if I feel the spot is too narrow. For giggles too, I picked up the wide corning lens convert my 8" Onx from a combo pattern. I figured for $10 it can't hurt to have on tap depending on where I'm going what I'm doing.

Sure my rig has seen the trail, but I wheel it like a soccer mom looking for a parking spot at Nordstroms.
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post #10 of 56 Old 05-23-2014, 03:00 PM
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Hey guys! I'm Paul, in Product Development for Diode Dynamics, new vendor here. I design LED circuits and bulbs all day.

Lots of great info here! Just a couple points I'd like to add on:
Quote:
Originally Posted by kkuntz01 View Post
if what I've read is accurate so does Rigid (someone somewhere was able to pry some information out of someone at Rigid since they are known to be notoriously secretive).
Not sure why it would be considered secretive. It's printed right on the PCB! And you can easily determine what LED it is just by looking at it. Rigid uses all Philips LEDs for their newer products, not CREE. Binning though, not so sure. It's extremely unlikely any company uses high-end bins because they cost 2-3x the average bins, and just aren't necessary.
Quote:
The only LED product that I know for fact is 100% made in the US with 100% US sourced components is Baja Designs.
Bulldog LED, newer company, is 100% sourced and made in USA too.
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My advice, if something is stupidly cheap, there is a reason for it being so and maybe steer clear of it.
Bingo! There are SO many places to cut corners in electronics manufacturing.
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The warranty a company provides is only as good as the company standing behind it. Many companies are slapping lifetime warranties on their lighting products, if that is a concern for your, read through the fine print and ask questions with company representative.
Exactly- anyone can claim to have a lifetime warranty... read REVIEWS about their warranty process first.
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Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
Most LED manufacturers advertised the rated wattage of the bulb from the LED manufacturer. The manufacturers will also give the power consumption of a light in amps, and from this you can tell how much power they are actually feeding to the LED lights. To keep things simple we will compare the power draw of a 10" BD Stealth and a 10" Rigid SR.
Unfortunately, the assumptions and calculations you've done are not accurate. There are diminishing returns as you increase power. Flux is not linearly related to current. If an LED produces 100 lumens at 3W, it does not produce 50 lumens at 1.5W. For example, see the Relative Flux vs Current graph here (pdf)

The only way to get accurate figures is by proper testing, because light is also lost before it leaves the bar.


Now if you could only combine good optics and LEDs, and quality assembly, while taking advantage of cost savings from the generic housings...

Paul

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I really like where this thread is going. A lot of great info.
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post #12 of 56 Old 05-27-2014, 08:08 AM
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Not sure why it would be considered secretive. It's printed right on the PCB! And you can easily determine what LED it is just by looking at it. Rigid uses all Philips LEDs for their newer products, not CREE. Binning though, not so sure. It's extremely unlikely any company uses high-end bins because they cost 2-3x the average bins, and just aren't necessary.
Baja Designs is the only company that I have seen that will tell you exactly what bin their LEDs come from. For 10 watt LEDs they are using Cree XM-L2 T6 Bin LED at 5000k. I know they published the bin for their 5 watt LEDs, but I don't remember those off the top of my head.

Quote:
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Unfortunately, the assumptions and calculations you've done are not accurate. There are diminishing returns as you increase power. Flux is not linearly related to current. If an LED produces 100 lumens at 3W, it does not produce 50 lumens at 1.5W. For example, see the Relative Flux vs Current graph here (pdf)
You are correct, but without the proper tools, and many companies not publishing how much they power they are driving the LEDs at, and how much power is being used by the drivers, the average consumer doesn't have much to go on. I haven't seen anyone doing a dissassembly of an LED and actually measure this from one company to the next, and publish the information in a public forum.

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The only way to get accurate figures is by proper testing, because light is also lost before it leaves the bar.


Now if you could only combine good optics and LEDs, and quality assembly, while taking advantage of cost savings from the generic housings...

Paul
I wish that someone would do a testing of many LED bars of a given length so that we could do a good test (similar to the headlight shootout done on JKO). I would be OK with something that does a test of a 10" BD Stealth, 8" BD OnX, 10" Rigid E/E2-Series, 10" SR2 Series, 11" Vision-X Xmitter Xtreme, and some of the less expensive options (Trail Worthy Fab, Lifetime LED, etc...). I have yet to see many companies willing to send out bars to do testing, and I don't have the money to buy the lights.

Jon

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post #13 of 56 Old 06-19-2014, 11:19 AM
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Hey JK Gang ,
For what it's worth, we'd love to be thrown in the mix here.

We have developed and sell a complete series of our SIRIUS LED lights. Our 50" Standard Series complete with wiring harness is just under $250 on Ebay right now. And you get the trust of working with a true powersports' company on this. We just sold 32 of these units to one of our dealers, and our electrical engineer has his name on a patent in the automotive lighting industry. So it's not $150, I know, but it is perhaps the best combination of price and value on the market today. Take a look at them here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIRIUS-50-Li...item56666103bb

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Or just head to our website to see all our lighting options, including our SIRIUS PRO HIGH INTENSITY Series. Plus we ship next day because we have hundreds of lights in inventory and are not shipping directly with China.


PM me with any questions. Thanks!
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post #14 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 02:21 PM
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Since some of the LED retailers.manufacturers are posting, why are you guys using 3 watt LEDs? 10>5>3 in wattage for LEDs, so this makes me wonder why you would be using LED technology that is several years old. Higher wattage bulbs means more light for a given quantity of LEDs.

Why can't you get a spot beam that is tighter than 20 degrees (if you can even get this tight). When it came to HID and halogen technology spot was 8-10 degrees, and driving was 15-20 degrees from most companies. A tighter beam pattern means more distance and throw from my LED lights, and this is the downfall from many LEDs.

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post #15 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 02:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
Since some of the LED retailers.manufacturers are posting, why are you guys using 3 watt LEDs? 10>5>3 in wattage for LEDs, so this makes me wonder why you would be using LED technology that is several years old. Higher wattage bulbs means more light for a given quantity of LEDs.

Why can't you get a spot beam that is tighter than 20 degrees (if you can even get this tight). When it came to HID and halogen technology spot was 8-10 degrees, and driving was 15-20 degrees from most companies. A tighter beam pattern means more distance and throw from my LED lights, and this is the downfall from many LEDs.
It's the efficacy of the LEDs that matters, not the wattage.

5W LEDs are several years old too. 3W LEDs are popular because they are very small, so you can pack a lot of them into a bar. And they're inexpensive, so you can get more lumens per dollar.

If you run the 5W LED at a higher potential (like you should if you paid more for 5W), you can't use as many, because they will generate more heat. There is no considerable advantage to using 5W in place of 3W, unless you can figure out how to dissipate twice as much heat. A 5W LED running at 2 actual watts will not be brighter than a 3W LED running at 2 actual watts. So you could use 5W LEDs, but in the end you're just paying more for the same brightness as 3W, or breaking even by using less LEDs, and getting the same effect.

16,000 real lumens (not rated or calculated, actual real lumens) from a quality, 96-LED CREE XB-D 50" light bar is plenty of light. That is nearly eight pairs of standard headlights.

Spot optics with an extremely tight throw (5 degrees or so) are not useful to most people. It's certainly possible to simply use an optic with that tight of a beam (for any companies that are using optics rather than simple reflectors) but it's just not useful. Our sponsored rally driver (racing through wooded gravel roads at 70+ MPH) used to use a Rigid hyperspot LED bar (very tight beam pattern) and said it was just too tight, it was like shining a flashlight into the distance and he didn't have any midrange light like he needed.

Paul

Last edited by Diode Dynamics; 06-20-2014 at 02:45 PM.
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post #16 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 04:00 PM
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It's the efficacy of the LEDs that matters, not the wattage.

5W LEDs are several years old too. 3W LEDs are popular because they are very small, so you can pack a lot of them into a bar. And they're inexpensive, so you can get more lumens per dollar.
Doesn't this also equate to smaller reflectors, and less efficiency from the reflector?

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If you run the 5W LED at a higher potential (like you should if you paid more for 5W), you can't use as many, because they will generate more heat. There is no considerable advantage to using 5W in place of 3W, unless you can figure out how to dissipate twice as much heat. A 5W LED running at 2 actual watts will not be brighter than a 3W LED running at 2 actual watts. So you could use 5W LEDs, but in the end you're just paying more for the same brightness as 3W, or breaking even by using less LEDs, and getting the same effect.
If you need to move heat, then why do many companies use aluminum core circuit boards, heat sinks that are designed to look good, but when run through air flow tests are shown to be very poor performers, and then they powder coat the sinks which will further keep heat inside the light? Wouldn't it make more sense to use copper boards, thermal compounds between the board and the sink, and anodizing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diode Dynamics View Post
16,000 real lumens (not rated or calculated, actual real lumens) from a quality, 96-LED CREE XB-D 50" light bar is plenty of light. That is nearly eight pairs of standard headlights.

Spot optics with an extremely tight throw (5 degrees or so) are not useful to most people. It's certainly possible to simply use an optic with that tight of a beam (for any companies that are using optics rather than simple reflectors) but it's just not useful. Our sponsored rally driver (racing through wooded gravel roads at 70+ MPH) used to use a Rigid hyperspot LED bar (very tight beam pattern) and said it was just too tight, it was like shining a flashlight into the distance and he didn't have any midrange light like he needed.

Paul
In my experience it is better to have more options for light (i.e. the ability to turn X number of lights off for slower and more technical areas, and the ability to have spots for higher speed sections. It is also important to be able to customize my beam pattern to fit the conditions. For example if I am doing a technical trail, or driving in inclement conditions I want a low and wide beam pattern, and if I am doing long stretches of gravel at 70+ I want more throw. To date I only know of two companies that allow me to change my beam pattern so the same lights will work in both situations, but in reality they should be mounted in different locations for best performance, leading to the more lights is better than one powerful LED bar.

Jon

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post #17 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 04:32 PM
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Doesn't this also equate to smaller reflectors, and less efficiency from the reflector?
No, a bigger reflector does not mean lower efficiency. (Efficiency is not the same as efficacy)
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If you need to move heat, then why do many companies use aluminum core circuit boards...
Those measures only get you so far. In the end, the size of the heatsink (surface area) is what seriously matters. The rest is cost-benefit analysis. Using a marginally better thermal compound is not going to make much of a difference. (I haven't seen anyone omitting it altogether...) ACPCB does a very good job and is not the "bottleneck" in heat transfer. The powdercoating is done to save cost over anodizing, and is extremely light- it is not the type of powdercoating you'd see on wheels or bicycle frames, etc. Only a few mils. If money's no object, you can certainly make it with all ideal components... how about a cooling system hooked into your radiator too?! or active cooling with fans? Most people want a light bar that works well for a reasonable cost, and in the end, it's the optics and reliability that really matter for performance.
Quote:
In my experience it is better to have more options for light...
Most people really don't have a need to constantly change optics. If you're a pro, you can easily use multiple shorter bars or dually-size lights to achieve on/off and spot/flood/driving options.
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post #18 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 09:36 PM
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No, a bigger reflector does not mean lower efficiency. (Efficiency is not the same as efficacy)

Those measures only get you so far. In the end, the size of the heatsink (surface area) is what seriously matters. The rest is cost-benefit analysis. Using a marginally better thermal compound is not going to make much of a difference. (I haven't seen anyone omitting it altogether...) ACPCB does a very good job and is not the "bottleneck" in heat transfer. The powdercoating is done to save cost over anodizing, and is extremely light- it is not the type of powdercoating you'd see on wheels or bicycle frames, etc. Only a few mils. If money's no object, you can certainly make it with all ideal components... how about a cooling system hooked into your radiator too?! or active cooling with fans? Most people want a light bar that works well for a reasonable cost, and in the end, it's the optics and reliability that really matter for performance.

Most people really don't have a need to constantly change optics. If you're a pro, you can easily use multiple shorter bars or dually-size lights to achieve on/off and spot/flood/driving options.
My limited experience with Baja Designs lights has shown me that as they went from a 3 watt many LED light to a 5 watt 10 LED light, and now a 10 watt 4 LED light the lumens have gone up slightly from one light to the next, but the increase in reflector size has also meant more control over the LED. This is a company who does all of these things that make an "ideal" light bar, but at the same time they are the ones pushing the boundaries in what you can do with an LED light.

As far as changing an optic I have done it before on the BD lights, and it really is a 5 minute job to go from a spot to a flood light, and with the press of a momentary switch I can go from full brightness to half brightness (ideal for fog, or inclement weather where I need more light, but not bright lights). I understand that there has to be a line between what people are willing to pay and what they get, but I see many people buying poor technology just because they see a low price on it.

The lights I am seeing from Rigid, and all of the knockoffs (including ones similar to what you make) are similar to the technology they were using around 2008-2009. In LED lights they are similar to computer technology. You can spend a bit more and get the latest technology, or you can save a few bucks and get something with technology a few years older, but in terms of technology (which LED lights are) I am one of those people who is willing to pay a bit more and get something much better. I would not buy a computer that was built in 2006 and try to tell people I am selling them the best computer, and blow smoke up their ass about the bargain they are getting (many LED manufacturers do this, even Rigid with their old outdated LED technology). I work in the computer industry and I do see a huge difference between what was sold in 2006 and today and the changes are even greater in the LED industry since 2009, so it is a relevant topic.

If I compare your 4 LED light that is $80 vs a BD one for $199 I go from 1,200 lumens to 3,150 lumens. I am also getting the ability to change to seven different beam patterns, and I am also getting something with a lifetime warranty (and I have put it to the test and had excellent service).

Since this thread was about what makes a $400 LED bar worse than a $1,000 or more LED bar if you are talking about 3 watt bars (Rigid and all the knock-offs) there isn't much of a difference. I have yet to see any American importer with their name on an LED bar other than TWF who has been in business under the same name for years and build a name for themselves. If you want a warranty this is important, and I would just save the money and go straight to the source.

If you want an LED bar that is going to have both quality optics, quality LEDs in both terms of color, binning, and longevity, and you want service, there is only one company worth throwing money at, and its Baja Designs. Everyone on this forum has been in love with Rigid for years, and I have been using BD lights since 2009 and I have sent lights back just to have them inspected, and upgraded to newer lens technology and I pay to ship the lights there ($13) and that is it.

Jon

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post #19 of 56 Old 06-20-2014, 09:43 PM
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Why are there so many words in this thread ?

just show me some pictures of your light of choice, output, mounting location and include the cost and... PLEASE inclue a picture to show me that they dont get condenstation in them !

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post #20 of 56 Old 06-21-2014, 01:18 PM Thread Starter
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Tell me again why this would be a bad choice?





$155 free shipping

http://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-3000...+led+light+bar

Description

Warranty:2 Year
Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of trucks,cars,and other vehicles.
Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.
Saving more energy, efficient and so on.
Glass surface is made of Quart Lens, it with high light transmission

Features:

LED Power:300W 30000LM
Operating Voltage: 10-30 DC
Waterproof rate: IP 67
100pcs*3w high intensity LEDS
Body Color: Black,Light Color: White
Color Temperature: 6000K
Materialiecast aluminum housing
Lens material:Toughed glass
Mounting Bracket: Alu firm bracket
30000 hours above life time
Beam:Flood beam pattern(60 degree), 30 degee spot beam optional
The total length is about 51 inch (130cm).

Fit For:

Indoor & Outdoor uses,Back up light,Off Road Lighting,Truck,Trailer Interior & Exterior Lighting,Construction Lighting,Garden, Backyard Lighting,Boat Lighting

Package included:
1 x 300w led spot flood combo light bar
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post #21 of 56 Old 06-22-2014, 01:10 AM
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It's a bad choice because the Engrish is bad?
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post #22 of 56 Old 06-23-2014, 03:57 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fleshharrower View Post
It's a bad choice because the Engrish is bad?
Huh?
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post #23 of 56 Old 06-23-2014, 09:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant211 View Post
Tell me again why this would be a bad choice?





$155 free shipping

http://www.amazon.com/Eyourlife-3000...+led+light+bar

Description

Warranty:2 Year
Wide operating voltage range: it can apply to different types of trucks,cars,and other vehicles.
Waterproof and anti-corrosion: it can in the rain or harsh environments.
Saving more energy, efficient and so on.
Glass surface is made of Quart Lens, it with high light transmission

Features:

LED Power:300W 30000LM
Operating Voltage: 10-30 DC
Waterproof rate: IP 67
100pcs*3w high intensity LEDS
Body Color: Black,Light Color: White
Color Temperature: 6000K
Materialiecast aluminum housing
Lens material:Toughed glass
Mounting Bracket: Alu firm bracket
30000 hours above life time
Beam:Flood beam pattern(60 degree), 30 degee spot beam optional
The total length is about 51 inch (130cm).

Fit For:

Indoor & Outdoor uses,Back up light,Off Road Lighting,Truck,Trailer Interior & Exterior Lighting,Construction Lighting,Garden, Backyard Lighting,Boat Lighting

Package included:
1 x 300w led spot flood combo light bar
If you are looking for a cheap light bar that is an ok choice. The light output is going to be questionable as the LEDs probably aren't going to be driven near full power due to poor heat management, and the optics aren't going to be optimizing the lights output. The other issue I have seen on many of the cheaper bars is the bolts used to mount to PSC mounting brackets tend to fail, sections of LEDs fail, and oftentimes when you look at one LED to the next there can be varying colors in one bar.

The question I would ask is are you getting this bar for looks, or are you getting it to be able to see? If you are getting it for looks then go for it. If you are getting it to be able to see I would look at smaller, but nicer LED bars. Some of the better ones for the money would be a BD 15" OnX bar. It would be more than this bar, but also have better optics, better light throw, and a more controlled spill.

Jon

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post #24 of 56 Old 06-23-2014, 10:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grant211 View Post
Tell me again why this would be a bad choice?
It's different in the same way any other knockoff is, whether it's a car part or a cell phone. It's a quality item vs a cheap knockoff. It will work, but that doesn't mean it will work well, or last very long.

I know this because we've purchased and disassembled many of these cheap light bars to see what they're about. Got 5 of them just sitting in my office actually, not sure what to do with them. Some of the things you can always expect from these super-cheap knockoffs:

Low-quality chinese-made generic LEDs:
Subpar lifespan
Defects in LEDs, some may be DOA on arrival
Color is not uniform across the light bar, some LEDs will be cooler or warmer than others

Low attention to detail in assembly:
Misalignment of LEDs on boards causes poor output
Some LEDs or components may fall off or break after a short period of use
Burned/scorched pads and connections due to improper soldering, subject to early failure
Poor seals usually cause condensation or they are simply glued shut, which can create residue inside bar over time

Just cheap overall:
Cheap reflectors instead of optics means poor light output
Electronics inside may not have any TVS or thermistors to prevent damage and ensure long life
No wiring harness included, or if it is, it is not an adequate gauge wire which can be hazardous. (Usually just 18 AWG for a 50" bar... yikes!)
No waterproof connectors
Coating will often have visible defects and "runs" like a bad paint job, or will be physically damaged out of the box (this happens a LOT)

And the big one: no warranty, or a warranty that they'll never back. Any quality light bar will have a pretty long or lifetime warranty, from an established company, with well-defined terms listed (not a "lifetime warranty" with no explanation).

This was supposed to be a short post, seems to have gotten pretty long. Oh well.

Paul
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post #25 of 56 Old 06-23-2014, 10:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepinJon View Post
oftentimes when you look at one LED to the next there can be varying colors in one bar.
Yes, the varying colors is very common with the cheap bars using knockoff chinese LEDs. This is due to the way LEDs are produced and sold, in a process called binning. The more uniform the color, the more expensive it is. If you're getting it for looks, well... it really doesn't even look good, along with the very-common runs and defects in the housings themselves.
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