HELP!!! Electrical gremlin or me being stupid! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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HELP!!! Electrical gremlin or me being stupid!

Been installing D2s and E20" Rigid Industries bar today. Assembled everything on the hood connected wires to the switches and battery and all worked, yes both D2s and bar was working no problem. Ran wires around the engine bay and into the cabin. Went to the RadioShack to get some wires to elongate wire for the E bar inside of the cabin to run it to the driver side pillar. Connect everything back, nothing works!!!!!!! Went back and cut the wires at the point where I have elongated them, connected switch to the E bar and to D2s, none working!!!! When I put key in the ignition and turn it into first position I hear clicking noises from the engine. However, Jeep starts ok, its lights comes up normally. I thought I crossed some wires, so I took all of the light and winch wires from the battery, still same result, some clicking from the engine when I turn key to first position.
What could that be? I am fkn desperate!

Last edited by SFBayArea; 05-14-2014 at 05:07 PM.
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post #2 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 05:19 PM
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What year? Possible fucked with the Canbus system ?


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post #3 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 05:32 PM
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Where did you get power at for the switches?

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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.

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post #4 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 05:55 PM Thread Starter
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It's a 2010 Jeep.
I don't remember clicking noise before, but then I usually just turn on the ignition. It's clicking couple of times only, it's not constant clicking.
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post #5 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 06:04 PM
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I just double checked on my 07 clicking noise is there as well.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #6 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 06:26 PM Thread Starter
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OK, if clicking noise is normal, why my Rigid lights are dead?
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post #7 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 07:53 PM
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Hook them straight to the battery to see if they are dead.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #8 of 24 Old 05-14-2014, 08:42 PM Thread Starter
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Hook them straight to the battery to see if they are dead.
What do you mean? It is connected to battery.
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post #9 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 03:14 AM
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Straight to the battery. Removing any switch/fuse/relay issues.


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post #10 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 06:09 AM
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Straight to the battery. Removing any switch/fuse/relay issues.


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Only for a few seconds to verify that the lights do work.

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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
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I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #11 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Straight to the battery. Removing any switch/fuse/relay issues.


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Hm, can you elaborate for me? How would I connect it directly to the battery and would it not blow the lights connecting it directly avoiding the fuse, etc?
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post #12 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 10:54 AM
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Do you have an electrical tester? Post up if you need instructions on that.

If so, check that the fuse is good?

If the fuse is good, then check the switch with the same electrical tester.


If the fuse and switch are good, then try checking the wiring, Although unlikely, the wire could be frayed but the plastic cover still look good.

If everything checks out, then it's your lights. Either go the warranty route or you'll have to open the casing for a visual inspection to make sure that nothing looks burnt out. If everything looks good, take some wire and run it directly from the battery to the input on the board. If nothing happens after that, then you know the lights are the problem.

To answer your other question, the fuse only protects if too much current is being drawn at a short given amount of time. It's my understanding that it won't reduce the flow of voltage only how much amperage is going through. Most leds can run within a voltage range (6-32v) depending on manuf. and model and the amperage draw is usually low.

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post #13 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 10:55 AM
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No it will not blow the light up. How do you think the light gets it power? Hopefully straight from the battery via a relay powered by a switch. Make 2 jumper wires and connect the light to the appropriate positive and negative. You are only verifying if the light works not going to wire it that way forever. Don't let the positive wire from the battery touch anything else though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by lohchief View Post
If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #14 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 11:00 AM
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Hop on Amazon and buy this...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/193249...&robot_redir=1

Read it...

Then buy a meter.


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Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
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post #15 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 11:09 AM Thread Starter
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I just can't believe such a simple wiring is giving me so much trouble. IT ALL WORKED when I connected it on the hood. The only difference is when I ran it into the cabin I cut the switch connectors to easily bring wires into the cabin. Nothing else changed.
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post #16 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 11:12 AM
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Maybe you crossed the wires on the switch? I did that not too long ago and was wondering why the fuses kept blowing.

Quote:
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If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #17 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 11:14 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Maybe you crossed the wires on the switch? I did that not too long ago and was wondering why the fuses kept blowing.
If I cross wire on the switch, would it blow the fuse? I did try different variations of the wire connections on the switch so I most certainly cross some wires on the switch.
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post #18 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 11:26 AM
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LED drivers are polarity sensitive, you can only wire them one way and have them work, Rigid employs a reverse polarity protection circuit so you didn't damage the lights, and you wouldn't pop a fuse if they weren't polarized properly. I'd double check that my polarity on the switch is correct after re-terminating those connections.

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Some folks are fine with being screwed over, perhaps finding confrontation to be more stressful than just living with whatever the problem is. These are excellent consumers, manufactured to the finest specifications.
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post #19 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 12:05 PM
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If I cross wire on the switch, would it blow the fuse? I did try different variations of the wire connections on the switch so I most certainly cross some wires on the switch.

Yes because you could be sending hot wire to ground and the fuse would blow to protect the whole circuit. Thats what I was doing.

Have you checked the lights off of the battery to just verify that they work yet?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lohchief View Post
If people don't take a stand now,you'll be bitches under their thumbs tomorrow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by StubEXrube View Post
I think too much of a pressure variant between Earth and outer-space... lack of oxygen... something like that.
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post #20 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 12:07 PM
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When passing the switch through the dash area to where I drilled my hole. I must have shorted it out touching the metal playing under the steering wheel. The fuse popped on me.


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post #21 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 12:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Sams Misguided Child View Post
Yes because you could be sending hot wire to ground and the fuse would blow to protect the whole circuit. Thats what I was doing.

Have you checked the lights off of the battery to just verify that they work yet?
Strange thing is that while I know I crossed wires on the switch for the E bar, I am sure I did not cross wires on the switch for the D2 lights, so why the heck either one is not working. ARGH, man something so simple became a nightmare for me.
I am going to try to connect lights directly to the battery today. I guess all I need to do for that is run two wires from each light directly to the battery. I don't see though why both E bar and D2s would blow up at the same time.
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post #22 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 12:48 PM
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You can always bring it by and we can get it fixed up
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post #23 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 12:54 PM Thread Starter
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You can always bring it by and we can get it fixed up
I thought you hate electrical :-). I would love to bring it up to the crew if I don't fix it until next Wednesday?
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post #24 of 24 Old 05-15-2014, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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Ok, I found the problem. As usual it is simple thing that I overlooked - blown fuse on both E bar and D2s. I went on doing all of the hard troubleshooting instead of checking fuses (I just could not think that both fuses on separate lines gone at the same time).

Thank you ALL for you HELP!
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