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post #1 of 4 Old 04-21-2014, 08:12 AM Thread Starter
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Battery Drain

2008 JKU and currently on my 3rd battery in as many months. A few months ago, my battery started going dead any time I didn't drive the Jeep for a week, then it became a few days, then it became a few hours. Alternator was tested as good. Aftermarket electronics include: Viper remote start/alarm, head unit, fog lights, bumper & windshield lights, Backup lights, OTRATTW switches tapped into HVAC for power and underseat LEDs. The dome lights have also been switched to LEDs.

I took it to the dealer who told me he thought it was the alarm. I put the alarm in Valet mode and still had the same problem. I put an ampmeter on the battery with the ignition off and found about a 0.90 pull. Started pulling fuses and the draw dropped to 0.23 when I pulled M13 (the IOD). With this fuse out, there has been no drain for the last 48 hours and all of my aftermarket electronics still work. Does this exclude any of the aftermarket electronics as the cause? What's my next step in isolating the drain since it appears that my dealer is incompetent?
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post #2 of 4 Old 04-21-2014, 09:59 AM
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M13 is only one of the IOD fuses. The white fuse holder, with J13 in it, is the main IOD fuse that will cut power to the individual IOD fuses.


One thing I found out while testing mine is you get a higher reading for a little while after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. This includes disconnecting and putting an ammeter in series. Lots of things power up when the battery is initially reconnected, then power down after a while.
I use a clamp-on meter to test for draw, and make sure I haven't opened and closed a door for at least 15 minutes.
If you have a hood alarm switch, make sure that is depressed for a while before you take readings.

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic

Last edited by ronjenx; 04-21-2014 at 10:11 AM.
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post #3 of 4 Old 04-21-2014, 12:10 PM Thread Starter
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I don't have the ammeter with clamps, but I did zip tie the leads in place and noticed that when initially connecting the meter would jump to 1.5 and then eventually settle at 0.90-0.93.
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post #4 of 4 Old 04-21-2014, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CWGrisw0ld View Post
I don't have the ammeter with clamps, but I did zip tie the leads in place and noticed that when initially connecting the meter would jump to 1.5 and then eventually settle at 0.90-0.93.
A normal vehicle electrical system will draw from five to thirty-five milliamperes (0.005 to 0.035 ampere) with the ignition switch in the Off position, and all non-ignition controlled circuits in proper working order. Up to thirty-five milliamperes are needed to enable the memory functions for the Powertrain Control Module (PCM), digital clock, electronically tuned radio, and other modules which may vary with the vehicle equipment.
Normally, with stock electrical system, excessive IOD can be caused by:

Electrical items left on.
Faulty or improperly adjusted switches.
Faulty or shorted electronic modules and components.
An internally shorted generator.
Intermittent shorts in the wiring.

All the stuff you have added makes troubleshooting a little more complicated.

2008 Unlimited Rubicon Automatic

Last edited by ronjenx; 04-21-2014 at 08:57 PM.
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