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post #1 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 10:21 AM Thread Starter
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DDM HID FLICKER

Hello everyone,

I installed a DDM HID kit over the weekend. 55w, 4500k.

I have a massive flicker on just the high beams. I sent DDM and this is the response:

Some Jeeps have a pulsing system from the ECU to determine if a bulb is out; it can't be seen with a multimeter. It just causes the relay to chatter when the vehicle is running with the high beams on. To stop this, 2 parts are needed (available from most electronics parts stores): 220uF electrolytic capacitor (p/n 272-1029) and a 50v-1a silicon diode (p/n 276-1101). The diode gets installed on the high beam trigger wire to prevent spikes going back to the ECU. The capacitor gets wired between the high beam trigger wire and the ground wire. The capacitor keeps the relay engaged during the pulsing through the blue wire when the high beams are on and the vehicle is running. If there is flickering on low beam, then the same approach applied to the low beam circuit should be successful.

I've searched and searched and have found little info on exactly how to make the changes, but can't find anything. Does anyone know how to do what they are telling me to do and can explain it to me like I'm an idiot and of course pictures would help?

Please help me,
Gary

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post #2 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 01:41 PM
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ok, im glad you posted this. iIm awaiting a DDM 35W kit in the mail. Iv used the 35W kit low beam kit in my G8, not flickering, ever! i hope that my DDM kit will not flicker at all. im Sud'd to see of anyone else has this problem.

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post #3 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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The light is great, the flicker not so much. I'm wondreing if it's because I went with the 55w kit and not the 35w. Lot's of people had put them in their JK's and had no flickering. DDM isn't interested in figuring out why, they just send the (IMO) vague fix.

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post #4 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 02:05 PM
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do you have the harness? from DDM? Its an extra 10-20 i think. Might help out a bit. I dont know why they wouldnt suggest that first! but i love to see, if mine flicker. i will do the resistors

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post #5 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 02:34 PM
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I have the 55w 6000k low beam only and had a major flickering in the beginning and after a few seconds they were off so I bought some error code eliminator for $ 14.99 and problem solve.

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post #6 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 02:57 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by NewAdventure View Post
do you have the harness? from DDM? Its an extra 10-20 i think. Might help out a bit. I dont know why they wouldnt suggest that first! but i love to see, if mine flicker. i will do the resistors
I got the kit with harnes and ballast', but no error code eliminators. Are the resistors you're refering to the ones in the fix DDM sent me? If so do you understand what they are saying to do?


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I have the 55w 6000k low beam only and had a major flickering in the beginning and after a few seconds they were off so I bought some error error code eliminators for $ 14.99 and problem solve.
The stuff I read said the error code eliminators didn't work for high beam flicker if the low beams work.

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post #7 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 03:51 PM
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no, im not so good in the electrical area. Im trying ti out here and there, but not so good. you would need the schematics of both the harness on the jeep and the connectors on the lights themselves should be easy to get.

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post #8 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 04:03 PM
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I'm not sure if LEDs and HIDs have the same issues. But, we have used the anti flicker modules on LEDs headlights and they work great. I'm not sure if it will help the HIDs though...


http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/H13...ness_p_69.html

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post #9 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 04:35 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure if LEDs and HIDs have the same issues. But, we have used the anti flicker modules on LEDs headlights and they work great. I'm not sure if it will help the HIDs though...


http://www.lifetimeledlights.com/H13...ness_p_69.html
I'm not sure. I'm really hoping one of the electrical guru's will chime in. I know someone has the answer, they just haven't seen or posted yet.

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post #10 of 27 Old 01-30-2014, 06:10 PM
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Haha! I realized theres not a lot traffic through here. Or I'm just blind. But yea i hope they chime in too. It really shouldn't be too hard.


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post #11 of 27 Old 02-01-2014, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Saturday Electrical/Lighting Guru Bump.

Please help educate us muggles.

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post #12 of 27 Old 02-01-2014, 11:43 AM
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My Hellfire HID's buzz on High, which I think is the same thing you are seeing. I can't see the flicker with my eyes. I tried Canbus Cancellers, didn't fix it. Only seems to happen when the engine is running


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post #13 of 27 Old 02-01-2014, 12:58 PM
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Is it flickering or more of a pulsation? Cheap analog ballasts will pulsate.

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post #14 of 27 Old 02-02-2014, 10:29 AM
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This is one of the reasons why I'm not running one of these kits right now. The possibility that it's not gonna work and having to deal with a heaping of BS to get it going.

They sure are cheap and tempting though!
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post #15 of 27 Old 02-03-2014, 08:33 AM
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I'm installing the "on the cheap" amazon HID replacements in factory housings this weekend along with these:

http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Warni...us+hid+ballast

I'll let you know how they work out for me.

I think this thing is finally coming together. Still Needed: drive shafts, frame mount rails...then done son! For a while...
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post #16 of 27 Old 02-04-2014, 03:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
Hello everyone,

I installed a DDM HID kit over the weekend. 55w, 4500k.

I have a massive flicker on just the high beams. I sent DDM and this is the response:
..... cut out....

Please help me,
Gary
When you say massive flicker is it from the high/low actuator moving/vibrating?
Do you get relay chatter?

Generally there are two possible root causes:

1.) The JK TIPM uses pulsing voltage in order to regulate the power supplied to the light bulbs in order to increase the bulb life and for DRL where used. This pulsing voltage (PWM) can cause visible flicker on LEDs or relay chatter. This flicker is most often only noticed while the engine is running since the off pulses are longer to regulate the higher alternator voltage down.
This type of flicker can be eliminated by putting a appropriately sized capacitor on the light circuit to smooth out the PWM.


2.) The JK TIPM employs current sensing and activates a on / off pulsing routine if it senses low or high current draw on the light circuits to avoid overloading the circuit at high current draw and detecting burned out bulbs or circuit at low current draw.
Pulsing caused by low current draw can be eliminated with load resistors on the light circuit to "simulate normal current draw".


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post #17 of 27 Old 02-05-2014, 09:15 AM
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I should be able to instal my h4 ddm today. I'll let you know how it goes.

EDIT, ok i installed them. the turn on fine then turn off, turn on for a few seconds then off. after 4 times they stay off. for the low beams. i turn on the high beams and a flicker on the left. then they turn off. so i think the error code eliminators are in order me. then the diodes.

Sorry to thread jack


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Last edited by NewAdventure; 02-05-2014 at 02:07 PM.
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post #18 of 27 Old 02-06-2014, 07:21 AM
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Yep load resistors ( aka error code eliminators ) should get rid of the TIPM protection on/off routine.
FYI a diode is only used as a protection against back surge from the relay coil and does not eliminate flicker/chatter from PWM. Capacitors are to be used for flicker/chatter from PWM. Just note that the use of too high of a capacity capacitor on the high beam circuit will cause delays in high low switch over and could severely blind oncoming traffic even if you reacted quickly.


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post #19 of 27 Old 02-06-2014, 07:35 AM
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Bought the error code things so we will see. I don't even use high beams a lot so i should be ok


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post #20 of 27 Old 02-23-2014, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ASSFROW View Post
Hello everyone,

I installed a DDM HID kit over the weekend. 55w, 4500k.

I have a massive flicker on just the high beams. I sent DDM and this is the response:

Some Jeeps have a pulsing system from the ECU to determine if a bulb is out; it can't be seen with a multimeter. It just causes the relay to chatter when the vehicle is running with the high beams on. To stop this, 2 parts are needed (available from most electronics parts stores): 220uF electrolytic capacitor (p/n 272-1029) and a 50v-1a silicon diode (p/n 276-1101). The diode gets installed on the high beam trigger wire to prevent spikes going back to the ECU. The capacitor gets wired between the high beam trigger wire and the ground wire. The capacitor keeps the relay engaged during the pulsing through the blue wire when the high beams are on and the vehicle is running. If there is flickering on low beam, then the same approach applied to the low beam circuit should be successful.

I've searched and searched and have found little info on exactly how to make the changes, but can't find anything. Does anyone know how to do what they are telling me to do and can explain it to me like I'm an idiot and of course pictures would help?

Please help me,
Gary

I have the same setup on mine, so I did a lot of testing, still testing some things out to simplify. But to help you out in your current situation. If you use the stock harness they sent you, assuming you wired it in on the passenger side closer to the battery. You will need a diode (1N4001 50V 1A) and a capacitor (4700uf 35V Electrolityc), I got mine from ebey very cheap. So the only circuit I modified was the two wires going to the coil side of the bulb, I put the diode inline on the Red wire (stripe/band goes towards the light), and the capacitor goes on both the red and black ( shorter lead with "-" goes on the black/ground wire). You can repeat this for the other side, just the wires are blue and black. I first did this on the one side and it fixed the seen flicker.

On mine before the mod, it worked fine with the Jeep off, but soon as you start it, it would flicker on high. If you look closely and listen to it you can see/hear the solenoid turning on/off for the high beams. From what I have gathered they use a pulsing power for the lights, can't bee seen by the eye, but by the time you add in a relay and solenoid, it can be seen.

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post #21 of 27 Old 02-24-2014, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jaybee1669 View Post
I'm installing the "on the cheap" amazon HID replacements in factory housings this weekend along with these:

http://www.amazon.com/Computer-Warni...us+hid+ballast

I'll let you know how they work out for me.
Ran these on an Opt 7 branded HID kit. Didn't stop the flickering and caused on/off problems.

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post #22 of 27 Old 02-24-2014, 02:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRAUMAhead View Post
Ran these on an Opt 7 branded HID kit. Didn't stop the flickering and caused on/off problems.
I also tried them. Same results. I did not stop the flicker and in one case I had one bulb turn off for the remainder of my drive home. When I turned the lights off and back on the next morning it worked just fine. I took them out.


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post #23 of 27 Old 03-14-2014, 09:04 PM
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Would it be possible to make a stand alone harness with relays,then use the stock head light signal to trigger the relay?

I have the 55w DDM's mounted in some Hella 700FF and they are awesome,so Im wanting to put a set in the stock JK headlights but it looks to be a pita?
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post #24 of 27 Old 03-15-2014, 02:29 AM
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I wired my HIDs off my fogs since they are not canbus'd. I never run headlights without fogs anyway so it was an easy decision. Works great, haven't an issue since day 1.

>> now that I think of it I may have come off the side fender marker. eiither way comes on wiyh fogs and no issues.

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post #25 of 27 Old 03-15-2014, 04:22 AM
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I wired my HIDs off my fogs since they are not canbus'd. I never run headlights without fogs anyway so it was an easy decision. Works great, haven't an issue since day 1.

>> now that I think of it I may have come off the side fender marker. eiither way comes on with fogs and no issues.
damn thats smart! I just have the bulbs that came with my IPF lights and LED fogs and it works well. not as good has HID. if i really had the change id try the new LED floating around the board. thats another 110 thoe.

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