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post #1 of 27 Old 07-17-2009, 03:06 AM Thread Starter
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LED tail lights?

I know this has been covered before...just got done reading this thread https://jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5705

Wondering what I should use for LED taillights so I can keep my factory housings. Plan to tint them so need something brighter, without getting those silly Euro housings.

Is there a plug and play bulb/kit for the rears without using a resistor?

Thanks in advance.
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post #2 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I love how 68 people have read this thread and not 1 has replied ...
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post #3 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:43 PM
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I love how 68 people have read this thread and not 1 has replied ...
I replaced the taillight bulb in my Harley with an LED one. There has to be a replacement, take out the bulb and get the # - or someone post it up - and then search for a LED bulb that meets that light code.

Not certain that it would work but its a good start.
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post #4 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:43 PM
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I love how 68 people have read this thread and not 1 has replied ...


and waahh....
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post #5 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:44 PM
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post #6 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:54 PM
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Or this, since I had some free time.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

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post #7 of 27 Old 07-26-2009, 04:57 PM
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That is F'n awesome!!!

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Or this, since I had some free time.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/tail-brake-turn.html

BAM!

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post #8 of 27 Old 07-28-2009, 03:55 PM
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Has anyone replaced the factory bulbs with led replacements? Do they work well... Which ones have you used... I've been looking to replace mine too. sorry for hijacking...

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post #9 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 08:09 AM
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Dont know about the newer vehicles, but I put some in my 05 truck and needed a resistor to get them to work properly.
The LED s will cause the electrical system to think there is a light out and the flasher will flash rapidly.
I tried a electronic flashe replacement but it didnt help. The resistors did.
Hope this helps.

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post #10 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
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Dont know about the newer vehicles, but I put some in my 05 truck and needed a resistor to get them to work properly.
The LED s will cause the electrical system to think there is a light out and the flasher will flash rapidly.
I tried a electronic flashe replacement but it didnt help. The resistors did.
Hope this helps.
What type of LED did you use? For example, what was the layout of the LED's on the light? How many LED's were on the bulb? ETC...

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post #11 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 01:38 PM Thread Starter
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From what I've gathered the proper way to do this is to add a resistor to each LED you install (if you're doing front and rear turning signals / lights you'll need 4 resistors total) to eliminate the fast blinking and the "ghost" image in the lights once off.

However, I am a little weary because I'm basically putting this together from reading many threads, both on this forum and others.

I wish someone would just post a "hey, here's exactly everything you need to buy to get the job done right" reply, but maybe that's wishful thinking. Nothing's ever easy lol
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post #12 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 05:04 PM
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maybe we could see a write up for this in the near future?? If I get to it first I'll make sure I do it.

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post #13 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 05:14 PM Thread Starter
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Dodge, I like your thinking...

I would volunteer to do a full writeup with pics if someone would tell me specifically what bulbs and resistors (and where to buy) I will need. I'm looking to replace EVERY light on my car possible (interior, license plate, turning signals, etc).

Someone tell me what I need to buy specifically and I'll do a complete writeup with plenty of pics. I think this mod is well past due...
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post #14 of 27 Old 07-29-2009, 09:27 PM
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Question

Please enlighten me.

LEDs are cool and they save power as long as you don't need a resistor to fix the fast blinking. But, putting a resistor in parallel to the LEDs just makes the circuit pull as much current as the light bulb would have. Sure you wont burn out an LED anywhere near as fast as a bulb and they are a few milliseconds faster to turn on and off, but is it really worth the money? You can buy a bunch of bulbs for the cost of an LED tail light. 90,000 miles and the factory bulbs are still going strong.

For things like rock lights, 1 watt LEDs are much better than 55 watt halogens because they use 55 times less power, give good flood patterns, and are tiny. But using a low power LED tail light only to burn ~50 watts of heat in a parallel resistor doesn't make much sense to me.

Please explain the appeal.

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post #15 of 27 Old 07-30-2009, 12:32 AM Thread Starter
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The appeal, Bryan, is that they look a hell of a lot better than the crappy stock bulbs. Once you have LEDs in your cars' you will never go back to regular bulbs. Plus they are considerably brighter making them more safe.

Now back to the topic at hand...has anyone else installed them that can elaborate a little more?

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Originally Posted by gt3073b View Post
Please enlighten me.

LEDs are cool and they save power as long as you don't need a resistor to fix the fast blinking. But, putting a resistor in parallel to the LEDs just makes the circuit pull as much current as the light bulb would have. Sure you wont burn out an LED anywhere near as fast as a bulb and they are a few milliseconds faster to turn on and off, but is it really worth the money? You can buy a bunch of bulbs for the cost of an LED tail light. 90,000 miles and the factory bulbs are still going strong.

For things like rock lights, 1 watt LEDs are much better than 55 watt halogens because they use 55 times less power, give good flood patterns, and are tiny. But using a low power LED tail light only to burn ~50 watts of heat in a parallel resistor doesn't make much sense to me.

Please explain the appeal.

Bryan.
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post #16 of 27 Old 07-30-2009, 03:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DTL II RTL View Post
The appeal, Bryan, is that they look a hell of a lot better than the crappy stock bulbs. Once you have LEDs in your cars' you will never go back to regular bulbs. Plus they are considerably brighter making them more safe.

Now back to the topic at hand...has anyone else installed them that can elaborate a little more?
Gotcha. Thanks

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post #17 of 27 Old 07-30-2009, 05:13 PM
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How about these


http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=42322


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post #18 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 06:28 AM
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I have LED taillights . . . and YES, I had to add a resistor on each side in order to get the flashers to correctly blink. I was told that a 15 watt resistor would work; but I found that the blinkers were still too fast . . . so I went up to a 20 watt resistor, and now they work like normal.





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post #19 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 06:35 AM
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Looks good 4X!

Is that the gatorhyde that comes from RROR? Looks like lineX.... I will have a set of those on my rig and cannot decide on color matching or bed lining. The Gatorhyde looks great on their website but I cannot find anywhere close to Houston that can touch it up or do some more (tub etc...)

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post #20 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 06:43 AM
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Looks good 4X!

Is that the gatorhyde that comes from RROR? Looks like lineX.... I will have a set of those on my rig and cannot decide on color matching or bed lining. The Gatorhyde looks great on their website but I cannot find anywhere close to Houston that can touch it up or do some more (tub etc...)

Thanks.

No, not GatorHyde--I received my RROR pieces bare metal. I then had all of my fenders (fronts = Poison Spyder; rears = RROR) and Crusher Corners (RROR) coated with Rhino Linings brand bed liner . . . it is a professionally sprayed-on product like LineX, but less gritty.

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post #21 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 06:50 AM
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what about these from SWAG OFF ROAD

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post #22 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 07:35 AM
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Thanks.

No, not GatorHyde--I received my RROR pieces bare metal. I then had all of my fenders (fronts = Poison Spyder; rears = RROR) and Crusher Corners (RROR) coated with Rhino Linings brand bed liner . . . it is a professionally sprayed-on product like LineX, but less gritty.
Aha!

Thanks for the info, it looks great. I like the Rhino Vs the LineX because it seems "softer" if that makes any sense, thought that it would be a little nicer for the tub... and there are plenty of RL dealers in Houston..
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post #23 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 08:34 AM
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what about these from SWAG OFF ROAD



Thats a sexy butt! haha where did you find that "Jeep" plate to cover the read gate vent? I like the drop down kit, and the lights!


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post #24 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 09:35 AM
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Thats a sexy butt! haha where did you find that "Jeep" plate to cover the read gate vent? I like the drop down kit, and the lights!
right here
https://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=12517
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post #25 of 27 Old 07-31-2009, 10:33 AM
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Aha!

Thanks for the info, it looks great. I like the Rhino Vs the LineX because it seems "softer" if that makes any sense, thought that it would be a little nicer for the tub... and there are plenty of RL dealers in Houston..
from all of the research I've done on Rhino vs Linex, Linex hands down wins for better lasting and being stronger...not sure why you would want "softer" I've read a lot of guys with pickups that had rhino and got linex

the Swag light kit looks pretty good
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