d30 ORE sleeves and nitro shafts are NO GO - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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d30 ORE sleeves and nitro shafts are NO GO

i have the offroad evolution magnum 44 inner sleeves and was going to install a set of the new nitro shafts with the bigger ujoints today.

as you can see in the pics the clearance of the stock shafts to the sleeve is aprox. .20"

the yoke for the shaft is understandably bigger for the larger ujoint, but extends the base on the yoke into what would be the sleeve if installed.



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post #2 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 03:46 PM
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I'm not sure about the evo sleeves, but I've installed a couple sets of poly sleeves and they do NOT stick out of the tubes like that!

I always weld them recessed IN about 1/4" from the end.

I'm thinking your sleeves are installed incorrectly/not all the way in.

theres no reason to leave them too long and hanging out like that, no strength to be gained, only clearance problems and cost more to produce (used more tubing) if they ARE supposed to be like that.


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post #3 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 03:49 PM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure about the evo sleeves, but I've installed a couple sets of poly sleeves and they do NOT stick out of the tubes like that!

I always weld them recessed IN about 1/4" from the end.

I'm thinking your sleeves are installed incorrectly/not all the way in.

theres no reason to leave them too long and hanging out like that, no strength to be gained, only clearance problems and cost more to produce (used more tubing) if they ARE supposed to be like that.
nope they are all the way in, the evo sleeves have seals built into the end piece that sticks out. the silver colored dot is the grease zerk
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post #4 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 03:52 PM
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I had just pulled up ORE's site and looked at that.

well I'd start grinding on the ends of those tubes till the shafts fit
the seals arent needed anyway, I'd prioritize stronger axles over an unnecessary seal any day.


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post #5 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 04:13 PM Thread Starter
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any reason i cant turn the yokes down like these?
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post #6 of 8 Old 10-23-2011, 04:52 PM
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well, the way I see it, you have 2 pieces of steel wanting to occupy the same space - one has to get smaller.

1 = extra beef on the yoke
1 = optional seal

I know where I'd take away steel.

admittedly, thats not a failure prone portion of the yoke like the ears, but you'll be kicking yourself later if you do snap that yoke at the shaft just so you can pull a nice, clean, shiny - but broken shaft out.

Anyway, feel free to ignore me, I've always thought sealing that end was useless and possibly a bad idea - you won't be able to tell when your inner seals start leaking.
Even though its probably not a big deal if you have sleeves since the gap between the sleeve and the shaft is so small it wont hold much fluid.


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post #7 of 8 Old 10-24-2011, 04:55 PM
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Originally Posted by venom View Post
I had just pulled up ORE's site and looked at that.

well I'd start grinding on the ends of those tubes till the shafts fit
the seals arent needed anyway, I'd prioritize stronger axles over an unnecessary seal any day.
Follow the bold words above. I have done this a few times. It's a lot of work while using the end/edge of the grind wheel but it's the best way to go. By the 3rd one I learned that a pneumatic die grinder is much easier and leaves a nicer finished product than fighting inside the "c's" with an electric 4" grinder.

I did turn a set of axles down to fit as opposed to grinding the sleeve. It's the "easy button" way to go but I wouldn't do it to my rig. the customer was building a showboat that wouldnt see any wheeling so it didn't matter to him.
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post #8 of 8 Old 10-24-2011, 08:22 PM Thread Starter
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i knew i was going to end up cutting the tubes, just picking the hive's mind if there was anything i didnt know about that would work
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