4 Batteries ... 46 months... - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 20 Old 08-09-2010, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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4 Batteries ... 46 months...

Yep. Original lasted maybe 21 months. (out of warranty) - 42000 miles. The second, an Interstate lasted another 8 months (ok, it was two years old already, taken from my camper as an emergency replacement for the first). The third, a COSTCO replacement, lasted 17 months (returned for a refund). Now the fourth is the Sears DieHard premium (I understand Odyssey is the mfg.) with a 4 year full replacement guarantee. Done mucking around with this shiite.

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post #2 of 20 Old 08-09-2010, 07:29 PM
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time to check the alternator

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post #3 of 20 Old 08-09-2010, 07:59 PM
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check for a parasitic draw as well.

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post #4 of 20 Old 08-10-2010, 06:12 AM Thread Starter
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Early model 2007 (I picked up Oct 31, 2006). I had the dealer check the alternator in one of my many many trips with this pile of random parts... after the second battery failed. They swore it was working correctly.

I have noticed that Chrysler improved the battery box in later models... there is now heat shielding and an air duct to improve air flow around it. I just figured with the battery perched right over the exhaust manifold, it is just getting cooked.

2007 Rubicon, Graystone, Auto, Dual, Power, Tow,GENTEX autodim mirror,COOL TECH antenna mount&exhaust,CIBIE,HELLA TPMS,AEM CAI, Fuel Door, Grab Handles,Tuffy,Thule,Olympic,HESCO Supercharger, HID, RR XHD FB w/stinger,DRAKE hoodlatch with locks
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post #5 of 20 Old 08-10-2010, 08:04 AM
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I could not find this post in a quick search, but I recall reading about someone else that was having problems with eating batteries and his dealer finally found the issue and it was the vehicle computer. If I recall (and I could be wrong on this...) the computer does the voltage regulation and it was not working properly. Sorry for being so vague but another place to look.
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post #6 of 20 Old 08-10-2010, 08:51 AM
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My stock battery lasted 39000 miles. It developed a crack and had to be replaced along with the connections to the wiring harness. I got a carquest replacement (2 year warranty).

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post #7 of 20 Old 08-10-2010, 08:58 AM
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That sucks man. I hate replacing batteries. My stocker lasted for about 40k. With no warning I went to turn on my jeep one morning to go to work and it blew battery acid everywhere.

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post #8 of 20 Old 08-13-2010, 10:09 AM Thread Starter
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I learned a couple of interesting facts while researching Odyssey batteries http://www.odysseyfactory.com/

This statement "To fully charge a 31-PC2150 battery that is routinely discharged deeply, a minimum of 40 amps are required with
charger voltage within the range of 14.1V to 14.7V."

That is talking about a specific model... but I remember my digital voltmeter BEFORE this last trip being in that range when driving, and AFTER this last trip, where they did a flash, the range is now 13.6-13.8v on the voltmeter..... So I am speculating there have been complaints of overcharging (mine was one... the first time I took it in when the first battery failed I inquired about the 14+ volts, I was told that was "normal". *holes.)

I now wonder if the guys that did the charging design aimed the charging system at a similar battery type (e.g. the Optima or other 'dry' cell such as the Odyssey) and not at the regular wet cell type that was installed?

2007 Rubicon, Graystone, Auto, Dual, Power, Tow,GENTEX autodim mirror,COOL TECH antenna mount&exhaust,CIBIE,HELLA TPMS,AEM CAI, Fuel Door, Grab Handles,Tuffy,Thule,Olympic,HESCO Supercharger, HID, RR XHD FB w/stinger,DRAKE hoodlatch with locks
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post #9 of 20 Old 10-14-2010, 05:45 PM
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A fully charged battery has 12.6 volts. An alternator idealy needs to be at least 1.5v above this to "push" the electrons into the electrolyte, they don't just "want" to go in there.

Why do batteries just die?, good Q, you ask 100 engineers why you'll probably get 100 diffewrent answers.

Heat,cold, short trips( no chance to fully charge), too much time in a discharged state, more draw than what alternator can deliver (winch,aux lights, BIG AZZ STEREOS) and many other things flat out murder batteries

The reason hybrids can offer a 10yr 100K mile battery warranty is the battery packs are kept between 40-60% charged, no more,no less... but we're talking lithium ion here, not lead acid

Even lead acids are changing... optimas and many others need a different battery charger than lead acid types, but not many folks know this

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post #10 of 20 Old 10-15-2010, 03:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgkjeep View Post
With no warning I went to turn on my jeep one morning to go to work and it blew battery acid everywhere.
Holy shit!

My question is: is this common to JK's? After reading, my first response was to look at a dual-battery setup and theorize how to create a heat shield to protect the batt's from the exh manifold. Then I said: "why bother, just install some RIPP Headers and everything will be cool!"

But then I came back to my senses and beg the question: are battery issues common in our trucks?

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post #11 of 20 Old 01-29-2011, 08:04 AM
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I've been through 4 batteries in just over 3 years. Current battery is an Optima Blue Top, maybe 2 months old after dealer insisted there was still nothing wrong except a dead battery. (Previously had a TIPM replaced that was causing accessories to turn on randomly while driving). Anyways, current battery worked fine last week ago, 3 days ago was dead, I jumped it and drove it a little. It would start fine. This morning it was so dead the doors wouldn't even unlock. Have a case manager from Chrysler now, who at least agrees this is a problem and is sympathetic. Time to jump it and drop it back off. I will post anything I find out.
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post #12 of 20 Old 01-29-2011, 06:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chromantix View Post
Holy shit!

My question is: is this common to JK's? After reading, my first response was to look at a dual-battery setup and theorize how to create a heat shield to protect the batt's from the exh manifold. Then I said: "why bother, just install some RIPP Headers and everything will be cool!"

But then I came back to my senses and beg the question: are battery issues common in our trucks?
We agree power makes everything better - like comfort food for your Jeep -

On a serious note - we haven't heard reports (at least no one asked us) of battery issues... We have heard the starter thing... An interesting note on the starter not starting issue was adding grounding lines to the engine made that go away. Could there be a grounding issue burning up your battery. Possibly weak grounds, some Honda suffered this 98-2003.

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post #13 of 20 Old 01-29-2011, 07:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbod View Post
I've been through 4 batteries in just over 3 years. Current battery is an Optima Blue Top, maybe 2 months old after dealer insisted there was still nothing wrong except a dead battery.
Why did you go with the blue top (marine/RV) instead of a deep cycle yellow or the red top? If I remember right Optima Jim (Optima rep on another board) doesn't even recommend that one. Yellow was his recommendation for Jeeps. Again, I'm going from memory here. I'll try to find the thread.

My stock battery failed after about a year and a half. I've been running a yellow top without any issues since then.

edit: found it.

"Hi Thane1, if you are adding auxiliary lighting and/or a winch, I would definitely recommend a battery designed for a deep-cycle application, like our YellowTop. RedTops work just fine in most applications, but they are not designed or warrantied for deep-cycle use, including winching. muttytruckster, the batteries we are building today are the best we have ever produced. aznjeep, while we do offer our batteries in a variety of sizes, the specifications do not vary based on the retailer. If you do come across a retailer that is claiming different specifications on an identical group size battery, please PM me the links, so I can look into it further.

BlueTops are identical internally to their YellowTop counterparts, except for the 34M BlueTop, which is the marine version of our Group 34 RedTop. Consumer BlueTops come with two-year free replacement warranties, while consumer RedTops and YellowTops come with three-year free replacement warranties.

Dronac, we list a group 25 RedTop as a direct-fit replacement for your Jeep. Some folks will opt to go with a single larger battery, versus two smaller batteries, but the reasons for choosing one over the other can vary from one application to the next. Dual batteries that are not isolated do need to be identical in size, type and age. That means in those applications, if one battery fails, both need to be replaced at the same time. If you have any other questions about our batteries, please don't hesitate to ask.

Jim McIlvaine
eCare Manager, OPTIMA Batteries, Inc.
www.facebook.com/optimabatteries"


http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f96/o...31/index2.html

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post #14 of 20 Old 01-29-2011, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scooter_Trash View Post
Why did you go with the blue top (marine/RV) instead of a deep cycle yellow or the red top? If I remember right Optima Jim (Optima rep on another board) doesn't even recommend that one. Yellow was his recommendation for Jeeps. Again, I'm going from memory here. I'll try to find the thread.

My stock battery failed after about a year and a half. I've been running a yellow top without any issues since then.
The Yellow Top was dead... couldn't even restart the Jeep after it was running test driving at the dealership on my last trip in... the dealer was giving me the story, "absolutely nothing wrong with the Jeep, maybe the yellow top was killed when the TIPM was acting up a few months back but can't say that was the cause, so we'll sell you an OEM battery for some ridiculous price or you can install one here"

Costco was close... and out of everything but the Blue Top so picked it up and put it in. Worked great for a month. Hopefully this dealer will find a draw or something this time.
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post #15 of 20 Old 01-29-2011, 09:41 PM
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just installed a 12.5k winch. I have been thinking about doubling up the batteries. I REALLY like the way 12voltguy's product lets you run off one batter, operated deep-cycle gear off another, isolates both AND lets you self-jumpstart... Does a dual battery set up need ANYthing else??

But I have been kicking THIS idea around: Does mixing these optima/odysee batteries make sense? specificlly, what if I did a red top direct replacedment to handle day-to-day regular-shmegular vehicle operations, THEN pair it up with a yellow top deep cycle for winching, long lighting, refridgerator, compressor, etc? Would this red/yellow combo be the best set up?

Does anyone else do this?

dual batteries ARE definately in my future, but I need some advice in the matter. Any thoughts? Thanks.

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post #16 of 20 Old 01-30-2011, 07:25 AM
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I'm pretty sure you need identical batteries.


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post #17 of 20 Old 01-31-2011, 05:45 PM
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Well, the dealer I switched to said, yeah, there's a draw that isn't shutting off that's running your battery down; they called back later and said they'd fixed it, and now the drain is gone. Not sure why the other dealer didn't see it, they said it was pretty obvious.

Anyways, hopefully that's the end of it for me I'm going over tomorrow to pick it up, interested in hearing the details of what was pulling the power.
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post #18 of 20 Old 02-06-2011, 11:56 PM
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OEM lasted just over a year. My Optima yellow top is still going strong after 2 years.

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post #19 of 20 Old 03-03-2011, 09:03 PM
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Really great answers to the battery problem

Next time check battery voltage with the engine running should be around 13.7- 14.2. I belive this is the rande. Go to some of the battery web sites and you'll get the exact answers.
Then hopefully your DVM will allow you to check amps. put it on your positive post and remove the cable from the battery, but keep the test leads connected, you will see the amp draw. Remove leads then reconnect to see if the draw is still there or turned off...

Hmm,, Ive never done this on my jeep as I've never had a problem, but would be good to see if it turns everything off right away of if things shut down after a period of time.. I'll post back when I find out..


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post #20 of 20 Old 03-03-2011, 09:35 PM
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same issue - i have 2 alarms one stock and one aftermarket-- been like this since 2006 dec- the last two years i was draining and replacing batteries- seems like it got worse--- anyhoots 2 weeks of going from a hemi to stock (thanks camp) my issue might be resolved... plus its great to go fron 9.0 miles a gallon back to 18.0 and still going up!
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