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Poison Spyder Rear BFH...What I Learned...

3K views 34 replies 17 participants last post by  Mr.RonGilbert 
#1 ·
My bumper didnt come with any instructions (no big deal) so i went to the PSC site, and from what i can tell the only instructions that you cant down load there are the ones for the rear bfh. Go figure, aye? So call PSC and aske the dude to e mail them to me. He says no problem, but there must have been a problem between my ******** mouth and his california ears, becuase i never got the instructions. I called marcus (river city off road) and he e mailed them to me pronto.

When i printed them, the templates didnt come out to scale and i coudnt make me printer get them exactly right. Real close, but not exact. If anyone runs into this same problem, here is what i suggest:

Dont paint the bumper until you have it fitting.

Get the 2 templates and throw throw the rest of the instructions away.

Use the templates to mark the angles that you have to cut.

Dont cut like this, this is nowhere near enough:





I should have known that you have to carry the angles all the way across the cross member. I guess i was trying to hurry.

The round things inside the cross member can be ripped out if you stick a round bar or something in there and twist back and forth.

As far as i can tell this is how it has to be cut for the bumper to fit:







I decided to cut free hand with the plasma since it would be behind the bumper, plus i didnt want to take time to draw lines. At that point i was ready to be done with this project.

Once you have it like above, then fit the bumper on. Bolt the bumper with the four factory bolts and snug them up making sure the bumper is level both ways. At this point mark the hole that has to be drilled. I drilled the holes 9/16 instead 1/2 so that the clip nut thing would sit flatter and allow the bumper to go over the rails easier.

Once you have the holes drilled and the clip nut in, put the unpainted bumper on one more time to make sure its good. Is it good? Now paint it.

Thats all i have for now. My bumper is drying right now. I will post pics of the finished product after while.
 
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#7 ·
Nice!!! The cutting was the same for me with the front BFH. Wasn't 100% sure so cut a bit, check, cut some more, check repeat ....
My front bfh went on first try. The rear, i bet i put on and took off 15 times.

Your cut looks real clean. If PSC had the tire cage for the JK, this is the route I'd have probably gone.
Yeah, the cut dont look that bad for free handing it. I did massage it with the grinder a little though.

Im still considering the PSC tire cage. Im just trying to figure out how i can make it work with all the body flex. Im sure there is a way.

Im probably going to get the PSC tire cage and try to make it work.

This answered many of my questions about this bumper Corey! I'm ordering one now!

Sorry we played phone tag all day, my missed calls had missed calls! :laughing:

Looks awesome so far!

Marcus
No problem. While i was trying to call you, i saw the e mail on my phone so i hung up. I dont want to keep bothering you after hours.

Here is the final product. Looks kinda funny with the 1" body lift, but i dont think you can find a bumper as bad ass no damn where.



 
#8 ·
Though i dont think its impossible to do with a saw, i would suggest finding someone with a plasma cutter or torch. When you get to those round things that you see in my first pic, the saw will not be happy. Get plenty blades.
 
#17 ·
Yeah, we just got it about 3 months ago. We use the piss out of it.

Nice looking rear you got there.

If you want to keep it nice, pull it back off, cut a bit more off... as in the entire crossmember... then, put the bumper back on, get a piece of rectangle stock that fits exactly between the frame rails, and angle that new crossmember up snugly behind the bumper, tack it.... you get the picture.

In my experience, the stock crossmember is not enough to hold this bumper together. Since there are no stiffening gussets through the length, it is the bumper's weak point.

Trust me... a little extra work is worth it here.
I will probably do that soon. Thanks for the info.
 
#11 ·
Nice looking rear you got there.

If you want to keep it nice, pull it back off, cut a bit more off... as in the entire crossmember... then, put the bumper back on, get a piece of rectangle stock that fits exactly between the frame rails, and angle that new crossmember up snugly behind the bumper, tack it.... you get the picture.

In my experience, the stock crossmember is not enough to hold this bumper together. Since there are no stiffening gussets through the length, it is the bumper's weak point.

Trust me... a little extra work is worth it here.
 
#21 ·
I looked at the genright carrier at TDS. It puts the rear tire super close to the tailgate. The only way I can see it working with the BFH... You will have to cut some more frame and thru bolt the bumper to where it's nearly flush with the body. It can be done, but not as it sits normally. I guess it also depends on your tire size as well.
 
#22 ·
I have a question.

I love the look of this bumper but how much of a pain in the ass is it to lug the spare to a trail in a four door with a trail dog? I would imagine that you would just leave the tire at the trail head or base camp.
 
#28 ·
UPS dropped off my BFH rear bumper on Tuesday. I am leaning toward the OR-Fab carrier. They have a couple different versions depending on how far you want the tire to sick out from the gate. From the reviews on here they seem like a very sturdy carrier.

Here are some pics of the new carrier that is not released yet. Just enough space to fit a couple of RotoPax cans. Also some pics of the Jerry can version and non jerry can version.
 

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