I have narrowed down how I want to fit 35s with 2 options. Before I explain those options let me tell you what I am trying to achieve.
Where I go trail riding is here in FL. Most of what I ride through is mud and water. I do this on average twice a month (Hopefully this will increase). One of the guys I ride with has no issues with driving in water. He once got stuck in a water hole with water up to the top of the shifter column in a stock JKU (has a snorkel). In order for me to extract him I had to take my manual transmission and 33" tires to just as deep of water and shift it into reverse once the strap was hooked up. I didn't feel comfortable about shutting it off and restarting it as I was worried about water getting into the exhaust (may not be a valid concern). I did eventually get him out without damage to my clutch.
So I am wanting to go taller just to keep my transmission and engine that much further out of the water.
I already chopped my fender flares and have 33s.
My 2 options are to either:
1.5" Teraflex performance leveling kit and 35s or
2.5" Teraflex lift and 35s
I like the first option for the LCOG but the 2nd option will put my transmission 1" higher up and hopefully that much further out of the water.
2.5 coil lift and 37s That will get you around 4.5" higher at the belly vs now. You could just throws 35s on there as is with the cut flares and then decide how much taller you want it to be.
I have thought about this also since I am regearing anyways to 4.56s. I'm guessing I would just have to beef up the front Dana 30? Should I keep it unlocked to prolong breaking shafts?
A 1.5 lift don't be sufficient to clear 35-inch tires.
I replaced a 2.0-inch Rubicon Express Economy lift with a 2.5 inch TeraFlex Budget lift because those 35s kept rubbing the rocker panel rear weld seams at articulation.
I only use the Economy/Budget Boost lifts, which retain stock Rubicon springs and shocks; I have never had any issues.
My 2013 JKR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift
My 2012 JKUR with 35-inch General Grabbers and 2.5-inch Teraflex Budget lift
I have seen plenty of people run 35s on a stock suspension with cut flares. I have no issue cutting the pinch seam. I don't see a 1.5" lift having any problems at all with clearing 35s. Once again it would be with flat flares. You may have had issues doing so with your factory flares.
Yes, you can fit 35" under the Jeep with mild trimming and stock suspension, but don't figure on doing any significant flexing. Pretty much if you think you'll need to disconnect...don't. I know....I'm daily driving one like this right now.
This will only gain you approx. an inch of clearance over your 33s.
If you really want to get your belly up, put a suspension lift under it. 3.5" and 35s doesn't look that bad. 3.5" and 37s look MUCH better.
One of the main things you need to do is extend all your breathers. You can buy the kit or go to the auto parts store and buy the hose and do it yourself.
Down here a snorkel is almost a must. I've been looking into them just not sure yet the one I'll get. As for the lift I would do the 2.5''
I have 35s on a 2.5" TF coil lift. I like the way it looks and have a good bit of clearance, but might actually go to a 3.5" soon. If you are playing with that much water you should at least extend your breathers and look into a snorkel!
no issues with our 2" lift and 35s. only rubs on the end of the oe rubi sliders. I'm going to cut the ends and recap them so there's more clearance and it'll be good from there.
First suggestion(s) as have already been mentioned for deepish water crossings, raise your breathers (TKobb1060 did a pretty bitchin write up on this awhile back) and get yourself a snorkel.
As for water making its way up your exhaust, if you have a 3.6L there is a weird looking loop in the exhaust. I'm thinkin this would serve fairly well as a trap to help remediate any water infiltration, but this is theory and not at all rooted in experience (I have an 09, so this isn't something I can easily test). I would definitely recommend NOT depressing the clutch pedal while in deep water. You can shift into 4L, kill the engine, shift gears & then bump start while in gear. This sidesteps depressing the clutch and is actually detailed in the owner's manual. Look for the section on "clutch bypass".
If you trim the pinch seams (which is so simple, even I can do it - you can ask Stube about my complete lack of knowhow) and add a little bit of suspension lift (an RK 2.5" stock mod ended up netting me nearly 3.5" back in 09 when installed) you can absolutely clear a 35" tire all day long.
Also, if you haven't done it already, rip that plastic air dam from under your front bumper. That thing robs you of turning radius.
Meh, for the OP's application and use, I'd just do teraflex 1" front coil spacers and call it a day. With trimmed fenders, the OP should be fine. Just trim the rear pinch seam. That's pretty much a given with 35s & bigger tires.
Cody, if you really wants springs, I'd do the 1.5" RK springs. Remember, on a 2 door they net about 2"-3" of lift depending on bumpers, winch, and other accessories.
T2 that rig is sick, with the new rig I was thinking low lift big tire also. BB and 35"s with some flat fenders seems like a winner. Those 40's just more tire than I want to pay for. LOL
Just got done putting some 35" A/T on my JK with no lift at all. Just the normal trimmed pinch seam, cut front bumper (may not be needed) and flat flares. Still need to trim my rock rail.
I swapped in 4 door hardtop springs, rubi shocks, and daystar .75" coil spacers. It gave me about 2" up front and 1" in the back. I have not rubbed yet at full flex.
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