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I dont even know where to begin. Need suggestions.

6K views 35 replies 14 participants last post by  justRUBit 
#1 ·
Ok so I have a 2012 4 door Rubicon and I would like to lift it 4 inches and fit 35 inch tires on it keeping the stock 17 inch rims. I figured the stock axles could handle 35's being the max. I didn't want to be cutting sheet metal or re-welding to put the lift kit in and I was wondering if there is a way around. I do not plan on rock crawling but id like to do some trails ( nothing too serious ). Any suggestions on a setup would be fantastic.

Lift kits?
Tires?
 
#2 ·
Reading a bunch around the forums is a good place to start. Take a look at photos, get together with some other Jeepers in your area, etc. And just taking the Jeep out as-is is also a great experience to see what works and what you need.

First off, you don't need 4" to fit 35" tires on your JK. You can stick with something along the lines of a 2.5"-3" lift range and be more than capable. Look at Rock Krawler, Metalcloak, Teraflex, Synergy, etc. The better, more complete the kit - the better of a ride you will have. If you're interested in keeping the center of gravity even lower, you can go with just a set of flat fenders and no lift at all.

Second, you can keep the existing wheels, but you will need to get a set of wheel spacers, like the 1.5" Spydertrax. Keep an eye on them every time you do an oil change (or some other regular interval, and you'll be good to go)

As for tires, it is going to be a question of budget, and what sort of terrain you're planning on driving on. Mostly street? Go with an All-Terrain or a hybrid like the Duratrac. Mud? Rock? Trails? Each has their own variation of what works and what doesn't. Some of the more popular all-around tires are the Toyo MT, the BF Goodrich KM2, the Goodyear MT-R, Mickey Thompson MTZ, etc.

Other small assorted items, like axle gussets and a tuner chip will be good, but hopefully that starts you off with a little direction. :beer:

Call one of the vendors here if you have questions.

Marcus at River City Offroad 832-526-2415
Jay or Norm at Stomper Offroad
Jason at Krawl
...etc.
 
#3 ·
Oh, boy.... Brace yourself. You'll likely get a ton of answers.

Mine is that you do not need 4 inches of lift to fit 35's. With the right fenders you can do 35's with no lift at all.

Depending on what you want to do with it though, a small quality lift (RocKrawler/ Poly are the favorites around here) in the 2.5 inch range is probably what you're looking for.

Others should be along shortly. Welcome to the forum.
 
#4 · (Edited)
For reference, I have a '13 Rubicon 2 dr and am running the Rock Krawler 2.5 X factor lift with Bilstein 5100 shocks I got right at 4" out of that lift. Everything in the lift is bolt on with the exception of the rear track bar bracket. That bracket bolts on but RK suggests welding the bracket in place as well. I have 17" MB Razor wheels with the 1.5 SpyderTrax spacers and 37" KM2 tires. Everything fit great, only cutting I needed to do for fitment was on the stock rear bumper (before I got the Poison Spyder rear).
Everything rides great on the road (better than stock in my opinion), it is a little bouncy on rough dirt roads but better shocks would help with that.

Also, the 2.5 lift availble from most companies will net you closer to 4" of lift so make sure you do your research about how much lift you will actually get out of their springs before making a final decision. And the lift amount is typically for a fully outfitted Jeep (i.e. heavy front and rear bumpers, winch, etc.).


 
#6 ·
Thanks very informative!!!!!!! Yeah I was looking at the 3.5 inch Rock krawler system. It says Its completely bolt on and doesn't mention that I need anything else. It does mention a rear track bar relocation bracket though. Does that mean I have to weld that in or is it bolt on too? As I look through the threads of people who have installed "Bolt On" lifts some of them wind up welding something anyways lol.
 
#7 · (Edited)
If you open the instructions on their website and read through the installation instructions it says they suggest welding it on. I drove mine without it welded for about a month and a half, just bolted on and it didn't give me any problems. If you don't plan on putting anything bigger than 35's, I wouldn't go with the 3.5 RK system. You will end up with close to 5" of lift off of that 3.5. It would however probably be good if you don't plan on running flat fenders because the stock fenders are huge. My 37's fit with the 2.5 X factor system on stock fenders but I would rub like crazy with any flex. I am also running KM2's that measure 35.5" from ground to top of tire when mounted.
 
#8 ·
Lots of good information here. The 3.5 is the sweet spot on the JKU if you're going to wheel it and I think you'd be happy with the 2.5 systems and 35s for daily driving and 35s.

2.5" will keep you from having to mess with the exhaust / front driveshaft and will keep you from needing much more than a lift with coils, shocks, front lower control arms, and sway bar links.

Here's mine on an RK 2.5 with 35s:








Same Jeep with 3.5 and 35s:





But wait there's more... LOL

3.5 and 37s:





3.5, 37s, Poison Spyder Flares:



 
#17 ·
Lots of good information here. The 3.5 is the sweet spot on the JKU if you're going to wheel it and I think you'd be happy with the 2.5 systems and 35s for daily driving and 35s.

2.5" will keep you from having to mess with the exhaust / front driveshaft and will keep you from needing much more than a lift with coils, shocks, front lower control arms, and sway bar links.

Here's mine on an RK 2.5 with 35s:




Wait so if i go with the 3.5 inch lift, i will have to modify the front drive shaft?
 
#10 ·
I had mine welded by someone for a 6 pack of craft beer. It really takes longer to pull the tools out than to actually weld it. Also, Marcus mentioned with the 2.5 not needing exhaust spacers. I don't know if I needed them or not but my exhaust was really close without them so I went ahead and put them on. They are really easy to do though, took like 15 minutes to install the exhaust spacers.
 
#13 ·
I know my friend's situation may not have been the norm, but you really need to weld that trackbar bracket on. No off-roading and not very many street miles and it ripped off the front axle along with the factory bracket.

Fwiw, I run the 3.5 Max travel with 37s, rancho 9000s and love it. Marcus is good at helping one invest in their jeep lol!


Vandy
 
#21 ·
So even with my JKU (being heavier than the two door) I will get a decent amount of net lift out of the 2.5 system? I have decided to go Rock Krawler for sure, but i still seem to be a bit torn between the 2.5 and 3.5 lift. I know i can go 2.5 for sure without any problems but if i can go taller with the 3.5 without having to mess with the drive shafts then definitely will. (Ill be adding gussets to my axles for sure!)
 
#23 · (Edited)
The OP is getting lots of recommendations to go with a 2.5" lift instead of a 3.5" lift. I'm going to say just the opposite, go with a 3.5" lift instead of a 2.5" lift. The 1" taller suspension will have an extra 1" of suspension travel before the axle hits the bump stop, and that makes a difference off road. I'm not talking about rock crawling, I'm talking about just driving on trails, and even dirt roads. I had a 2.5" suspension with 35s on a 2010 JK, and a 2.5" suspension with flat fenders and 37s on a 2011 JK. Now I have a 3.5" suspension and 35s on a 2013 JK, and the 3.5" suspension rides a lot better if you ask me. I don't think it looks bad either.

2010


2011


2013
 
#24 ·
The OP is getting lots of recommendations to go with a 2.5" lift instead of a 3.5" lift. I'm going to say just the opposite, go with a 3.5" lift instead of a 2.5" lift. The 1" taller suspension will have an extra 1" of suspension travel before the axle hits the bump stop, and that makes a difference off road. I'm not talking about rock crawling, I'm talking about just driving on trails, and even dirt roads. I had a 2.5" suspension with 35s on a 2010 JK, and a 2.5" suspension with flat fenders and 37s on a 2011 JK. Now I have a 3.5" suspension and 35s on a 2013 JK, and the 3.5" suspension rides a lot better if you ask me. I don't think it looks bad

My recommendations for the 2.5 were prior to me realizing he has a jku. I agree with you that the 3.5 would be a lot better for him on the JKU.
 
#29 ·
Well Im good now. Just spoke with Marcus at RIVERCITYOFFROAD and he gave me a better understanding of what to expect from the two. The way I understand, the 3.5 is going to be the lift for my heavy ass JKU . Because the JKU is heavier than the 2door its net lift out of the 2.5 inch isn't the same. So by putting the 3.5 inch on my JKU, Ill be getting the same net lift as a 2 door would with the 2.5 inch. I wont have to make any changes to my drive shafts, exhaust ect. I will be adding 3 inch bump stops and 35 inch tires to my baby. :beer::koolaid2::D
 
#34 ·
I had the Teraflex 4" full flex arm lift with 37's on my 2010 JKUR which I recently traded.

I decided to do the same on my new 2014 JKURX... lift arrived today and I'll start working on the install tomorrow.

I made myself sick trying to research EVERY nuance to lifting my Jeep... I'd like to do a long arm but I don't have the initiative to grind and weld brackets as I insist on installing the lift myself.

Money and effort is my motivation, find yours and go with it... research should help you know which lift(s) NOT to choose.
 
#35 · (Edited)
I have this post response saved on my computer because it gets asked so often.
After hours of forum research I eliminated my choices down to Rock Krawler, Metal Cloak and AEV.

I am not sure how this happened but I somehow eliminated AEV in the actual price shopping process I don’t have a good reason as they are priced competitively.

To set a base line for my use expectations. My Jeep is a daily driver up to 60 miles R/T but most days about 10-15 miles R/T. I will try to wheel as often as possible. I have no intention of wheeling in areas where I can get extensive body damage. Tight trails between trees and big ass rocks producing HIGH PUCKER FACTOR is not my idea of fun in my 2010 I’m still make payments on.

My final choice was a 2.5 inch RK Flex “System”. System included Bilstein Shocks, Bump stops and Spring retainers, Springs, Lower control arms, track bar and rear track bar relocation bracket. I netted 4 inches on my 2010 2 door and easily fit 35’s.

Reasons for my decision:
1) RK is VERY active on forum for support I assume this will also be a reflection of their service if called
2) Northridge had 20% off all RK products. This month it may be a different vendor. Fact is you can usually find some kind of discount from a vendor.
3) Metal Cloak had a 5-6 week wait time...Once I decide to spend my money I want my product NOW. I lack the patience to wait that long for something.

Install-
I am not very mechanically inclined. I don’t do my own oil changes. I do have a full mechanics tool set, 2 jacks, jack stands, and air tools. I bought a 1 ½ and 1 5/16 wrench for the jam nuts. I did the install with one other person in 8 hours. We worked non stop and stayed sober. We would have been done in 6 hours but didn’t realize you could not tighten the jam nuts installed so we had to take them off and tighten them…(I Love working 2x). The Rear track bar bracket is bolt on but it is recommended to be welded after bolted. I finished the kit and took it to my local muffler shop and had it welded for 50$( I felt robbed for 10 min of work).

I am happy with my RK kit and obviously would recommend it
 
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