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Anyone damage shocks while wheeling?

4K views 28 replies 16 participants last post by  srbaker2 
#1 ·
Looking at getting some bypass shocks and wondering if anyone has damaged their shocks sliding over objects and hitting them in the rear, stuff like that. If so i'm interested in how it happened as maybe I can come up with a solution to help keep me from damaging them.
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hmm that sucks. What about making a guard to protect the back side of the shock? I have RJ60 rear axle so I could get like 1/2" shorter shocks in the rear and make a guard to bolt on and protect the bottom half of the shock.

Are coilovers worth the extra time/money? especially on a 3" lift? Whats the 'best' way to set up coilovers as far as mounting is concerned?

I've considered coilovers but I'm thinking its going to cost me even more time and money than I'm ready for right now. Plus I just got coils with the Synergy lift I just bought lol. Not that i couldn't change directions. I haven't bought shocks yet, hence the reason I'm asking. I'd just rather not spend more $$ than is necessary.
 
#5 ·
When I saw this thread the first thing that came to mind was that tweeked rear shock that you pulled off your rig!
 
#9 ·
When my fist lift was put on ....long since changed....My trackbar relocation bracket was crushing the right rear shock at full stuff.
 
#13 ·
think I've bent six now... always the rear passenger? I am with Oleg... cheap shocks are the way to go. Now... I run bent shocks as I am too poor to buy new ones every other time I go wheeling.

They are just in a horrible location. Bad Chrysler Engineer!!!
 
#18 ·
Damn, you guys play rough with your junk!

FWIW, Kilby makes a rear shock guard that's rarely seen but is quite effective.
 
#20 ·
At one point I considered a rear coil over guard for our RECON bolt on system but after running into countless clearance hurdles the plan was scrapped.

We have never had a single rear coil over come back to us with a failure due to placement/contact. Nearly all of our local customers play with us on the Hammers and Rubicon and are thrilled with how col overs perform on the rocks.

Yes the coil over hits the rocks and yes the powder coat does get rashed up. However the spring takes all the abuse and keeps on doing its job. The expensive and critical shock sees zero damage.

http://www.rebeloffroad.com/Jeep_4x4_Coil_Over_Conversion_Kit_s/115.htm

 
#21 ·
Thats good to know.

I may end up doing coilovers in the long run. I've seen one setup I really liked and would love to do some day but its pretty costly. Check out Friar Engineering's Jeep. Its a 4dr thats been stretched about 2" in the front and 3 in the rear. They have wider Spydertracks 9" axles front and rear to accommodate the coilover system. The Jeep looks so bad ass. I love the geometry of the front and rear coilover mounts too. in the front, they have a bar that goes across the front of the engine compartment and ties the two front coilover mounts together. I was pretty impressed and the amount of flex is impressive. They're out of San Diego and I'm not sure if they're doing a ton of production on their stuff but their website has some decent info so its worth a look. I'm still not entirely sure what I want to do at the moment. I'd like to get some more good info on coilovers. I appreciate all the input guys, please keep it coming. I'm going to have to make a decision here soon so the more input I can get the better.

http://www.friar-engineering.com/
http://jk-adventure.com/JKA/content.php?153-THINKING-ABOUT-COILOVERS-ON-YOUR-JK
 
#25 ·
I broke my radflo coilover and after a little digging around on the interwebs it seems to be a bit of a problem for them.
So I decided to go with a different brand coilover. I'm going with king 12" length but I'm getting the 2.5 instead of the 2.0. There are obvious benefits to the bigger version.
Also decided to do the rear coilovers. I'm going to mount mine vertical outboard of the frame. I have longer than stock axles so I have the room to mount them towards the front of the axle just above the LCA's without going into the tub. This will allow me to keep my rear sway for more stability. Research has said outboard coilovers are stable enough without the sway but since I have room why ditch it. Plan to put disconnects on it for offroad use.
The other good thing about the kings is that they can have them to me in a week vs 3+ weeks for rock krawler and fox. They have been very helpful with valving and spring rates etc.



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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=34.261228,-97.000427
 
#27 ·
I broke my radflo coilover and after a little digging around on the interwebs it seems to be a bit of a problem for them.
So I decided to go with a different brand coilover. I'm going with king 12" length but I'm getting the 2.5 instead of the 2.0. There are obvious benefits to the bigger version.
Also decided to do the rear coilovers. I'm going to mount mine vertical outboard of the frame. I have longer than stock axles so I have the room to mount them towards the front of the axle just above the LCA's without going into the tub. This will allow me to keep my rear sway for more stability. Research has said outboard coilovers are stable enough without the sway but since I have room why ditch it. Plan to put disconnects on it for offroad use.
The other good thing about the kings is that they can have them to me in a week vs 3+ weeks for rock krawler and fox. They have been very helpful with valving and spring rates etc.
Hmm ok well thats good to know that the radflos are having issues. I really think the outboard mount looks to be the best... It just might be a PITA for me to do it... I already have a RJ60 in the rear and I'm pretty sure its factory width... I don't plan on buying another one just to have one thats 2" wider, so notching the frame looks like it would be my only other option unless I spend the money to get like 3.5 backspace wheels and then I'd still have to run them with spacers. From what I read with a 70" wide rear axle you can still run a 4.5 backspace wheel. If I go the outboard route, I think I'll just run without the rear sway bar if its stable enough, which it sounds like it should be as long as the coilovers are dialed in right.
 
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