READ THIS BEFORE WHEELING IN THE PINE BARRENS! - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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READ THIS BEFORE WHEELING IN THE PINE BARRENS!

Here is the deal with big tires, and why axles break. A taller tire creates more torque on the axle shaft, which leads to more twisting. Look at it this way, if you have a bolt that you can't get to "twist” loose what do you do…get more leverage. A 37" tire is going to provide more leverage than anything smaller. Usually you go with a wider tire as well as a more aggressive tread. This all equals up to more toque going to the axle shaft. Axle shafts are meant to twist some and spring back to their original position, but what happens when you take a piece of metal and keep bending it back and forth? It breaks. I believe in one way or another if you wheel your jeep on a Dana 30 you will eventually break an axle or a set of spider gears (if running an open diff). If you are running a locked front, kiss your stock axles good bye.

As far as the Pines destroying things, it will and it does. However, you can prolong this quite a bit. Here are a few things to live by if you want to play in the pines and still be able to drive your jeep.

1) Grease is your friend (plus it helps me stay employed for I work in an oil refinery.) Every time you are done going through the beloved Pine Barrens sugar sand/water mixture that everyone loves (and some call mud), grease every zerk fitting on your jeep to force out any crud. If your U-joints and steering components don't have fitting on them, throw them away and get ones that do. Your U-joints (driveshaft and axle shaft) should have them. Even if they are inverted, go get the proper attachment for your grease gun. If you cannot do this after every pines run...A) don’t go out B) don’t cry when your crap self destructs.

2) If oil can come out, water can go in. If you see an oil leak, you may not know it but you also see the shortened lifespan of your Jeep components before your own eyes. Water does not carry the same lubricating properties as oil. If it did I wouldn't have a job. Water also oxidizes metal. This can cause rust on bearings and surfaces that are supposed to be smooth. Rust causes pits, which cause a ruff rotation for a bearing. Get that bearing turning at 9000 rpm and see what happens with a not so smooth bearing..... It self destructs. Bottom line, if you are leaking oil and go play scuba diver expect to be working on your jeep in the near future.

3) Waterproofing. See all them posts about extended breathers......read them and live by them. If you don't do it, don't cry when your tranny is overflowing Pepto Bismol out of every orifice possible. My favorite quote is, “I flushed my tranny and it appears to be fine.” I tell the same people to give me an update in 10,000 miles. The same thing goes with axles. Say good bye to your pinion bearings and carrier bearings.
Another thing people never think of is the dipstick. Take an old plug wire boot and slide it over the dipstick and dipstick tube. This helps a lot. A homemade snorkel is better than no snorkel.

4) Clean your Fucking Jeep. Not the shiny part but the underneath. Detail it, feel it. Your eyes and fingers will let you see or feel where any oil maybe leaking. Also, dirt and swamp weed wrapped between your yoke and pinion seal will eat away at that seal. Just because you guys have brand new Jeeps does not mean they won't rust. Metal, dirt and moisture end up equaling rot. (If you decide that washing your jeep isn’t worth your time, by all means let me know, I will wait for your jeep to start rusting away that way I can finally afford a JK for myself)

5) Why is Tom Woods the holy grail of drive shafts? Looking at his shafts all I see are smaller parts being used to make room for an increased drive shaft angle. Plus if the drive shaft doesn’t use Spicer parts, it isn’t worth 25 cents in my mind. Neapco is garbage along with Brute Force. If anyone needs drive shafts done, get a hold of me and I'll point you in the right direction. This way you don't have to wait for your shaft to go to Utah as well.

Keep in mind guys, you can drive underwater as much as you want as long as you are willing to put a little bit of money and time and effort out, and get off of Tom’s wood.

Thanks to Mudboy for spelling this out for us.
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post #2 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:35 AM
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cmon now your making me blush lol
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post #3 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:41 AM Thread Starter
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This was all you man. I just butchered it into "Engrish"
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post #4 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:48 AM
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wait a minute big tires break axles

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post #5 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by lmg5819 View Post
This was all you man. I just butchered it into "Engrish"
Engrish works for me
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post #6 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by BBirish View Post
wait a minute big tires break axles

Yep, but did you know that BL's stretch your shit out?


<<< runs back down to the Sunshine State







edit: Nice post lmg5819! Too many folks ride em hard & put em away wet then wonder why they break down in the middle of nowhere.

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post #7 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 10:03 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by scottrock View Post
edit: Nice post lmg5819! Too many folks ride em hard & put em away wet then wonder why they break down in the middle of nowhere.
All mudboy. I just had the time to turn it into a new post.
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post #8 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 10:19 AM
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Yep, but did you know that BL's stretch your shit out?


<<< runs back down to the Sunshine State







edit: Nice post lmg5819! Too many folks ride em hard & put em away wet then wonder why they break down in the middle of nowhere.
they do!!!!! thats it im going back to stock

jokes aside this is a good post larry and mudboy, maybe sticky material
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post #9 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 10:23 AM
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That whole rant and nothing about staying away from Pineys and Pine Lights?

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post #10 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 10:38 AM
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Moral of the story, another reason to stay out of NJ. I already knew that.

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post #11 of 41 Old 04-22-2010, 12:08 PM
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No comments about the Tom Woods comments?

From what I "read", Tom Woods are pretty good...?
At least compared to the stocks...

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post #12 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:16 AM
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That's it then. Barb and I are done with the Pines since the Jeep is our only ride right now. Can't afford to have it go down!!! I thought being "trail rated" it could handle that stuff?

Doug 08 4dr X 6 spd Det Yellow
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post #13 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:27 AM
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Just do what i do doug,put it in 4 lo and drive back and through the carwash.Needs to be done 3 or 4 times a day to get the full effect.

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post #14 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:32 AM
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Originally Posted by jkruss View Post
Just do what i do doug,put it in 4 lo and drive back and through the carwash.Needs to be done 3 or 4 times a day to get the full effect.

Doug 08 4dr X 6 spd Det Yellow
You are a load that should have been swallowed, but someone as bitter as you are probably would have been spat out. Ahh Dancin Dan
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post #15 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:56 AM
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That whole rant and nothing about staying away from Pineys and Pine Lights?

I am a native Piney and am proud of it
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post #16 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:57 AM
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Originally Posted by neoxxis View Post
No comments about the Tom Woods comments?

From what I "read", Tom Woods are pretty good...?
At least compared to the stocks...

failure rates seem pretty high in this neck of the woods. If I had teh money to go adavertise all across the universe and spoke nicely to people I'm sure people would think i wore a halo as well.
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post #17 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 05:06 AM
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Just do what i do doug,put it in 4 lo and drive back and through the carwash.Needs to be done 3 or 4 times a day to get the full effect.
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post #18 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by lmg5819 View Post

5) Why is Tom Woods the holy grail of drive shafts? Looking at his shafts all I see are smaller parts being used to make room for an increased drive shaft angle. Plus if the drive shaft doesn’t use Spicer parts, it isn’t worth 25 cents in my mind. Neapco is garbage along with Brute Force. If anyone needs drive shafts done, get a hold of me and I'll point you in the right direction. This way you don't have to wait for your shaft to go to Utah as well.
I am looking currently into getting new driveshafts. WHat so you suggest? I'm pretty much between Tatton, Coast, or a custom driveline shop (If I can find one).

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post #19 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 08:39 AM
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I am looking currently into getting new driveshafts. WHat so you suggest? I'm pretty much between Tatton, Coast, or a custom driveline shop (If I can find one).
Here you go...from the original thread that spawned this one:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mudboy View Post
I don't do much as far as fabwork goes. I do stuff as a hobby. There's a local driveshaft shop in Pennsauken, just across the bridge from philadelphia. His shafts are being used in extreme applications where a woods shaft would snap like a twig. I just don't like alot of the nationwide shops because the main reason they have a big name is they put the money out to advertise. I remember when Woods got big in the early 2000s along with high angle drivetrain. A good shop in my view will rely strictly on word of mouth and proof that there work is 100% top notch and not rely on 100s of dollars in marketing. Henry at Rebuilt Parts in Pennsauken may not be known nation wide, but he's been in the business since before I was born (81) and he has shafts in trucks that are running up to 68" tractor tires and about 1000 hp nitrous motors. I usually use M&M as a good example, his truck has a moderate 800+ hp. 57" tractor tires, Henry's shafts and abuses the truck almost every weekend during the wheeling season and has NEVER had a problem with a shaft. Mike at M&M trucks is good with putting the orders in, he'll check all angles and lengths to make sure the shaft is made properly for the vehicle it's going in.
Done wheeling for a while

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For my money, the most notable part of this thread is all the fallout from bsack's fortune cookie factory explosion.
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post #20 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 11:01 AM
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There is one guy locally that I recommend as stated above. I'm sure there are other people in the country just as good. I'm just stating that I have seen the torture these shafts have been through. Building a jeep shaft that will hold up should be a cakewalk. Mikes # is 856 906 3161 tell him i sent ya and he'll hook ya up.
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post #21 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 04:31 PM
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There is one guy locally that I recommend as stated above. I'm sure there are other people in the country just as good. I'm just stating that I have seen the torture these shafts have been through. Building a jeep shaft that will hold up should be a cakewalk. Mikes # is 856 906 3161 tell him i sent ya and he'll hook ya up.
Good information to have. Rear shaft is done with coast 1350. I was looking for someone semi-local to me and could not locate one. I will check him out when I do the front in a few months.

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post #22 of 41 Old 04-23-2010, 05:36 PM
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Thank God I still have mopar shafts, they are the best in the land and haven't failed me yet! lol

Doug 08 4dr X 6 spd Det Yellow
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post #23 of 41 Old 04-24-2010, 09:37 AM
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Whole lotta good info there! I don't know if I can keep outta the pines for good, just too addicted

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post #24 of 41 Old 05-13-2010, 07:06 AM
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Why is this a sticky?

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post #25 of 41 Old 05-13-2010, 09:37 AM
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Why is this a sticky?
Because we ride in the pines a lot, and the pines have a tendency to destroy parts. It's kind of a "how to" for maintaining your vehicle after submerging it in water and silty sugar sand. Feel free to ignore any info in this post and we will gladly point you to it after you come wheeling and can't figure out why all of the sudden you are having problems.

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