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post #1 of 30 Old 11-17-2010, 09:27 AM Thread Starter
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Nor Cal Garage / Tech support

Nor Cal ,

I have been on automotive forums for 10 years since I was 19. Sometimes you get some really crappy advice form GOOGLE MECHANICS. Since most of us either know each other or will know each other, this will be a great spot to work out anything technical that has to do with our JKs.



Please only reply to any questions if you have first hand experience or you absolutely know the answer. If we do this right this will thread will work out well for all of us.

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post #2 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 07:17 AM
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My next mod I think is the Tera Flex Big brake kit. Since I tow my trailer.

What do you guys think about the kit and instalation for someone like myself who has minimal basic mechanical skills.

Also, For the rear, shouldn't I beef those up to??

Thanks
Stacy

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post #3 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 09:59 AM
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The first production run of the TF big brake kit has some issues. Before spending that kind of money try upgrading to a super premium style pad such as those by EBC or Hawk. This should give you the braking you are looking for and if your trailer is within your tow rating you should have no issues.

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post #4 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by 09rubicon View Post
The first production run of the TF big brake kit has some issues. Before spending that kind of money try upgrading to a super premium style pad such as those by EBC or Hawk. This should give you the braking you are looking for and if your trailer is within your tow rating you should have no issues.
What's up with the TF kit, I would have thought it was stout?

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post #5 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 10:11 AM
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It's is stout, they just had a few pad to caliper fitment issues. My understanding is it is already being addressed/remedied. I do know for a fact though that the performance pads mentioned above will make a dramatic difference at a much lower cost.

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post #6 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 10:14 AM
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It's is stout, they just had a few pad to caliper fitment issues. My understanding is it is already being addressed/remedied. I do know for a fact though that the performance pads mentioned above will make a dramatic difference at a much lower cost.
Thats cool, I am not going to upgrade it right away, probably Spring so hopefully by then they will have it resolved.

I tow right at capacity and I have done every mod imgainable besides a Hemi & D60's, to help pull my beast. Now I just want to make sure that I can stop it.

Thanks big time.

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post #7 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 02:14 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 09rubicon View Post
It's is stout, they just had a few pad to caliper fitment issues. My understanding is it is already being addressed/remedied. I do know for a fact though that the performance pads mentioned above will make a dramatic difference at a much lower cost.
Thinking about getting this kit myself. I talked with the guys from teraflex and thier kit now uses Dodge Ram 1500 brake pads with a dual piston caliper. The nice thing about this kit is by using the Ram Pads you can just buy an off the shelf pad at any automotive parts store and you can get the option for cross drilled rotors for towing or regular rotors.

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post #8 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 02:53 PM
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Originally Posted by WKDYJ View Post
Thinking about getting this kit myself. I talked with the guys from teraflex and thier kit now uses Dodge Ram 1500 brake pads with a dual piston caliper. The nice thing about this kit is by using the Ram Pads you can just buy an off the shelf pad at any automotive parts store and you can get the option for cross drilled rotors for towing or regular rotors.
Thanks man , didn't realize they had rotors for towing. I may go with the other pads for the time being until I can get the kit.

Thanks guys.

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post #9 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 03:26 PM
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Be careful with the cross-drilled and/or slotted rotors. In many cases they can actually reduce brake performance.

The point of cross-drilling/venting is to realease the gasses that can build up under the pad during hard braking and to reduce heat build-up. The problem with that is that by drilling/venting you are removing swept area off the rotor, in some cases as much as 10+%. The bennifit that you would recieve from the gas release and cooling would be outweighed by the loss of performance from lack of swept area unless you are constantly running at the high end of your brakes performace envelope. Unless you tow heavy loads daily or are going to an oversized rotor (think 15-20% greater swept area) you are better off staying with a simple factory styled rotor.

A simple and relativley inexpensive way to drasticaly improve your stock brakes performance for towing and oversized tires is to do three things.

1. Change out your pads for a super premium/performance pad (Hawk, EBC, Etc.)

2. Change out your rubber brake lines for braided stainless. This reduces swell in hot and old lines under pressure (and they are also much more durable off-road!).

3. If your breaking system will support it, switch to a higher rated brake fluid (DOT 5). This has a higher silicon amount and a much higher boiling point. If you do this though be sure to thoroughly evacuate all old fluid before filling with the new fluid.

These three things can be accomplished in most cases for much less than $200 and can make a very dramatic improvment in your brake system performance as well as longevity.

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post #10 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 03:44 PM
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Sweet
Thanks

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post #11 of 30 Old 11-18-2010, 05:17 PM
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Ovaled or Worn Trackbar Hole

ALright guys, this may be a little premature, but this is my weekend project.


I have been having intermetent DW and have finnaly traced it to two issues. Ball joints going out and a worn axle side trackbar bolt hole. I have to wait until PP starts shipping their new ball joints to fix that, but I have a solution for the other.



Its a reducer-spacer. 3/4 OD to 9/16 ID with a nice shoulder. I am going to drill my trackbar bolt hole out to 3/4 and insert. If it works I will have it welded up nicley. It should hold up better than the factory stamped steel bracket anyway. Wish me luck.

They can be purchased at:

www.ballisticfabrication.com

Like $2.99 each and are available in multiple sizes.


Scott

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post #12 of 30 Old 11-22-2010, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by 09rubicon View Post
ALright guys, this may be a little premature, but this is my weekend project.


I have been having intermetent DW and have finnaly traced it to two issues. Ball joints going out and a worn axle side trackbar bolt hole. I have to wait until PP starts shipping their new ball joints to fix that, but I have a solution for the other.



Its a reducer-spacer. 3/4 OD to 9/16 ID with a nice shoulder. I am going to drill my trackbar bolt hole out to 3/4 and insert. If it works I will have it welded up nicley. It should hold up better than the factory stamped steel bracket anyway. Wish me luck.

They can be purchased at:

www.ballisticfabrication.com

Like $2.99 each and are available in multiple sizes.


Scott

That's cool Scott. I have the same issue with the frame side bracket.
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post #13 of 30 Old 11-22-2010, 11:57 AM
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That's cool Scott. I have the same issue with the frame side bracket.
I will let you know how they work once they arrive.

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post #14 of 30 Old 11-27-2010, 06:49 PM
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Turns out it works pretty well. No more DW, still have vibration from bad ball joints, but I can deal with that later.

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post #15 of 30 Old 11-27-2010, 10:53 PM Thread Starter
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Glad the death wobble is gone. Dynatrac makes some nice ball joints but if you want a cheaper option I hear the crown ball joints are good. http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=42608

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post #16 of 30 Old 11-28-2010, 12:02 AM
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I have the Teraflex big brake kit and have installed it on 1 customers jeep. The braking power is about 10-20 percent better then stock, but the biggest improvement over stock is that it has almost no fade in braking power. I live on a steep hill and my stock brakes would start to fade toward the bottom of the hill. With the Teraflex brakes they feel great the whole time with no fade. In my opinion they are well worth the money if you have tires over 35".
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post #17 of 30 Old 11-28-2010, 09:58 AM
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I am still getting a steering wheel shimmy from about 48-52 mph. On some road surfaces it does do it, on others it feel slike it wants to break out into death wobble. I have the caster set pretty darn close. My only idea is that maybe the toe-in is bad. I never did have it re-done when I changed to the 4.5" BS wheels (Stock steelies were 6.87" or something). I am going to try and measure it today to see if they have gotten knocked way out. Which is fairly easy when banging into rocks and such on the trail.

Only other idea is a bad ball joint. Which is easy to check for as well.
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post #18 of 30 Old 11-30-2010, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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I am still getting a steering wheel shimmy from about 48-52 mph. On some road surfaces it does do it, on others it feel slike it wants to break out into death wobble. I have the caster set pretty darn close. My only idea is that maybe the toe-in is bad. I never did have it re-done when I changed to the 4.5" BS wheels (Stock steelies were 6.87" or something). I am going to try and measure it today to see if they have gotten knocked way out. Which is fairly easy when banging into rocks and such on the trail.

Only other idea is a bad ball joint. Which is easy to check for as well.
Death wobble can be caused by alot of things. I would start by checking all your bushings. I have had death wobble caused by Busted control arm bushings and by a bad track bar bushing. Another thing to check is your pitman arm and steering box. If the nut on your pitman arm is loose, or the splines on your steering box are worn or stripped can contribute to death wobble. Also if your tires are really out of balance can cause death wobble.

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post #19 of 30 Old 11-30-2010, 11:32 AM
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Death wobble can be caused by alot of things. I would start by checking all your bushings. I have had death wobble caused by Busted control arm bushings and by a bad track bar bushing. Another thing to check is your pitman arm and steering box. If the nut on your pitman arm is loose, or the splines on your steering box are worn or stripped can contribute to death wobble. Also if your tires are really out of balance can cause death wobble.
Oh, I have lots of experience tacking it down (that happens when you own 4 jeeps).

I had my tires re-balanced yesterday and it seems to have made a markable improvement. I checked my tera-flex control arms and JKS trac-bar, and they are all tight and in good shape. Going on a week long trip tonight, if it stays ok, then I am good. If not, then it may be a toe-in issue.

But it has not gone into death wobble (yet), just a shimmy. Which are two very different things.
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post #20 of 30 Old 12-01-2010, 08:20 AM
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So after my 5 hour trip yesterday, my steering wheel shimmy is 95% gone There is a very very slight amount right at 50, but its barely noticeable.
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post #21 of 30 Old 12-01-2010, 08:28 AM
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So after my 5 hour trip yesterday, my steering wheel shimmy is 95% gone There is a very very slight amount right at 50, but its barely noticeable.
Glad to hear it!

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post #22 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 12:26 PM
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Just came across these. Says they fit 2007+ Jeep Wrangler.

1/2 degree offset upper ball joints. Just thought I would share.

http://www.amazon.com/McQuay-Norris-...2009&carId=002

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post #23 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 08:26 PM
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Does anyone know if Half doors will Work with a hardtop?? Thanks!

"CUTTS CREW"
"08 2 Door X-Fox Coilovers-Custom MC ended Long Arm w/ 8" Rear Stretch-40" ProComp MT2-ProRock 44 Unlimited-ARB Front/Rear Locker-5.13's-Custom VKS Rock Rails-Chopped Fenders-ARB Compressor-Overkill Corners Customized-PSC Hood Louver-PSC BFH Trail Stinger
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post #24 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 08:47 PM
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Does anyone know if Half doors will Work with a hardtop?? Thanks!
Like this? (scroll down to 2dr) i think it looks awsome

PICS - Half doors and a Hardtop

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post #25 of 30 Old 12-02-2010, 09:33 PM
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Does anyone know if Half doors will Work with a hardtop?? Thanks!
dood, half doors? that's awesome. how about some details?

Mike M

2013 2dr rubi
MC 2.5", Fox RR TF tuned shocks, TF carrier, Viair, TL's and so on...... still on stock tires
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