Replacing a u-joint question..... - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 25 Old 08-24-2008, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 242
Feedback: 0 reviews
Replacing a u-joint question.....

Today in prepping my JK Rubi for a wheeling trip next weekend I noticed I had a u-joint with the cap almost all the way off. So I replaced it.....no big deal right......Well I really struggled getting the u-joint out and the clips installed on the new one. All along I kept thinking there has to be an easier way. So my questions......

1. What is the easiest way to remove the u-joint from the axle shaft?

2. What is the easiest way to install clip on the new u-joint?
Duke is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 25 Old 08-24-2008, 05:16 PM
Rock God
 
mcnaught6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: HellPaso, TX - Fort Bliss
Age: 38
Posts: 1,304
Feedback: 0 reviews

i know i've seen a good article on doing this on pirate4x4, but i think it used full-circle clips, but not much difference. i'll try to find it.
mcnaught6 is offline  
post #3 of 25 Old 08-24-2008, 05:32 PM
Rock God
 
mcnaught6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: HellPaso, TX - Fort Bliss
Age: 38
Posts: 1,304
Feedback: 0 reviews

check out these links:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...60/index2.html


this one is a .pdf of installation instructions from CTM:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billav...stallation.pdf
mcnaught6 is offline  
post #4 of 25 Old 08-24-2008, 11:00 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Broncojohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 43
Posts: 2,522
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Duke View Post
1. What is the easiest way to remove the u-joint from the axle shaft?

2. What is the easiest way to install clip on the new u-joint?

1. At home remove the clips then in a 8" bench vise with a 1-1/8" socket on one side and a 3/4" on the other squeeze until the cap on the 1-1/8" falls out then repeat the process the other way. On the trail relpace the vise and 3/4" socket with a 5" or 6" C-Clamp and a buddy you still need the 1-1/8" socket.

2. Put the new u-joint (and full round clips if using them) in the axle and one cap in place, turn the 1-1/8" around and press the cap in place (watch the needle bearings, try and keep the u-joint body in the cap) don't worry about going to far in with the cap; now put the c-clip or snap ring on that cap. Now due same thing for the other cap, you can put some pressure on the oposite side cap because the c-clip is in place to prevent it from pushing out.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
Broncojohn is offline  
post #5 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 07:10 AM
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews

You can do it with a vise, but I've found a U-Joint tool, like the cheap ones from Harbor Freight, make the job a whole lot easier. The first UJ I ever changed took me forever, the next one was easier, and double cardans become easy too after a couple of times.

BroncoJohn pretty much sums up the simplest way of doing it. Putting them together is usually the easiest part. If the UJ has a grease nipple on the cross, on some shafts you have to pay attention to the location of the grease nipple.
PhilD is offline  
post #6 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 08:32 AM
Alec W
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

I happened to do my first UJ on Saturday. Getting the old one out was by far the hardest part and we used a vice and I must admit to using a BFH also

Can someone provide a Harbor Freight link for a good UJ tool?
post #7 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 08:43 AM
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews

This is the one I use:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=38335

They also do a ball joint tool that can also be used for UJ's:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=4065
PhilD is offline  
post #8 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 12:39 PM
Alec W
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

Thanks Phil
post #9 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Posts: 242
Feedback: 0 reviews

Thanks for all the information everyone. Hopefully the next JK U joint I change is easier than one I changed yesterday.
Duke is offline  
post #10 of 25 Old 08-25-2008, 10:46 PM
JKO Addict!
 
Broncojohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 43
Posts: 2,522
Garage
Feedback: 0 reviews

I just found my next trail tool purchase. That looks so much better then my c-clamp.

Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
Broncojohn is offline  
post #11 of 25 Old 08-26-2008, 09:03 AM
Rock God
 
NE Wrangling's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: massachusetts
Posts: 1,042
Feedback: 0 reviews

Someone should make a install instruction for the site the next time someone uses one of these. I'd volunteer but have no need to rip it apart right now.
NE Wrangling is offline  
post #12 of 25 Old 08-30-2008, 09:31 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 326
Feedback: 0 reviews

It's actually easier using just a small 6oz hammer, and a pair of needle nose pliers to change the ujoints if you know what you are doing. Granted I used to build and repair them professionally 7 years ago, but it's really funny rebuilding a driveline u-joints both front and rear for someone in less time than it took for them to walk into the house and grab a drink of water.

Last trail repair was in the snow when a bronco snapped the rear ujoint on the rear yoke when it wrapped up. Pulled the slip off, knocked the ujoint out without ever touching it, putting the new one back in and got him back on the road.
Imkunfused is offline  
post #13 of 25 Old 09-03-2008, 08:32 PM
Wheeler
 
ColinW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 93
Feedback: 0 reviews

Those CTM instructions seem a little confusing to me and I read it twice too...once you get one cap (I'll call it cap 1) into place and put the other one (I'll call it cap 2) in, you're supposed to push on cap 2 to get the snap ring of cap 1 to seat enough so that you won't be able to turn the snap ring by hand...got that part. Now, once you get cap 2 pressed in far enough to where the snap ring groove is fully visibile beyond the flat inside portion of the yoke, you put the snap ring on....now this is the part I don't get - Then you're supposed to push on cap 1 to get cap 2's snap ring seated - won't by doing so unseat cap 1's snap ring so you could then turn it by hand? Kinda seems like a vicious cycle to me.

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "HOLY $HIT...WHAT A RIDE!"
ColinW is offline  
post #14 of 25 Old 09-03-2008, 08:56 PM
Rock God
 
mcnaught6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: HellPaso, TX - Fort Bliss
Age: 38
Posts: 1,304
Feedback: 0 reviews

if i'm following your question right....once you get snap ring 1 seated, you should be able to push on it to get the other side in without is coming unseated. once it is in place, it won't just pop back out without you taking it out with something like a balljoint tool. the pressure from its "outward springyness" (i just made that term up) will hold it in place.
mcnaught6 is offline  
post #15 of 25 Old 09-03-2008, 10:16 PM
Wheeler
 
ColinW's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 93
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by mcnaught6 View Post
if i'm following your question right....once you get snap ring 1 seated, you should be able to push on it to get the other side in without is coming unseated. once it is in place, it won't just pop back out without you taking it out with something like a balljoint tool. the pressure from its "outward springyness" (i just made that term up) will hold it in place.
Still not understanding...the cap is one piece with the snap ring groove machined into it's surface...if you push on the end of the seated cap so you can seat the other snap ring (snap ring 2), won't it unseat the snap ring (snap ring 1) that's already pressed up against the inside of the yoke? Where would the outward springyness come from?

Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting "HOLY $HIT...WHAT A RIDE!"
ColinW is offline  
post #16 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 11:38 AM
JKowners Vendor
 
Woods's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, Ca.
Posts: 1,295
Feedback: 9 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imkunfused View Post
It's actually easier using just a small 6oz hammer, and a pair of needle nose pliers to change the ujoints if you know what you are doing. Granted I used to build and repair them professionally 7 years ago, but it's really funny rebuilding a driveline u-joints both front and rear for someone in less time than it took for them to walk into the house and grab a drink of water.

Last trail repair was in the snow when a bronco snapped the rear ujoint on the rear yoke when it wrapped up. Pulled the slip off, knocked the ujoint out without ever touching it, putting the new one back in and got him back on the road.
K, Imkunfused. Now I'm confused. I'm just not seeing a U-Joint replacement only using a small hammer and pliers. Do tell how...

Woods Storage Tub Enlargement Kit - Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit - Evap Can Relocation Kit Muffler Relocation Kit - Tailgate Shock Kit
Buy Woods Kits at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Woods is offline  
post #17 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 12:22 PM
Super Moderator
 
StubEXrube's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Austin Texas
Posts: 14,907
Garage
Feedback: 5 reviews

Driveshaft u-joints a lot easier to replace than axle shaft u-joints? Maybe that is the confusion? Just wondering...as I've yet to replace either.
StubEXrube is offline  
post #18 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 12:41 PM
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woods View Post
K, Imkunfused. Now I'm confused. I'm just not seeing a U-Joint replacement only using a small hammer and pliers. Do tell how...
You use some needle nosed pliers to remove the clips, and usually a socket or two along with the hammer to remove and replace the UJ.
PhilD is offline  
post #19 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 03:09 PM
JKowners Vendor
 
Woods's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, Ca.
Posts: 1,295
Feedback: 9 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
You use some needle nosed pliers to remove the clips, and usually a socket or two along with the hammer to remove and replace the UJ.
I'll pay fifity bucks to the first guy that shows me a video of himself removing a U-Joint on a JK axle with a 6 oz hammer and socket or two. And be honest, don't remove the thing, take a die grinder to it then video it, or use heat... I'm an honest guys and this is an honorable bet.

Woods Storage Tub Enlargement Kit - Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit - Evap Can Relocation Kit Muffler Relocation Kit - Tailgate Shock Kit
Buy Woods Kits at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Woods is offline  
post #20 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 04:04 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 326
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woods View Post
I'll pay fifity bucks to the first guy that shows me a video of himself removing a U-Joint on a JK axle with a 6 oz hammer and socket or two. And be honest, don't remove the thing, take a die grinder to it then video it, or use heat... I'm an honest guys and this is an honorable bet.
If someone wants to send me the ujoint (5-760x (I think) ), I'll gladly show you how to do it. The lesson on how to replace ujoints will be well worth it when you dont have to spend $$ on tools to press the caps out. If my shafts were old enough I'd just replace the joint but it's not worth it right now to go buy a set of spicer joints, and I gave away my last 760x when I sold my YJ a few weeks back.

Also it doesnt require the use of a socket either. If anyone is local to sacramento, CA and needs a joint replaced I'll gladly show you my secrets, we can film it, and Woods can donate the $50 to Blue Ribbon or Friends of the Rubicon
Imkunfused is offline  
post #21 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 04:04 PM
Alec W
Guest
 
Posts: n/a

I got mine off with a hammer. But is wasnít the 6 oz variety, I used a 3 lb club hammer AKA BFH
post #22 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 04:15 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 326
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alec W View Post
I got mine off with a hammer. But is wasnít the 6 oz variety, I used a 3 lb club hammer AKA BFH
It's all about location. You use the vibration from the hammer hits and the ujoint moving up and down because of it to force the joint out.

Besides the needle bearings scattering to god knows where when the cap jumps out, the joint and caps are completely untouched
Imkunfused is offline  
post #23 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 04:30 PM
JKowners Vendor
 
Woods's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Costa Mesa, Ca.
Posts: 1,295
Feedback: 9 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imkunfused View Post
It's all about location. You use the vibration from the hammer hits and the ujoint moving up and down because of it to force the joint out.

Besides the needle bearings scattering to god knows where when the cap jumps out, the joint and caps are completely untouched
Well worth the fifty bucks.

Anybody want to buy a used U-Joint press?

Woods Storage Tub Enlargement Kit - Steering Stabilizer Relocation Kit - Evap Can Relocation Kit Muffler Relocation Kit - Tailgate Shock Kit
Buy Woods Kits at:
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Woods is offline  
post #24 of 25 Old 09-04-2008, 05:12 PM
Granite Guru
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Sparks, NV
Posts: 326
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Woods View Post
Anybody want to buy a used U-Joint press?
keep the press, you never know when you will find a joint that just wont budge, but 98% of the time you shouldnt need it.
Imkunfused is offline  
post #25 of 25 Old 09-25-2009, 05:39 PM
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Valparaiso, Indiana
Age: 38
Posts: 81
Feedback: 0 reviews

Quote:
Originally Posted by Imkunfused View Post
It's all about location. You use the vibration from the hammer hits and the ujoint moving up and down because of it to force the joint out.

Besides the needle bearings scattering to god knows where when the cap jumps out, the joint and caps are completely untouched
I saw a write up on line when I was searching u-joints. Guy used a small hammer and some sockets. Here it is.

http://www.4x4wire.com/tech/axle/ujoint/

Doug
Valparaiso, IN

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


2007 Steel Blue X Unlimited
Rubi D44 up front with chromo shafts, riddler cover, and CTM u-joints
4" Frankenlift
black steel wheels
35" AT's
Rock Hard bumper and tire carrier
Nate's 4x4 frnt winch bumper
(custom chopped into a stubby)
Rubi rails
Rock Hard skids
KC 8" driving lights
KC 6" driving lights on KC windshield mounts
Tuffy console insert
mr_natural78 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in









Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome