3.8 Timing Chain - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 24 Old 12-21-2009, 06:09 PM Thread Starter
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3.8 Timing Chain

I've had a chattering noise coming from the bottom front of my engine now for 3 months... it sounds like a diesel but not in a good way
So far I've replaced the water pump, idler pulley, and eliminated the other mounted components like A/C compressor, and power steering.

The only thing left is the timing chain.

I'll be tackling this project in the next week or so and would like to know if anyone has done this yet, and if the 3.8 has a timing chain tensioner.

Any tricks/ advise would be appreciated!



I have the vague Jeep maintenance manual and all the basic appropriate tools including a sprocket puller.

(No more warranty)

Thanks!


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post #2 of 24 Old 12-21-2009, 06:52 PM
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If that is a picture of a 3.8, then no tensioner. If you want step up to a double roller type chain it shouldn't cost you much more.

Have you checked the oil pump? Depending on the type it could make a racket too.

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post #3 of 24 Old 12-21-2009, 07:36 PM
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Take the bolt off the cam gear, when you start to pull it the chain will get loose when the gear comes off the cam. When you go to put the new chain on make sure that the cam and crank is in the same position. Put the chain on the crank rod then put in on the cam gear and start to slide it on. Make sure that you are still lined up.


The best way to do this is make sure the motor is top on #1 cylinder.
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post #4 of 24 Old 12-21-2009, 07:40 PM
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x2, be on TDC compression stroke for cylinder one. Do not turn the engine over after it's there. You'll likely need a gear puller or two to get this done.

The engine ever ingest water? How many miles? Timing chains are usually good for...ohh about 100,000-200,000 miles without problems. (my point being it's pretty unlikely!)

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post #5 of 24 Old 12-22-2009, 06:17 AM Thread Starter
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[QUOTE=The engine ever ingest water? How many miles? Timing chains are usually good for...ohh about 100,000-200,000 miles without problems. (my point being it's pretty unlikely!)[/QUOTE]

I'm at 40k and agree the timing chain is unlikely to be jacked...

Somethin's makin the diesel sound and while the chain cover is off, I plan to measure the oil pump rotors. The oil pump may be the source of the racket.

The engine has not been abused and has never ingested water.


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post #6 of 24 Old 12-22-2009, 07:26 AM
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I would say that an oil pump is much more suspect than the timing chain--have NEVER had a timing chain issue on any Jeep in the last 12 years.

I assume you eliminated all the easy stuff first, like exhaust leak, loose bolts on the manifold, etc.?

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post #7 of 24 Old 12-22-2009, 08:04 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeep School View Post
I would say that an oil pump is much more suspect than the timing chain--have NEVER had a timing chain issue on any Jeep in the last 12 years.

I assume you eliminated all the easy stuff first, like exhaust leak, loose bolts on the manifold, etc.?
Yup- I'm certain the easy stuff is "out".

After I open the cover, the current plan is to measure chain play, and look at the cover for wear.
Then I'll measure the oil pump rotors (as specified in the maint manual)

Taking a good look inside the oil pan in on the list also...

If the timing chain looks fine- I'm certainly going to leave it alone


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post #8 of 24 Old 12-22-2009, 08:18 PM
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How difficult is it to replace the oil pump? Sorry for the dumb question. I think that I have the same issue. Are you burning an excessive amount of oil also?
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post #9 of 24 Old 12-22-2009, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
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How difficult is it to replace the oil pump? Sorry for the dumb question. I think that I have the same issue. Are you burning an excessive amount of oil also?
If your burning oil its not the oil pump doing that.
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post #10 of 24 Old 12-23-2009, 05:43 AM Thread Starter
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How difficult is it to replace the oil pump? Sorry for the dumb question. I think that I have the same issue. Are you burning an excessive amount of oil also?
The oil pump is contained in the timing chain cover housing. To get access to it you must remove the alternator, oil pan and crankshaft damper.

No... I'm not burning oil.

If you're burning oil the piston rings are probably effed.


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post #11 of 24 Old 12-26-2009, 03:39 PM
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Sweet piston rings...

That sounds out of my pay grade to fix. Any suggestions?
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post #12 of 24 Old 12-27-2009, 10:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Sweet piston rings...

That sounds out of my pay grade to fix. Any suggestions?
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If not that, run it till it quits then swap a used 3.8 over the costs of repair


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post #13 of 24 Old 12-27-2009, 10:28 AM
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How many miles are on this thing? Does it make the noise at all times (i.e. all engine speeds) or is it intermittent?

As far as sounding like a diesel, are you just saying that it's noisy, or does it have the poppling sound of a diesel engine at idle?
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post #14 of 24 Old 12-29-2009, 07:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MaJiK hat View Post
How many miles are on this thing? Does it make the noise at all times (i.e. all engine speeds) or is it intermittent?

As far as sounding like a diesel, are you just saying that it's noisy, or does it have the poppling sound of a diesel engine at idle?
40k miles...

It's better described as a "rattle" noticeable only at idle.

It's there all the time, but gets louder when the engine's warm

The rattle definately comes from the timing chain cover area.

I'll post pics of the timing chain/ oil pump in the next few days (hopefully with the verdict)


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post #15 of 24 Old 01-03-2010, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE

After dissasembling half the engine, I found wear on the inside of my timing chain cover

---This is what I thought the problem was---

According to the service manual, you can have up to 1/8" play in the chain... I had exactly 1/8", so I replaced the chain set.

Then I blended the wear area on the cover to prevent future chain contact.




While I was at it, I replaced the oil pump also ( which measured out OK)

A warranty would have covered this if I had it.....AND if a dealer actually admitted there was a problem.

I was quoted $1,800.00 to look at/ replace the timing chain, and I did it with basic tools and a rental crank puller.

Ten "good" hours in the Garage and $120 bucks


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post #16 of 24 Old 01-03-2010, 06:19 PM
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nice job , all good now?


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post #17 of 24 Old 01-04-2010, 07:30 AM Thread Starter
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nice job , all good now?


Drove it last night & no more noise. I only forgot one cannon plug on the side of the case. (The oil light came on and dam near gave me a heart attack)

ALL GOOD


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post #18 of 24 Old 05-10-2013, 09:55 AM
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I realize that I'm bringing this thread back from the dead, but is this how your bad timing chain sounded?

http://youtu.be/vjVFsOZVd6s

I have 50k on mine. I thought it was a lifter at first and pulled the heads and replaced them all with no results. Pulled the pan last week and found this, so I'm thinking I have a dead-ringer.

http://youtu.be/fQfGKHAsIGY

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post #19 of 24 Old 05-10-2013, 10:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTDanPup View Post
I realize that I'm bringing this thread back from the dead, but is this how your bad timing chain sounded?

http://youtu.be/vjVFsOZVd6s

I have 50k on mine. I thought it was a lifter at first and pulled the heads and replaced them all with no results. Pulled the pan last week and found this, so I'm thinking I have a dead-ringer.

http://youtu.be/fQfGKHAsIGY
That looks like a lot of swap, but here is how to measure the chain and sprockets for wear:

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

1. Position a scale next to timing chain so that any movement of chain may be measured.

2. Position a torque wrench and socket on the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply force in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack to the following torque:
41 Nm (30 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads installed
20 Nm (15 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads removed

NOTE: With torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block crankshaft to prevent rotation.

3. Hold a measuring scale along edge of chain links.

4. Apply force in the reverse direction to the following torque:
41 Nm (30 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads installed
20 Nm (15 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads removed

5. Measure amount of sprocket/chain movement.

6. Install a new timing chain and sprockets if movement exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 in.).

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post #20 of 24 Old 05-10-2013, 11:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ronjenx View Post
That looks like a lot of swap, but here is how to measure the chain and sprockets for wear:

STANDARD PROCEDURE - MEASURING TIMING CHAIN WEAR

1. Position a scale next to timing chain so that any movement of chain may be measured.

2. Position a torque wrench and socket on the camshaft sprocket attaching bolt. Apply force in the direction of crankshaft rotation to take up slack to the following torque:
41 Nm (30 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads installed
20 Nm (15 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads removed

NOTE: With torque applied to the camshaft sprocket bolt, crankshaft should not be permitted to move. It may be necessary to block crankshaft to prevent rotation.

3. Hold a measuring scale along edge of chain links.

4. Apply force in the reverse direction to the following torque:
41 Nm (30 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads installed
20 Nm (15 ft. lb.) with cylinder heads removed

5. Measure amount of sprocket/chain movement.

6. Install a new timing chain and sprockets if movement exceeds 3.175 mm (1/8 in.).
Thanks for the tip, but to be quite honest, if I were to go to the trouble of gaining access to the camshaft sprocket bolts, I would just go ahead and replace the timing set (gears and chain) anyhow. You would have already done all the hard work by the time you get access. Everybody does things their own way, but that's just the way I was taught. I guess it would be different if I were planning to tear the engine down a few more times in he future.

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post #21 of 24 Old 05-10-2013, 11:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by angryhippie View Post
After dissasembling half the engine, I found wear on the inside of my timing chain cover

---This is what I thought the problem was---

According to the service manual, you can have up to 1/8" play in the chain... I had exactly 1/8", so I replaced the chain set.

Then I blended the wear area on the cover to prevent future chain contact.




While I was at it, I replaced the oil pump also ( which measured out OK)

A warranty would have covered this if I had it.....AND if a dealer actually admitted there was a problem.

I was quoted $1,800.00 to look at/ replace the timing chain, and I did it with basic tools and a rental crank puller.

Ten "good" hours in the Garage and $120 bucks
Where exactly did you find the wear on the timing cover and what do you mean when you say that you "blended" the wear area? Was the oil pump a dealer/Mopar item?

Thanks for this thread, btw.

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post #22 of 24 Old 05-16-2013, 12:31 PM
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Sonova.....I have the SAME issue. I just bumped a dead
thread about it too!

I took it into the dealer and even spoke with the Service
Manager. They say its a rod.....I say, its as much a rod
as it is the Glow Plugs.

It is the EXACT noise.

EDIT:

Here is my first post.....I deleted it so it wouldn't be posted in two threads:

I hope nobody minds if I bring this back from the dead but....

I'm having this same identical issue. I took it to the Stealership
and they tell me its a ROD! I am having the EXACT noise, exact
scenario. They WILL NOT listen to what I am suggesting.

It only ticks when warm. It ticks only at idle. I have no power loss.
It sounds like a diesel.

I just listened to a VM from the Service Manager and he states:

"I had 4 different techs listen to the tick and we have determined it
was the rod....The #4 rod to be exact." -Exact quote.

So...they have requested ALL of the records for oil changes.
I'm guessing so they can get out of the warranty work.

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post #23 of 24 Old 08-06-2013, 12:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LTDanPup View Post
I realize that I'm bringing this thread back from the dead, but is this how your bad timing chain sounded?

http://youtu.be/vjVFsOZVd6s
Quote:
Originally Posted by BobRoss46n2 View Post
Sonova.....I have the SAME issue. I just bumped a dead
thread about it too!

I took it into the dealer and even spoke with the Service
Manager. They say its a rod.....I say, its as much a rod
as it is the Glow Plugs.

It is the EXACT noise.
Did either of you guys replace the timing chain and confirm the noise is gone? I have 110k on my '08 and the youtube video you posted is a duplicate of my noise. Basically like a diesel! Isn't there when it's cold, and isn't constant depending on load.

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post #24 of 24 Old 08-07-2013, 12:10 PM
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[subscribed]

I have a very similar sound. It has been diagnosed as being bearings in the transmission to a loose cat in the exhaust. But I think this just may be it. I'll try to get a better listen to the front of the engine. Its tough to nail down because it isn't always present.

Similar to as red_smoke stated, it's not common when engine is cold and depending load. Can be duplicated though in second gear by driving with the brake pedal slightly depressed.


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