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Old 03-17-2013, 01:19 PM   #1
maniacal_rick
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Locking the D30, Upgrade to 30 spline?

Looking for some input here, I'm planning on locking the D30 in my JK. Only running 35" tires at the moment, but 37's wouldn't be out of the question sometime in the future...i will add that 37's would be the largest tire I will run on the D30/44 combo.

Anyhow, Does anyone have any experience with upgrading to a 30 spline locker and inners? I cant see a reason NOT to do it...unless the difference from the 27 to the 30 is so negligible it wouldn't warrant the cost.

Any feedback would be great...Im planning my axle build in the next few weeks.

Thanks
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:38 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
Looking for some input here, I'm planning on locking the D30 in my JK. Only running 35" tires at the moment, but 37's wouldn't be out of the question sometime in the future...i will add that 37's would be the largest tire I will run on the D30/44 combo.

Anyhow, Does anyone have any experience with upgrading to a 30 spline locker and inners? I cant see a reason NOT to do it...unless the difference from the 27 to the 30 is so negligible it wouldn't warrant the cost.

Any feedback would be great...Im planning my axle build in the next few weeks.

Thanks
save and spend the money on the PR44....
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Old 03-17-2013, 01:45 PM   #3
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A PR44 is 5k, vs building a D30 which will be 1800-2k. The PR44 cant possibly be worth that much more in performance. For that price I would rather build 60's.
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Old 03-17-2013, 02:57 PM   #4
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A PR44 is 5k, vs building a D30 which will be 1800-2k. The PR44 cant possibly be worth that much more in performance. For that price I would rather build 60's.
Yeah, everyone with a PR44 or better will tell you to save your money for the next year or more, and spend the 5K. Weather or not it is worth the coin is pretty subjective. Of course, in retrospect, that is the way to do it...but for most people, half and brain, and some C gussets/truss will get you by just fine with moderate wheeling. If your forte is strictly hardcore buggy type trails, you have no business in a locker D30.

If I were you, I would leave the stock shafts as your weak link, and purchase a spare set. What locker are you looking at?
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Old 03-17-2013, 03:06 PM   #5
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My rig is a 2012 6 speed, with 3.21's. Im upgrading to ARB's front and rear and 4.56's, with an Artec Truss in the front. I just need to figure out what route to go with the axles. I think im going to stick with the 27sp axles and order chromo's. Then I can swap them and have spares.
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Old 03-17-2013, 05:54 PM   #6
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Locking the D30, Upgrade to 30 spline?

Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
A PR44 is 5k, vs building a D30 which will be 1800-2k. The PR44 cant possibly be worth that much more in performance. For that price I would rather build 60's.
Even sleeving and gusseting a d30 doesnt even match the strength of a pr44. Thats not even taking the ring and pinion into consideration. Another thing to consider when people say "i would rather just get a 60", is yes its just a few thousand more, but you would also need new wheels on top of that to match the bolt pattern. Steering, etc.
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Old 03-17-2013, 06:41 PM   #7
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I appreciate the feedback. I'm not buying a PR44. Even building an axle and buying new rims, it would still be way cheaper to buy a D60.


Once again. Not buying a PR44.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:10 PM   #8
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I think people are trying to tell you the D30 is not worth spending money on. I wish I had not put money into mine and spent that money toward a better solution. You don't have to listen, but you did ask.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:11 PM   #9
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So you're buying the PR44?
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:14 PM   #10
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So you're buying the PR44?
No, he wants to blow his money on his D30 THEN look into the PR44
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:18 PM   #11
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i think you should get the PR44...
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:21 PM   #12
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Many people run locked D30s with absolutely no issues. Of course, there are those that do, things break, more common with a 30? Sure. A few hundred dollars in reinforcements and some common sense will get you a long was. Far cry from the 5K that is a PR. Not everyone needs these upgrades to have fun wheeling

I would not upgrade the stock shafts though. Keep them as your constant weak link, vs adding chromoly shafts and making your R&P the weak link. Adding a quality locker will actually decrease your chances of ring and pinion failure from what I understand as a result of the added carrier strength. Although, it certainly increases the chances of shaft breakage.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:30 PM   #13
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No, he wants to blow his money on his D30 THEN look into the PR44
He said no on the PR44. Speaking in reference to potential "D30 regret" down the road does not help
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:34 PM   #14
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All I'm doing is the artec truss kit up front on my d30 and end up running trutracs front and rear with 488's in my '10. When the 30 goes ill invest in 44 or 60. I too will only be running a 37"
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:36 PM   #15
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You asked a question about the D30 and your surprised when every swinging dick chimes in with buy a PR44 . (that being said, the PR44 is badass and rock solid if you have the money.) I ran a D30/D44 combo with 37's for about a year and a half. Including multiple moab trips and alot of local wheeling. It is sleeved gusseted and geared. That being said, I am sitting here with a D30 that is bent longside at the diff, bent c (through gusset), and blown driver side axle seal. But I am not by any means a light easy going driver. Locking the D30 will put alot of strain on it so if you are going to do it GET selectable. The ARB that you stated is perfect. If you are going to truss, gusset, sleeve etc the D30 I would go ahead and do the Super 30 Kit with ARB. It'll do just fine for you. I know guys who can break D60's with 35's and guys who can run 40's on a D30. Of course you'll always have more issues with the underbuilt than overbuilt. But if you've made the 30 last this long it means you know how to drive well enough for your style to make it last with some reinforcement.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:39 PM   #16
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I think people are trying to tell you the D30 is not worth spending money on. I wish I had not put money into mine and spent that money toward a better solution. You don't have to listen, but you did ask.
I live in Charlotte. Im lucky if I will take my rig out once a month. The D30 is a suitable axle for my needs. Yes, I did ask...about 30sp vs 27 sp. axles and lockers. Not about Prorock44's. I completely agree that a PR44 would be a better option, but if were talking about something I dont need, then why not suggest PR60s or Portals? I would love to drop +5k per axle in my rig...but its not in the budget and I dont need it.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:44 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
I live in Charlotte. Im lucky if I will take my rig out once a month. The D30 is a suitable axle for my needs. Yes, I did ask...about 30sp vs 27 sp. axles and lockers. Not about Prorock44's. I completely agree that a PR44 would be a better option, but if were talking about something I dont need, then why not suggest PR60s or Portals? I would love to drop +5k per axle in my rig...but its not in the budget and I dont need it.
If you are that light of a wheeler bud as I said above keep the D30, do some pretty cheap insurance by strengthening (truss, sleeve, gusset etc) and the Super 30 Kit.
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:49 PM   #18
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Chromo shafts or RCVs? Auto locker or selectable?
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:49 PM   #19
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I ran a d30 with 35's for three years with 5.13's, gussets and an aussie locker. I kept my factory shafts as the weak link. I broke two axle shafts and I would say my housing or c's are bent to a degree by the way it sits. I spent money on my d30 and always had to wonder when it will break, (not IF it will break.) It really sucks to be the guy that is taking the bypass on trails and the guy that breaks his shaft on the bunny hill. I am now taking delivery tomorrow of a PR44 with RCVs. If I had to do it again I would have gone PR44 from the beginning. I will now be worried about the rear 44 and "When" it will break. Then it will be 60 or 14 in the rear.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:11 PM   #20
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He said no on the PR44. Speaking in reference to potential "D30 regret" down the road does not help
Speaking from experience sometimes helps, I've got it and you don't.


Quote:
Originally Posted by maniacal_rick View Post
I live in Charlotte. Im lucky if I will take my rig out once a month. The D30 is a suitable axle for my needs. Yes, I did ask...about 30sp vs 27 sp. axles and lockers. Not about Prorock44's. I completely agree that a PR44 would be a better option, but if were talking about something I dont need, then why not suggest PR60s or Portals? I would love to drop +5k per axle in my rig...but its not in the budget and I dont need it.
I never said drop 5 grand that you don't have on an axle. I said think about spending the money you want to dump into the D30 on something that's going to last. I never suggested any particular axle or product.

If you are only an occasional wheeler then what are you worrying about spline count and spending 2 grand on an axle that is already suitable for your needs?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:15 PM   #21
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Speaking from experience sometimes helps, I've got it and you don't.
Burn lol
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:18 PM   #22
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Here's my D30:

5.13s, aussie locker, Nitro axle shafts, C gussets, control arm skids, custom truss/brackets, Poly ball joints.

Locked on 35s for 3 years of hard wheeling. And I am going to be running 37s on beadlocks here shortly now that i trussed the 30 and added hydro steering. If you want to build your 30 go for it. Alot of people bad mouth it but the fact is that once your gears have worn in - assuming they have been set up correctly and broken in properly - most of them are pretty solid. When the JK 30 came out, it had a significantly thicker ring gear. I'm not saying that makes the ring and pinion anywhere close to bomb proof but it does add strength over the previous generation D30s.

I don't know if its worth the money to go 30 spline, but i will tell you that the Nitro shafts are well worth the coin. They use the same size U joints as stock rubi shafts - must cromo shafts use the smaller 4130 size. The ears are just enough to be thicker than the regular 30 ears...and they are all cromoly. I have wheeled them with the spicer u joints they came with and it is holding up fantasticly. I ordered mine from Jeep Add Ons on here - i think i dealt with Chris. I got one of the first sets produced.

I highly recommend the nitro shafts. I don't really wonder if or when my 30 will break.
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:20 PM   #23
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Speaking from experience sometimes helps, I've got it and you don't.
Lol! Funny Guy!
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:23 PM   #24
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Lol! Funny Guy!
Do you think he even lifts?
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Old 03-17-2013, 08:46 PM   #25
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Do you think he even lifts?
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