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Old 07-23-2012, 08:18 PM   #1
hitekrdnk43
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Removing rear brake rotors

Anyone know of an easier way to remove the rear brake rotors? I've lossened up the E-brake adjuster, used Blaster on the hub, and beat the shit out of it with a 2lb sledge. Still cant get it to even budge.
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:28 PM   #2
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That's about all you can do. Just keep hitting alternate sides with a bfh. I used a 4# for hundreds of BMW rotors.


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Old 07-23-2012, 08:28 PM   #3
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did you take off the factory retainers?
http://www.highperformancestangs.com...1/P1010016.JPG

and you hitting in between the studs, not the brake surface correct?
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Old 07-23-2012, 08:57 PM   #4
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Yep, I'm hitting between the studs and the brake retainers are off. I had hoped that there might be a better way then beating the crap out of it.
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Old 07-23-2012, 09:09 PM   #5
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stupid question, but did you remove the caliper?

Also, if you need to loosen the e-brake cables...they can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. easy

I replaced all my rotors at one point..they just fell off after removing the caliper..don't know why your having issues...

post a picture of both sides of your set up.
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Old 07-23-2012, 10:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fourplyn View Post
stupid question, but did you remove the caliper?

Also, if you need to loosen the e-brake cables...they can be removed with a pair of needle nose pliers. easy

I replaced all my rotors at one point..they just fell off after removing the caliper..don't know why your having issues...

post a picture of both sides of your set up.
Cuz he's from the East Coast where they put shit all over the roads in the winter and everything rusts together.
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Old 07-24-2012, 12:37 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by hitekrdnk43 View Post
Anyone know of an easier way to remove the rear brake rotors? I've lossened up the E-brake adjuster, used Blaster on the hub, and beat the shit out of it with a 2lb sledge. Still cant get it to even budge.
Nah just keep at it. I'm in Michigan so I know your pain, you can try and fit a hydraulic puller, but that's about it
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Old 07-24-2012, 05:57 AM   #8
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i have done many brake jobs in the past and by far the rears on my JK were the worst to do. It all has to do with the stupid e-brake set up. I had such a huge lip of rust on the indide of the rotor that no amount of star wheel adjustment would allow these things to come off. Lots and lots of hammering the living shit out of the rotors finally did the trick. Now every time i rotate the tires i take the extra time to remove the rotor and sand down the lip on the inside of the rotor...a little preventative maintenance makes changing these a piece of cake.
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:05 AM   #9
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i had mine at 27,000 miles fall off as soon as the calipers were off.

not in the salty northeast, though...
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Old 07-25-2012, 12:27 AM   #10
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East cost, first replaced the rears at 45K miles. No problems getting the rotors off. I put some anti-seize on the backs before replacing to avoid any problems in the future.

E-brake is a useless piece of shit, won't hold the jeep still on level ground in a breeze. Besides, I got an auto trans.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:54 AM   #11
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Yep, I'm hitting between the studs and the brake retainers are off. I had hoped that there might be a better way then beating the crap out of it.
I never understood why techs did it this way. I am assuming you are replacing the rotor? It seems to work pretty poorly and usually the only option with drums, but with discs it just seems counter-productive.

Hit the rotor OFF the studs. From the backside, where the caliper rides. Rotate the rotor and hit it again. A steel hammer will destroy the rotor, but I bet it'll come off much faster.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:05 AM   #12
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unless your re-using the rotor , yeah if your replacing the rotor hit the rotor surface
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Old 07-27-2012, 03:34 PM   #13
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I usually start by going around the center of the rotor/hub with a wire-wheel. Then I hit it with some penetrating oil. While that's doing it's thing I crawl underneither the vehicle and back off the adjusting screw as much as possible. If I can't remove the rotor at that point I lay down on the ground and hit the back side of the rotor with my rubber-faced dead blow hammer as hard as I can. That usually does the trick. It also doesn't fuck up the rotor at all.

If the parking brake shoes are really seated in the hat of the rotor not allowing for removal, then you might be able to cut the ends off the pins that hold the shoes to the backing plates. I'm not sure how the JK is setup, but I've done this on other vehicles. It allowed me to get enough access to remove the adjuster, followed by the brake shoes.
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Old 07-27-2012, 07:38 PM   #14
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HOW TO EASILY REMOVE REAR ROTORS...

Here is how I get them off, 1st off, beating them off is just plain silly. (unless you have anger issues then commence banging)

1st-remove caliper and hardware. 2nd-you have to dial down the e-brake adjuster if applicable)

Here's the MAGIC-

I go back to 70-80's and beyond technology, as I do still have an 80's CJ.

Do you remember when all the old rear drums came with two tapped out screw holes? What we did was insert two bolts and screw them into the drum, bolts hit the axle flange and the drum was forced off of the shoes. The issue is the same today with the hat in rotor brake pads have etched inside and it needs to be forced or "pressed" off just like the old time drums.

So here is the easy fix...drill two holes, let's say 9 and 3 o'clock (doesn't matter as long as they are across from each other) stay inside of the lugs as you want to hit the flange underneath. Drill out just deep enough to penetrate the rotor. (you will probably put two small dimples in flange, won't hurt anything) I strongly suggest using some tap/drill oil, not necessary but saves drill bits.

Now tap both holes with flat head tap and place two grade 5 or 8 bolts and crank down on them uniformly. I think I use 3/8 course tap. Provided your taps were good, you will see the hat in rotor slowly pull off. Sometimes I just use impact but it kills your tapped holes, if you want to reuse, those holes come in handy for next change! Or...

In a rush situation, I just use two taps, no bolts and hat in rotor comes off cranking down on taps!

HELPFUL TIP....drill and tap 2 new holes on NEW ROTORS so next time you can get off super easy.

I do this on every car/truck I work on and my wrists thank me...
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Old 07-29-2012, 03:21 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLEEDNJEEP View Post
Here is how I get them off, 1st off, beating them off is just plain silly. (unless you have anger issues then commence banging)

1st-remove caliper and hardware. 2nd-you have to dial down the e-brake adjuster if applicable)

Here's the MAGIC-

I go back to 70-80's and beyond technology, as I do still have an 80's CJ.

Do you remember when all the old rear drums came with two tapped out screw holes? What we did was insert two bolts and screw them into the drum, bolts hit the axle flange and the drum was forced off of the shoes. The issue is the same today with the hat in rotor brake pads have etched inside and it needs to be forced or "pressed" off just like the old time drums.

So here is the easy fix...drill two holes, let's say 9 and 3 o'clock (doesn't matter as long as they are across from each other) stay inside of the lugs as you want to hit the flange underneath. Drill out just deep enough to penetrate the rotor. (you will probably put two small dimples in flange, won't hurt anything) I strongly suggest using some tap/drill oil, not necessary but saves drill bits.

Now tap both holes with flat head tap and place two grade 5 or 8 bolts and crank down on them uniformly. I think I use 3/8 course tap. Provided your taps were good, you will see the hat in rotor slowly pull off. Sometimes I just use impact but it kills your tapped holes, if you want to reuse, those holes come in handy for next change! Or...

In a rush situation, I just use two taps, no bolts and hat in rotor comes off cranking down on taps!

HELPFUL TIP....drill and tap 2 new holes on NEW ROTORS so next time you can get off super easy.

I do this on every car/truck I work on and my wrists thank me...
That's an interesting idea. I remember some of the older Ford vehicles had threaded holes in the rotor so you could use a puller on them. I don't think they were through holes though. I think they were blind holes and somewhere around 1/4-20 in size.
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