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Old 11-17-2008, 07:44 PM   #1
BLACKJK08
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BEST LIFT FOR ROAD USE?

Well I do hate to admit it but a sold 95% of the time my RUBI is strickly a pavement pounder..However I cant drive anything the way it comes off the show room and JEEPS need to be lifted and rimed uped. So my question is with 35s which lift seems to drive the best on the road as a daily driver. Any suggestions and comments are needed and welcomed. The 3" Fabtech seems to be the direction Iam thinking until someone with more knowledge steps in and steers me elsewhere.
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Old 11-17-2008, 07:59 PM   #2
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if you never wheel it, you can put a budget boost on it it fit 35's. Save your money.
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:10 PM   #3
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check out the Rustys 3.25" kit . Its a breeze to install , and it flexes very well. Its rated as one of the better factory like rides . I installed my kit in about two hours, by myself . It clears 35" tires . It costs about $600 after shipping. There customer service is very good. I ordered my kit from Rusty himself.

Site: rustysoffroad.com
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Old 11-17-2008, 10:24 PM   #4
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Fabtech kit is alot harder to install. Talked to the local shop when I was looking and they said it took then 6 hrs with two guys. Lots of holes to drill. I have been running the Rustys kit for about 15,000 miles. The only thing you must do is to install a better that stock steering stabilizer . Heres my JK with the Rustys kit and 35" tires
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:12 AM   #5
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If you just want to fit 35's...the suggestion to install a 2" BL is perfect, then, you're DONE as far as lift.

If the 35's are 12.5 section width, etc...then add 1.5" wheel spacers, or rims with 1.5" less BS or so.

If you DO offroad it a bit, and want to keep the factory ride and center of gravity, etc, as close to stock as possible...add a set of good shocks with more wheel travel, so you get the same articulation as a JK with a suspension lift, but w/o raising the COG...use shocks with a travel of 16" - 27".

The 35's will fit, and be able to articulate well, and the Rubi will be a total of 3.5" taller than stock.

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Old 11-18-2008, 05:19 AM   #6
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One thing to keep in mind. Getting 35's you might want to consider regearing too, because you will notice that the transmission might start hunting for a gear if you live in a hilly area.
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Old 11-18-2008, 05:24 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mountain-man View Post
The only thing you must do is to install a better that stock steering stabilizer .
Not always. Lots of folks run 35's and 37's with the stock one. I did for 26k miles on my last JK.

Anyways if I was going for a mainly street rig lift... 2.5" Budget boost from Teraflex with the shock extension brackets. You will clear 35's, you can still go off road and only get some rubbing but nothing to cause damage. The kit will run you $264 ship to your door through Northridge. Then add on some wheel spacers, or new wheels with different back spacing, and run your 35ís
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:11 AM   #8
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Quick HiJack - Then Back to Regularly Scheduled Program

I am also thinking 35" as the look in awesome. My biggest concern is that I have an Unlimited X Auto. With the front D30 handle the 35's weight wise.

I will do some off road. Probably more trail rides and mud, not a lot of rock climbing.

Any input on lift is appreciated?
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:48 AM   #9
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that 30 should be fine with the 35" tires as long as you are not a skinny pedal freak. I ran 35's on the stock D30 on my X for a long time with no issues. Just be smart about how you wheel.
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Old 11-18-2008, 06:52 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordon2 View Post
I am also thinking 35" as the look in awesome. My biggest concern is that I have an Unlimited X Auto. With the front D30 handle the 35's weight wise.

I will do some off road. Probably more trail rides and mud, not a lot of rock climbing.

Any input on lift is appreciated?
The new D30's are more like the old D44's in strength...and the old D30's were even ok with 35's if you were not stupid with the go go juice....

...so, similarly, the new D30's should be fine with 35's.

If you live where its very hilly/mountainous, etc...gearing might be an issue...if you have the 3.21's...yes, with 3.73's, most of us flatter landers are OK, as 35's are only a little taller (~ 8.6%) than the stock 32's, etc....if really sloped terrain, well, lower gears always are better for torque/worse for mpg.

(For comparison...if you got 3.21 diffs instead of 3.73 diffs, that ALONE would be a ~ 13.9 % change, etc...)

And, its not so much the WEIGHT difference, as the LEVERAGE DIFFERENCE with a taller tire...as the imagined lever arm from the center of the hub to the ground is longer, requiring more force to propel you....and, exerting more force on your drive train, etc.

The weight plays a role, but its secondary to the force multiplication affect.

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Old 11-18-2008, 01:51 PM   #11
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i AM GONNA REGEAR and have already purchased a set of front and rear 5.13s. I know alot of people say 2.5" for the lift however I do want it to sit nice with an aggressive stance. I have owned 3 other Jeeps befoe this one but they were all 2 door and this is my first 4 door as well as JK and it almost seems like 35's and a 3" lift are the bare miniumums to get a nice look to it. Then again Iam going solely on pics and have yet to see one in person with this setup locally. iam not so worried about the install time since my best friend owns a shop and does the work almost for free.And as far as the cost of the lift i have no problem spending the extra cash for quality so that I can do it right the first time and try to avoid haviong regrets and switching it up. I have also purchased all the basics as far as trying to gain as many ponies as I can so there is a little go with the show. Like I said I got the 5.13's,Airaid Intake,Hypertech Max chip,and still ??? on which exhaust seems to be the one of choice. Thanks you again for all the tips, advice, and opions and just hope you guys keep it coming. i really appreciate the help since I DO NEED IT......
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:10 PM   #12
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Here is my old 2 door. 2.5" spacer lift and 315-75-16's Xterrains. so a 35" tire (really measured more like 34.75").







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Old 11-18-2008, 02:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKJK08 View Post
i AM GONNA REGEAR and have already purchased a set of front and rear 5.13s. I know alot of people say 2.5" for the lift however I do want it to sit nice with an aggressive stance. I have owned 3 other Jeeps befoe this one but they were all 2 door and this is my first 4 door as well as JK and it almost seems like 35's and a 3" lift are the bare miniumums to get a nice look to it. Then again Iam going solely on pics and have yet to see one in person with this setup locally. iam not so worried about the install time since my best friend owns a shop and does the work almost for free.And as far as the cost of the lift i have no problem spending the extra cash for quality so that I can do it right the first time and try to avoid haviong regrets and switching it up. I have also purchased all the basics as far as trying to gain as many ponies as I can so there is a little go with the show. Like I said I got the 5.13's,Airaid Intake,Hypertech Max chip,and still ??? on which exhaust seems to be the one of choice. Thanks you again for all the tips, advice, and opions and just hope you guys keep it coming. i really appreciate the help since I DO NEED IT......
Based on that post, I wouldn't do anything less than a TeraFlex 3" or 4" long arm system. I have a TF 6" LA myself and it handles great on the road. The available articulation is awesome as well. My JK is a DD and it's nowhere near a chore to drive, very pleasant and enjoyable.
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Old 11-18-2008, 02:31 PM   #14
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The best lift IMO for what you want is probably the AEV-Nth degree set up. (AEV-Conversions.com).

It is the only lift I know of that is actually engineered by a former Jeep suspension engineer to perform better on the street than a factory suspension and still deliver what is needed off-road. The springs are frequency tuned and matched to custom valved Bilstiens. No one else does this. No one.

Sure a budget boost will allow you to clear 35s but it is not really the "best lift for the street". It is only the cheapest way to do it. That is all. You still end up with springs that are too soft and cheap shocks or shocks that are the wrong length and valving. Not to mention that your front and rear axle are out of alignment without changing the track bars. (but they tell you that is okay with a small lift.......um NO).

I see a lot of comments on forums like "easy to install" or "tires fit with no rubbing" etc etc. This does not make a kit good or bad. Installing one manufacturers springs or spacers vs anothers is no different. The only time things really change is when going to some custom long arm set up. Which is not really needed on the JK to run 35s.

Go to the AEV site, read about the lift, check out their forums and the "testing photos" at the Chrysler proving grounds and decide for yourself.
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Old 11-18-2008, 03:59 PM   #15
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[QUOTE=Xtremjeepn;55593]The best lift IMO for what you want is probably the AEV-Nth degree set up. (AEV-Conversions.com).

It is the only lift I know of that is actually engineered by a former Jeep suspension engineer to perform better on the street than a factory suspension and still deliver what is needed off-road. The springs are frequency tuned and matched to custom valved Bilstiens. No one else does this. No one.

Sure a budget boost will allow you to clear 35s but it is not really the "best lift for the street". It is only the cheapest way to do it. That is all. You still end up with springs that are too soft and cheap shocks or shocks that are the wrong length and valving. Not to mention that your front and rear axle are out of alignment without changing the track bars. (but they tell you that is okay with a small lift.......um NO).

I see a lot of comments on forums like "easy to install" or "tires fit with no rubbing" etc etc. This does not make a kit good or bad. Installing one manufacturers springs or spacers vs anothers is no different. The only time things really change is when going to some custom long arm set up. Which is not really needed on the JK

Thanks bro I really appreciate it. You should consider doing sales for their company since i was almost ready to buy after reading your post. Iam gonna check it out now. You oretty much validated every point I had in question. I was dead set against doing a body lift and like I ssaid have no problem for laying out cash as long as quality and performance is the outcome. Thank You again for your ttime to break that down and explain it.
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Old 11-18-2008, 07:45 PM   #16
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If you want the best ride quality, I'd steer you toward a long arm suspension--not that the ride quality is unacceptable with the standard short arms, it's just that much better with a long arm setup....even at the milder lift height you're talking about.

Looking at the Tera longarm offerings, there are a few parts included with the 4" as compared to a 3", at a minimal cost difference--so I'd say the 4" longarm. Another reason for that is that you'll be ready for 37" tires with that lift, you're gearing appropriately for larger tires anyway, and typically people tend to gravitate toward larger lifts/tires as they progress anyway, so skipping the incremental steps will save you money in the long term.

The AEV stuff mentioned above is nice, but they don't offer a longarm setup for JK's.
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Old 11-19-2008, 04:09 PM   #17
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Quote:
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If you want the best ride quality, I'd steer you toward a long arm suspension--not that the ride quality is unacceptable with the standard short arms, it's just that much better with a long arm setup....even at the milder lift height you're talking about.

Looking at the Tera longarm offerings, there are a few parts included with the 4" as compared to a 3", at a minimal cost difference--so I'd say the 4" longarm. Another reason for that is that you'll be ready for 37" tires with that lift, you're gearing appropriately for larger tires anyway, and typically people tend to gravitate toward larger lifts/tires as they progress anyway, so skipping the incremental steps will save you money in the long term.

The AEV stuff mentioned above is nice, but they don't offer a longarm setup for JK's.
Well if you have time and would be willing to throw me a quote on the 4" kit that you think would be the one that I would enjoy I would appreciate it.
Thanks
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:08 PM   #18
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Well if you have time and would be willing to throw me a quote on the 4" kit that you think would be the one that I would enjoy I would appreciate it.
Thanks
No problem, I'll get that for you tomorrow after I get to work.
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Old 11-19-2008, 07:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TeraFlex View Post
If you want the best ride quality, I'd steer you toward a long arm suspension--not that the ride quality is unacceptable with the standard short arms, it's just that much better with a long arm setup....even at the milder lift height you're talking about.

Looking at the Tera longarm offerings, there are a few parts included with the 4" as compared to a 3", at a minimal cost difference--so I'd say the 4" longarm. Another reason for that is that you'll be ready for 37" tires with that lift, you're gearing appropriately for larger tires anyway, and typically people tend to gravitate toward larger lifts/tires as they progress anyway, so skipping the incremental steps will save you money in the long term.

The AEV stuff mentioned above is nice, but they don't offer a longarm setup for JK's.
I would go with what he said, Go Longarm and I would say go for the 4" since after wheeling a few times you'll wish you had 37's!
I personally love my Terra Kit plus it gets some Awesome flex!
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Old 11-21-2008, 08:07 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLACKJK08 View Post
Well I do hate to admit it but a sold 95% of the time my RUBI is strickly a pavement pounder..However I cant drive anything the way it comes off the show room and JEEPS need to be lifted and rimed uped. So my question is with 35s which lift seems to drive the best on the road as a daily driver. Any suggestions and comments are needed and welcomed. The 3" Fabtech seems to be the direction Iam thinking until someone with more knowledge steps in and steers me elsewhere.
THANKS

You're getting alot of good info in this thread. Take a real good look at what your longterm expectations are for the Rubicon. You have an extremely capable offroad rig. That's where it shines. I am very happy with my longarm setup but it's not cheap. It performs awesome on and off road. I happen to use mine mostly offroad, but as I said it rides like a Cadillac on the road. Very stable as Jeeps or any lifted rig goes.
From reading this thread, I get the sense that the sickness is setting in. Remember what Jeep stands for. Just Empty Every Pocket.

In the interest of fairness, there are some very knowledgeable guys that feel the stock arms on the JK are long enough where a long arm lift is not required until you get up into the 40" tire range. Do your homework until you are 95% sure, since thats the percentage of road time it will see.
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Old 11-22-2008, 07:41 AM   #21
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Longterm outlook on my Jeeps use is almost always roaduse. When it does see off road it is going down a trail run in line with 20 others. As far as I know at this point I will not be rock crawling or doing any of the crazy **** I see you guys pulling off in the pictures. Which I say it beyond impressive but my geographical location limits me to that. I just live in a local where there is no areas to bring an offroad rig and abuse it the way it should. I however do still love them and want to build not only an eye pleasing but very enjoyable to drive
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Old 11-25-2008, 05:38 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEEJ View Post
If you DO offroad it a bit, and want to keep the factory ride and center of gravity, etc, as close to stock as possible...add a set of good shocks with more wheel travel, so you get the same articulation as a JK with a suspension lift, but w/o raising the COG...use shocks with a travel of 16" - 27".

The 35's will fit, and be able to articulate well, and the Rubi will be a total of 3.5" taller than stock.

this is a good thread. Is the quote above accurate? Can one just get longer shox and increase Rubicon articulation and fit 35's? Seems off.

I too will drive my Rubi JK 95% on road as my daily driver. But when I do go off road about 3x per year, I wheel pretty hard!

So, on a budget, but not wanting to do this over and over again. how many inches of suspension lift should I be looking for?

Also, what about body lift? Should I do a modest suspension lift and then add another 1-2" of body lift also? When would you want to do one v. the other or both?

I'll be running stock tires until they wear out, then go a bit bigger, but not too much. Again, 95% on road, 5% HARD off road.
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Old 11-25-2008, 06:28 PM   #23
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this is a good thread. Is the quote above accurate? Can one just get longer shox and increase Rubicon articulation and fit 35's? Seems off.

I too will drive my Rubi JK 95% on road as my daily driver. But when I do go off road about 3x per year, I wheel pretty hard!

So, on a budget, but not wanting to do this over and over again. how many inches of suspension lift should I be looking for?

Also, what about body lift? Should I do a modest suspension lift and then add another 1-2" of body lift also? When would you want to do one v. the other or both?

I'll be running stock tires until they wear out, then go a bit bigger, but not too much. Again, 95% on road, 5% HARD off road.
The part about getting longer shocks to increase articulation can work. Although to fit the 35's you'll need some lift. If you re-read TEEJ's post note that he mentions a 2" body lift along with the longer shocks and 35's. This would be a good budget way to go I guess. I am not sure how much a 2" body lift costs but it couldn't be more than a budget boost.

The biggest differences between going BL vs BB is the BB will give you more ground clearance to your frame. The BL will help keep the COG lower. So depending on what your looking for.
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Old 11-25-2008, 07:08 PM   #24
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why not both? 1 or 2" body lift and 2" of Budget Boost with longer shox?

Again, when does one use body lift versus suspension lift?
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Old 11-25-2008, 08:11 PM   #25
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how much are you willing to spend, and how much surgery are you willing to perform/have performed.

a long arm kit with well chosen/designed shocks will give the best ride, but will cost the most to purchase and install and is the most invasive to install - once you do it, your options for changing afterwards are little to none....unless you want to keep the same lift and go bigger.....

just because you can cheaply fit 35's with a 2" BB or BL, doesn't mean it will give you the best on-road ride.

you asked for the best on-road ride. you didn't ask for the cheapest or easiest to accomplish. big difference.
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