Installing rear axle shafts - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum  

Go Back   JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum > JK Tech > Write Up Dept. (The Library)

JKOwners.com is the premier Jeep JK Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
Share Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 10-12-2008, 12:08 PM   #1
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Installing rear axle shafts

Replacing the Jeep Wrangler JK rear axle shafts with the Superior Evolution Rear Axle Kit is a relatively simple task. The kit comes complete with both axle shafts, bearings seals, collars, and wheel studs. There are different kits for the Rubicon Dana 44 (32 spline) and non Rubicon Dana 44 (30 spline).

If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.

  • Retaining Plate - Mopar 68008523AA (2 required)
  • Retaining Plate Nut - Mopar 68003275AA (8 required)
  • ABS Tone Ring - Currie CE-11320 (2 required)

Superior Axle shaft compared to factory shaft. They look very similar, the difference is in what they are made of and the cold-formed rolled spline process that produces axle splines that are up to 35% stronger than traditional cut splines. The way the bearings are fitted also differs slightly.


First thing you will need to do is press on the ABS tone rings. These need to clear the shaft collar by approx 1/8"-1/4", do not go further than 3/8" or they will no longer line up with the ABS sensors. The opening of the tone ring should be facing outwards towards the hub end of the shaft.


Apply grease to the axle seal and place the retainer plate axle seal on to the shaft, followed by the bearing and collar. The inner bearing surface is chamfered on one side, which indicates the way it goes on the shaft, chamfered side towards outboard end of shaft. Then press the bearing and collar on to the shaft, until the bearing seats on the lip on the shaft. Every time you have built up pressure with the press, it is a good idea to release the pressure and rotate the shaft in the press 90, this insures that bearing and collar are being pressed on evenly.


Installing the shafts is simple, exlcuding the lug nuts there are just seven bolts/nuts that need to be undone for each shaft. First, remove the caliper and rotor, then undo the four retaining plate nuts.


Remove the bolt on the ABS sensor and pull the sensor back so it is out of the way, there is no need to remove it.


The bearings are lubricated by the differntial fluid, so it is a good idea to tilt the axle up slightly so as not to spill diff fluid when you remove the shaft.


The shaft should just pull out, very slight force with a pry bar will help it un-seat if it is stuck.


Looking inside the housing you can see the diff fluid (showing the reflection of the bearing).


Bolt in the Superior lug nuts, some blue Loctite will ensure they do not move. Grease the bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease, in this case Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, wipe any excess grease off the bearing mounting surface.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 10-12-2008, 12:09 PM   #2
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Place the new shaft back into the axle, there is no need to force it, once you have the splines lined up it will easily just slide in. Use new torque nuts for the retaining plate and torque to 45 ft/lbs.


Before installing the rotor and caliper, replace the ABS sensor and ensure that it is over the ABS tone ring. Then install the rotor and caliper and torque the caliper bolts to 75 ft/lbs.

Replace the wheel and re-check all the bolts/nuts. Check all nut/bolts again after 500 miles.

The factory shafts can be cleaned, greased and kept as spares. Wrapping the bearing/seal/etc in masking tape will help keep them clean. Doing the same for the splines will help protect them.


http://www.trailduty.com/tech/rear_a...fts/index.html
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 11:38 AM   #3
walker
Wheeler
 
Join Date: May 2008
Member # 1287
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 30
Feedback: 0 reviews
Hi PhilD!

Does this look right to you? Why does your superior axle have fewer bolt holes than mine? The dealer wants like $4.80 PER retainer plate nut, can I use something else? Thanks!

walker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 11:58 AM   #4
mcnaught6
Rock God
 
mcnaught6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Member # 471
Location: HellPaso, TX - Fort Bliss
Age: 35
Posts: 1,304
Feedback: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by walker View Post
Hi PhilD!

Does this look right to you? Why does your superior axle have fewer bolt holes than mine? The dealer wants like $4.80 PER retainer plate nut, can I use something else? Thanks!

yours are drilled for multiple lug patterns. you only need five of them.
mcnaught6 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 12:03 PM   #5
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by walker View Post
Does this look right to you? Why does your superior axle have fewer bolt holes than mine?
I believe Superior now ship the shafts with both 5x5 and 5x5.5 bolt patterns.

Quote:
The dealer wants like $4.80 PER retainer plate nut, can I use something else?
You can re-use the nuts. You are not supposed to and the FSM clearly states not to, but plenty of people do.

Quote:
WARNING: Never reuse axle retainer nuts. Used torque nuts can loosen up. Failure to follow these instruction may result in personal injury.
I bet just about everyone who had new gears installed re-used the nuts, I know mine were re-used and I put 40k miles on them with no problems.

You can get them on-line for a little less, but by the time you've paid shipping it would be about the same. You could try a local specialty bolt company and see if they have them, I believe they are 12 x 1.5mm torque nuts.

I shelled out for new ones, as the cost was just a small part of the overall job, and I'd rather do it right and not have to worry about them. If you do re-use them, a splash of Loctite wouldn't do any harm, and then just check them every so often.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 12:18 PM   #6
walker
Wheeler
 
Join Date: May 2008
Member # 1287
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 30
Feedback: 0 reviews
Thanks for the info! Have you done a write-up on the fronts yet?
walker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 12:21 PM   #7
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by walker View Post
Have you done a write-up on the fronts yet?
Haven't installed them yet, but will be soon. The fronts should be just as easy though, if not easier.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 10-20-2008, 12:31 PM   #8
walker
Wheeler
 
Join Date: May 2008
Member # 1287
Location: ABQ, NM
Posts: 30
Feedback: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by PhilD View Post
Haven't installed them yet, but will be soon. The fronts should be just as easy though, if not easier.
Great! I have my CTM "45" u-joints on the shafts, and I am ready to do it. Just looking for some sage advice.

Thanks again!
walker is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-04-2008, 06:28 PM   #9
YmansJK
Granite Guru
 
YmansJK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Member # 1146
Location: Indio, CA
Posts: 314
Feedback: 0 reviews
I usually use blue loctite. no worries
__________________
2008 Stone White 2DR X
Cutsom TJ front 2" springs with 2 spacers
Teraflex rear 3" 4dr. springs heated so they actually sit 3" on my 2dr
Custom rear shock mounts
285x75 R16 Treadwright MTRs Yeah they rock soon to be 315x70 R16
Xenon Narrow Flares
Woods Steering Stabilzer Bracket
Teraflex rear driveline
Mopar Frt bumper made Stubby
KC Slimlites
Bikini Top
Custom exhaust - Flowmaster single chamber with Woods tail pipe
Lots of Beer Consumption
YmansJK is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-04-2008, 08:42 PM   #10
bofer84
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 1633
Posts: 50
Feedback: 0 reviews
just wondering why you decided to go with these, vs some chromoly shafts??
bofer84 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 12-05-2008, 05:08 AM   #11
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by bofer84 View Post
just wondering why you decided to go with these, vs some chromoly shafts??
Mainly because when I bought them, which was some time ago, there were no chromoly shafts available. I've no real concerns about the Superior shafts, they are stronger than stock and will do the job just fine. They made their front ones out of chromoly as it was more needed there.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-10-2009, 01:55 PM   #12
Dr.Dirty
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 1569
Location: Hesperia Ca
Posts: 8,566
Feedback: 21 reviews
How and the heck do you get the bearings and retaining plate off I need to reuse my stock tone ring and I'm having no luck
Dr.Dirty is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-10-2009, 02:15 PM   #13
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr.Dirty View Post
How and the heck do you get the bearings and retaining plate off I need to reuse my stock tone ring and I'm having no luck
In the past I've drilled the collar with a 1/2" bit, making sure you don't drill into the shaft, then used a chisel and hammer to finish it off. I've never found an easier way of removing the collar.

The bearings usually come off easily once you have the collar removed.

The tone ring should just come off by gently going around it with a pry bar, otherwise just use a press.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-10-2009, 02:21 PM   #14
Broncojohn
JKO Addict!
 
Broncojohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 1571
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 41
Posts: 2,522
Feedback: 0 reviews
PhilD. Do the instuctions tell you to grease the bearing or lube with gear oil? It looks like the bearings are lubricated by the gear oil and don't need greased.
__________________
Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
Broncojohn is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-10-2009, 02:39 PM   #15
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Broncojohn View Post
It looks like the bearings are lubricated by the gear oil and don't need greased.
They are, but I always grease them anyway, just so they start life greased okay. I know it will get washed off by the lube, but I'd just rather make sure that they are adequately lubed to start with.
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2009, 04:53 AM   #16
Broncojohn
JKO Addict!
 
Broncojohn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 1571
Location: Dallas, Texas
Age: 41
Posts: 2,522
Feedback: 0 reviews
That's cool, always better to be on the safe side.
__________________
Obama, The greatest gun salesman since the invention of firearms.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jscwerve View Post
This is exactly why we need to practice proper gun control.

If he was aiming down the sights correctly and had plenty of practice rounds under his belt, there would only be one side of this story.
Broncojohn is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2009, 11:23 AM   #17
Dr.Dirty
Banned
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Member # 1569
Location: Hesperia Ca
Posts: 8,566
Feedback: 21 reviews
i ended up cutting them of with the grinder lol


all gears and chromos front and rear are all installed and im lovint it
Dr.Dirty is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-11-2009, 03:30 PM   #18
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Cool
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-13-2010, 09:01 PM   #19
SoK66
JKO Addict!
 
SoK66's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Member # 4483
Location: Four Corners
Posts: 3,265
Feedback: 2 reviews
Phil, sorry to bump this old thread but I have a set of these on the way. A couple questions, did you disassemble the stock shafts to get to the retainer plate & tone ring, or did you source new parts? I see you have listed a Currie number for the tone ring. Is there a Chrysler service part or do I need to get with Currie?

I'm a little PO'd at my vendor. He told me they came pre-assembled with tone ring, etc., and were plug & play. Apparently not.
SoK66 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-31-2010, 05:44 AM   #20
SoK66
JKO Addict!
 
SoK66's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Member # 4483
Location: Four Corners
Posts: 3,265
Feedback: 2 reviews
Phil, thanks for the great write up on this. Saved me a ton of guess work re: the tone ring depth.
SoK66 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-31-2010, 11:12 AM   #21
PhilD
TrailDuty.com
 
PhilD's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Member # 143
Location: Texas
Posts: 5,205
Feedback: 5 reviews
Glad it was useful :-)
PhilD is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 04-20-2011, 08:16 AM   #22
jeep02apex
Wheeler
 
Join Date: Jan 2011
Member # 13346
Age: 28
Posts: 85
Feedback: 0 reviews
As far as the bearings go...I am having issues figuring out which bearing to use (buying new)

Timken part # SET10AZ
SKF part # BR10

Both listed as "Wheel bearing - Rear"

OR something like the Omix-Ada part # 1653605 listed as "axle shaft bearing - rear"

Or ar they all the same damn thing?
jeep02apex is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-05-2011, 06:07 PM   #23
charles
Granite Guru
 
charles's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Member # 8233
Location: Denver
Age: 33
Posts: 316
Feedback: 0 reviews
I did this today. I couldn't get my axles out even by prying lightly against the drum brake. I found that if you put the disc back on backwards and thread the nuts on a little you can use the disc as a slide hammer. Worked perfectly. And, if you are tying to figure out which axle is longer or shorter, make sure you have the lug nuts threaded on. I was trying to put the long axle in the sort side
charles is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 05-30-2011, 05:56 PM   #24
johnmcd
Rock God
 
johnmcd's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Member # 4881
Location: Raleigh, NC 4 hours from anywhere, atleast!
Age: 35
Posts: 1,189
Feedback: 0 reviews
Great write up as always, pulled my shafts to replace a few broken studs long story. I used the fliped rotor trick, my shafts wouldnt budge.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by H.I.I.K View Post
Ok We need to organize a "Strippers and Blow Trail Run" It can raise money for college scholarships
Raleigh Meet and Greet,
Check the thread -------------> HERE
johnmcd is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 09-21-2011, 08:11 AM   #25
fourplyn
JKO Addict!
 
fourplyn's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Member # 5388
Location: Denver, Crawlorado
Age: 41
Posts: 3,317
Feedback: 1 reviews
Hey PhilD..I just replaced my left rear axle inside an hour.. Really easy thanks for the info.
__________________
- 07' Rubicon 4 dr, RAMICON- 3.5" ROCK KRAWLER Coil-Over lift
- 5.38 gears- Gusseted/Trussed/inner sleeved
- 40" Pro Comp X-Terrain
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35749
fourplyn is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 04:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.