JK dana 30 Aussie Locker Install

[WTF_LOL]

JK D30 Ausie Locker Install


Just finished installing an Aussie locker in my D30. I have not seen any JK specific installs out there so I thought I would do a quick write up to hopefully save others a couple of headaches I ran into. Thank you A Plumber for letting me use your garage and K-bear for all your help! I owe you guys one!

Sorry I didn't get more pics, I kept forgetting throughout the install.




I used a write up from 4x4xplor.com (for a TJ) as well as the Aussie supplied instructions:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/aussielocker.html
http://www.offroadlockers.com/display/Manual_d.pdf

Aussie Locker (XD-13027):
http://www.aussielocker.com/item.php...0/310025/.html

Riddler Diff Cover:
http://www.trailduty.com/product_inf...roducts_id=619

Dana 30 Lube LOcker (LLR-D030):
http://www.lubelocker.com/products/catalog.html




Tools needed:

• 2 quarts 75w-90 Synthetic gear oil (85w-140 if towing)
• Funnel or pump
• Brake cleaner
• Oil drain pan
• Tub of grease
• Feeler gauge
• Marker
• Small screw driver
• Socket wrench and the following sockets: 1/2, 5/8, 11/16, 21mm and a 12 point 13mm
• Chisel
• Narrow Crow Bar
• Hammer
• 2.5 lb club hammer
• Torque Wrench
• Breaker Bar
• 3/16 "long" punch
• A good Bench vise (found this out too late!)
• Gasket Scraper
• Jack
• Jack stands
• Wheel Chocks
• Lug Nut wrench (or 19mm socket)
• Zip ties
• PB blaster
• Metal file
• 3/8 Allen Wrench (for Riddler diff cover supplied fill plug)
• a friend and a couple of Beers!

Install:

1. Engage parking Brake, Chock rear tires, Break free lug nuts on front tires (do not remove, just loosen them). Jack up front axel and place Jack stands under front axel and remove jack. Remove both the front tires.
   
   
   
   
2. Place your Oil drain pan under differential. Using a 3/8 socket wrench, Remove fill plug. Next, remove Differential drain plug from the bottom of the differential.
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Using a 1/2 socket, remove all the diff cover bolts except the top most bolt. Loosen this bolt but leave it in so your diff cover doesn't go flying when you crack it loose. Otherwise, No matter where in the garage you put the Oil drain pan, the cover will fall in it spilling gear oil everywhere.
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Use a chisel and hammer to crack open the cover. Lightly tap the chisel in between the cover and diff housing until it opens up. YOu may need to lightly tap in a couple of places rather then just driving it in one spot. Take special care not to gouge the housing. Once the cover breaks open, remove the top bolt and fully remove cover. Spray inside with some brake cleaner to remove the rest of the oil. Take a moment to inspect the housing for any unusual wear or excessive metal shavings.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
5. NOTE TO SELF, STOP HITTING HEAD ON SHACKLE!!
   

[WTF_LOL]

1. There are two 21mm bolts holding the Brake calipers on. Remove both these bolts taking care to not let the caliper drop. Set the calipers on your Lower Control Arms and secure in place with some Zip ties. Along your brake line you will see the ABS wiring running down to the brakes. They have a rubber sleeve that is wedged into a bracket in two places. Remove the wiring from the bracket. They will remain attached into the brakes, just remove them from the bracket.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. On the back side of each Spindle there are three 12 point 13mm bolts. It may be a good idea to soak these before you begin as they can be a PITA. Remove all three of these on each side.
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Once you have removed all three bolts, pull your axel out about 6 inches, basically just far enough to get the axel out of the differential and let them hang. Make sure though that you do not over extend the ABS wiring.
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Using a 5/8 socket, remove the two bolts holding each of the two bearing caps on. Before you remove the caps, be sure to mark them so they get reinstalled on the same sides and in the same orientation. Set them aside someplace they will stay clean.
   
   
   
   
   
   
5. Next, you will need to remove the carrier from the differential housing. In the past, I have been able to just pull this out by hand. This time, it took using a crowbar wedged between the housing and the back of the carrier and pounding with a 2.5lb hammer to get it free. Just take your time and be conscious with each swing where the crowbar is. Try to place it between the housing and the carrier in a way that it will force it out rather then up and be sure not to damage any of the gears or bearings. Once it gets close to coming out, make sure it does not drop to the floor.
   
   (forgot to get a pic of this. Just put the crowbar between the bottom of the diff housing and the bottom of the carrier being careful not to hit any gears or bearings)
   
   
   
   
   
6. Now that you have the carrier out, clean off all the gear oil with some brake cleaner and look over all the gears for any unusual wear. Set carrier on a clean bench. Set the spacers and bearing races aside someplace clean making a note of which one goes on which side.
   
   
   
   
   
   
7. Use a gasket scraper to remove all the RTV from the diff housing. USe some brake cleaner to clean out the inside of the housing. Check for any burs or dents from the crowbar. If there are any burs remove with metal file but take car to not damage the matting surface.
   
   
   
   
8. Back to the carrier. Mark the Ring gear and the housing so it will be install in the same location. Place the carrier into a bench vice. Remove all the bolts that hold the ring gear to the carrier using a 11/16 socket. This is why it was important to have a good bench vise! (we didn't and it was a PITA until we got something figured out). Once all bolts are removed, tap the ring gear loose and set aside.
   
   
   
   
   
   
9. On the top of the carrier, near one of the bolts you just removed, there is a small hole. Use the 3/16 "long" punch to drive the pin out that secures the pinion shaft in place. Now, remove the pinion shaft. Set both aside to be used again.
   
   
   
   
   
   
10. Now you can remove the spider gears. The two that had the pinion shaft going through them will come out as you rotate the other two gears. YOu can set all four gears aside as they will not be used again but the Thrust washers will be getting reused. Be sure to make a note of which side they came from and their orientation. Once again, clean up the carrier with some brake cleaner.
    

[WTF_LOL]

1. Take a look at this picture from Aussie's website for a moment to see how the locker will be assembled. The spacers look a little different then the picture. The spacers supplied have a lip. The flat side will go towards the inside against the pinion shaft.
   
   
   
   
   
   
2. Grease up the matting surfaces of the Aussie locker to assist in assembly.
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Place the Thrust washers you set aside on axel gears in the proper orientation. Insert the left and right axel gears into the carrier. Place the Right and left spacers onto the axel gears. Spread the gab between the two spacers with a pry bar and Slide the Pinion shaft into the hole it came out of. You need to check the tolerance between the spacers and the pinion shaft using the feeler gauge. At first it may seem to tight. It is important to spread them all the way as the thrust washers have some spring to them (at first we did not realize this and thought we would need some thinner Thrust washers). The tolerance on each side of the shaft should be between .006 and .020. Make a note of your results as Aussie requires this information for warranty issues. You can now remove the pinion shaft and Spacers but leave the Axel gears and Thrust washers in place.
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. Place the spacers into the cam gears and insert both into the carrier.
   
   
   
   
5. Now is time to install the pins and springs. Each Cam gear has four holes in the face of it. Two open holes and two partially open holes. Slide a pin into each of the partially open holes. It is important to insert them with the "stepped" side of the pin facing toward the outside of the locker.
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. Now rotate the Cam gears until the pin lines up with one of the closed holes on the other side. Slide the pin down into the hole. Now you need to use a small screwdriver to install the springs. The spring should go into the partially open side (where the pin was) and seat properly on the "stepped" end of the pin. Repeat this for all four pins.
   
   
   
   
   
   
7. Once all four pins are in, rotate the locker so the pinion shaft recesses align with the pinion shaft hole in the carrier. Insert the pinion shaft. Drive the pin back into the carrier that holds the pinion shaft in place.
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
8. Now you need to check the center gap. The gap between the two Cam gears should be between .145 and .170.
   

[WTF_LOL]

1. If that all looks as it should, place the carrier back into the vice to reinstall the ring gear. Tighten the bolts (in a star pattern) and then torque down to 80 ft. lbs.
   
   
   
   
   
2. Before installing the carrier back into the diff housing, clean up the carrier, bearings, housing and anything else to be sure no debris will be left once installed. Place the bearing race and spacers on the proper sides and insert the carrier back into the differential housing. The carrier most likely will not slide all the way back in. Place the bearing caps on in the proper orientation. As you tighten these down it will pull the carrier back in. Torque the Bearing caps to 45 ft. lbs.
   
   
   
   
   
   
3. Rotate the axles so that you can slide them back into place. Torque the Spindle bolts down to 75 ft. lbs.
   
   
   
   
   
   
4. If you are also using a Lube Locker gasket, then you can now put it into place and install your diff cover by torquing the bolts to 35 ft. lbs. Otherwise follow the proper procedure for using RTV. Be careful as it is easy to over torque and break a bolt! (hence the single stock bolt in the cover, lol)
   
   
   
   
   
5. Cut the Zip ties that where holding your Brake calipers and reinstall them to 110 ft.lbs.
   
   
   
   
   
   
6. Re mount your tires and tighten the lug nuts. You can now check your locker by following this procedure:
   

   Originally Posted by Aussie Locker

   1. Put the transmission in gear and the transfer case in 4WD to lock the drive shaft. Tires must be installed to complete this test.
   2. Rotate one of the tires until it stops against the locked drive shaft. Hold it in position and maintain moderate pressure.
   3. Rotate the other tire in the opposite direction. It should unlock and spin, with the locker clicking as thetire rotates. Note that this sound will be less with the cover on and gear oil inside.
   4. Rotate the first tire in the opposite direction until it stops, and again maintain pressure.
   5. Rotate the second tire in the opposite direction from the first time. It should switch directions. Both tires should rotate in both directions and the locker should click as they are doing so.
   7. If your installation passes this “spin” test, you are ready to finish up.

   
   
7. If everything looks good, jack the axel up, remove jack stands, lower vehicle and torque the lugnuts down to 95 ft. lbs.
   
   
   
8. Reinstall drain plug and fill differential with gear oil. If you are using the stock cover, fill to the bottom of the fill hole. If you are using a larger diff cover like the riddler, people have reported oil blowing out the breather hose if they will it all the way up. I filled it to about 3/4 of an inch below the fill hole and have not had oil blow out yet but I suppose we will see on the next warm day. I will report back if this was too much. Install fill plug.

[WTF_LOL]

That should be it! Back up right over your chocks since you now have a badass 4x4 rig!



I will provide some feedback here as soon as I get a chance to check it out!

[a plumber]

Nice job, where did you go today? I know you just got that cover on last night, and it looks like you wheeled already

[WTF_LOL]

Originally Posted by a plumber

Nice job, where did you go today? I know you just got that cover on last night, and it looks like you wheeled already

I went to Bill Moore lake again. See the bottom of this thread:
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1843

I didn't have a chance to give it a real work out but from what I did it worked great! There was deffinetly a couple of off camber snow drifts that where way easier then they would have been without it! Hopefully I will have a chance to give it a good work out soon so I can report back on how it did.

[nam6869usmc]

Originally Posted by WTF_LOL

I went to Bill Moore lake again. See the bottom of this thread:
http://www.jkowners.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1843

I didn't have a chance to give it a real work out but from what I did it worked great! There was deffinetly a couple of off camber snow drifts that where way easier then they would have been without it! Hopefully I will have a chance to give it a good work out soon so I can report back on how it did.

Excellent Write-Up/with Pic's....I was going to do one with my Aussie D30 Install but it would of been a lot shorter than your
#1- Receive Aussie Locker
#2- Drive to 4X4 Shop & Drop Off
#3- Go back at 4 PM pay a Rediculous Install Fee & Drive Home.
I think the Aussie made my JK a Completely different Wheeler.

[airric00]

What's up Chris?? Hey how do you like the Aussies?? Glad you experimented on yours, now when I get to Denver you can help me put mine in!! Did you notice a huge difference?? Any additional noise while driving on roads?

[WTF_LOL]

Originally Posted by airric00

What's up Chris?? Hey how do you like the Aussies?? Glad you experimented on yours, now when I get to Denver you can help me put mine in!! Did you notice a huge difference?? Any additional noise while driving on roads?

I assume by "Chris" you ment Scott

I like it so far. I have not had a chance to work it out too much yet but so far it has completley changed everything, lol. It is a monster now. No need for the skinny pedal, just crawl right up!! There is a little faint ratcheting when turning sharp like in a parking lot but nothing that is too bothersom. Offroad I have noticed a little clunking once in a while but I think some of that was just them being new, by the end of the day there was much less noise.

I will be more then happy to help you with an install! Should be pretty easy and go fast now that we figured out some thingsd during the install I did!

[WTF_LOL]

Originally Posted by nam6869usmc

...
I think the Aussie made my JK a Completely different Wheeler.

I agree. I have not had a chance to check it out too much yet but I was pleasently surprised. I feel it made even more of an impact then it did putting one in the front of my XJ. POssibly due to the bigger tires and a shorter wheel base.

How long have you been running yours? Do you get much noise when in 4wd off road?

[nam6869usmc]

Originally Posted by WTF_LOL

I agree. I have not had a chance to check it out too much yet but I was pleasently surprised. I feel it made even more of an impact then it did putting one in the front of my XJ. POssibly due to the bigger tires and a shorter wheel base.

How long have you been running yours? Do you get much noise when in 4wd off road?

Had mine for over a year now, very very little noise 4-Lo offroad, or I might be not heraing any noise due to the panic mode watching everything around me.. You can just feel it working on hard rock situations, got high centered & spotter come over & said your Aussie is definitely working.
On road 2WD nothing at all until a lock to lock slow turn(parking), a little chatter. I wish they had one for the D44,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,I'll lock both ends.

[airric00]

ooops.. Sorry dude.. That is what I get for trying to use my memory. I got everyone mixed up! I shoulda just checked your sig! Well have a for the install and I can't wait to get these in my dana 30!

[WTF_LOL]

I just want to ad a little info.

The most confusing part of this install was the proper way to measure the tolerances. This is the part that made our install take so long. I had read on JK-forum that a couple guys where saying the JK thrust washers where too thick and they used a TJ washer instead which are slightly thinner. The thing about it though is the guy said he used one TJ and one JK washer which makes no sense as the Pinion shaft is fixed, this would work if it floated but by my calculations it would mean he was tight on one side and loose on the other. If you used two TJ washers you would be too loose.

You see, the thrust washers in the JK have a quite a bit of spring to them. At first we thought we where too tight. Then we realized that if we pried them open we where within tolerance. It was not really clear from the instructions if you should meet the tolerances while it was at rest or while pried open. So far everything has been working fine but I thought I would check with Aussie to be sure:

Originally Posted by Aussie tech

What are the clearances of the locker at rest and pressed apart? I recently did a test in stall in a jk carrier and found the same results, with tj washers the clearances were on the loose side at .180 width with the jk washers and pressed apart I was at .135. As far as how your locker is operating you should be ok. Some louder popping etc is normal at first during the break init should get quieter down the road. I also believe the more miles that are put on the unit the more the thrust washer spring back will relax putting the gaps within specified tolerances. Since we do not currently have too many JK installs if you could keep me updated on how the locker is performing would be appreciated. We are also researching the possibility of a different thrust washer to use that is close to the same thickness as the JK without the springback. Go ahead and run the locker as is and let me know if anything changes.

Tim
Aussie Locker Technical Consultant
719-287-7703

I sent him a little more info, I will respond back when I hear some more

[WTF_LOL]

bit more info...

Originally Posted by My response to above email

For the Pinion gap, with the unit at rest it was less then 0. I had to spread the unit apart to even get the pinion shaft in. Once it was in, at rest it was pushed against the shaft, spread apart (so thrust washer was flat) I was roughly ~.010. The gauge I had was not as specific as I would have wanted it to be but it was enough to tell if I was within tolerance. For the Cam gear gap, I didn't make a note of what ti was at rest but it was tighter then the tolerance alowed, I remember doing the math and figuring out that at rest the TJ thrust washers would be to loose. I am surprised to hear that you where at .135 with the JK washers and spread apart, it seems that is about where I was with it at rest with the JK washers. I will have to find my notes but it seems I was at about roughly .155 with the JK washers and spread open.

To me, it sounds like if anything it is all on the tight side but, within tolerance when spread apart. My only concern is it takes a bit of effort to spread them apart. What would be the result of having too tight of tolerance? Just possiblity of binding in certain situations? Is this anything I should be concerned? On the TJ, does the gaps fall into specs when at rest or did you have to spread those as well?

Sorry about all the questions, I appreciate your help!

Originally Posted by Aussies next response

The Tj washers are flat so there is no issue of spreading them apart, but the tj washers are .026 thickness where the JK washer is .046 if I recall so the JK carrier is manufactured different. My clearance was at .135 at a rest so I would imagine it would be close to your tolerance of .155 spread apart. I do not forsee any problems running the way it is, it may not unlock as easy but especially with the dana 30's I prefer to see them set up tighter because we have had issues of them not staying locked if set up on the loose side. Keep me updated on how the locker is working. Thanks

Tim
Aussie Locker Technical Consultant
719-287-7703

[PhilD]

Very nice write up

Everyone I know with Aussie lockers loves them.

[Alaska-HWY JK]

Well I installed a full set of Teraflex control arms on Saturday and today I put a XD13227 JK specific Aussie Locker in my 2007 unlimited. This was a great write up, I've read through it a few times over the time it took for this locker to come out. When it came to installing it the pinion shaft wouldn't go in. I cleaned the excess grease off but no go. I called Aussie and while waiting for a tech to call back decided to try the stock thrust washers. They are about half the thickness of the new blue ones that come with the JK specific locker. Long story short they work, shaft to axle gear spacing .012 inter cam gear spacing .160. The tollerance is .006-.020 and.145-.170. When the tech called he said they Jeep had changed a few things in late 07 / 08 on the front ends and mine would work fine like that as most kits reuse the stock thrust washers. Mine was built on 11/06 so it could be an older D30. Anyway thanks again for a very usefull and well written write up.
Ron O.

The thrust washers on my front end are flat, no spring as yours had.

[WTF_LOL]

interesting. Thank you for the response.

So, laid flat they are perfectly flat? no cup to them at all? How thick are your thrust washers?

[Imkunfused]

If you want to know an easier way to remove the carrier, just put a wrench on one of the carrier bolts and rotate the pinion. I cant remember what way to go, but it will rotate until the wrench hits the housing then it will gently rotate the carrier out of the housing. Easiest way to do it without a spreader

[Alaska-HWY JK]

They are as flat as the table on my drill press, and thats pretty flat. The blue ones that come with the JK specific Aussie locker are .047 acording to the Aussie tech. The battery in my micrometer was dead so I can't confirm this today. The 2 stock thrust washers stacked are close to one of the new blue ones, I think a little more Its been a long day so I can't remember. All I know is I waited a year, paid $30 or $40 dollars more and didn't need those washers. The worst part is I could have been locked in Moab last summer and wasn't. Oh well I'm heading down there again in October this year and I'll be more prepared. Whats the weather like down there in October temp wise and how early does it get dark? It was great last July but friggen hot.
Once again thanks for the write up.
Ron O.

And yes no spring or cup to them, could be the left over parts they had in November 06 builds. Anyway I've had no problems before and the install went good. Now It's back to work for 9 days before I can test it properly.

[Grimscale]

Originally Posted by Alaska-HWY JK

And yes no spring or cup to them, could be the left over parts they had in November 06 builds. Anyway I've had no problems before and the install went good. Now It's back to work for 9 days before I can test it properly.

At our local club meeting last night, Bill from Aussie Locker mentioned that he's heard of some early production '07 JKs that were using left-over TJ diffs. This was causing some confusion with the JK specific locker.

I'm SO glad mine wasn't one of these when Bill was looking for a test subject JK.


Bill from Aussie Locker and a fellow club member and Jeep tinkerer, Ryan, adding the small springs to the locker before final assembly.




I'd say I was pretty lucky. be a guinea pig and get a locker out of it.





Oh, and the locker works GREAT! Was crawling up sandy hills that would have choked it before.

[DenverJKNiner]

That looks great. Just wondering if you have regeared yet? This looks like it may by my new best option over swapping to a D44 Front end. Also when do you want to give me a hand installing one on mine?

[ksjeep]

PICS? !!!

[Rafi]

any chance you can re host these pictures!! please!

[Alaska-HWY JK]

If you use Aussies manual and the tips from WTFs writup its an easy install.