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Installing rear axle shafts

71K views 69 replies 34 participants last post by  MUD707 
#1 ·
Replacing the Jeep Wrangler JK rear axle shafts with the Superior Evolution Rear Axle Kit is a relatively simple task. The kit comes complete with both axle shafts, bearings seals, collars, and wheel studs. There are different kits for the Rubicon Dana 44 (32 spline) and non Rubicon Dana 44 (30 spline).

If you are not going to re-use the factory retaining plates and ABS tone rings, then you will to purchase these seperately. It makes sense to do this, as you will then be able to leave the factory shafts intact and ready to be used as spares. You will also need to replace the four torque bolts on each retaining plate, as they should not be re-used.


  • Retaining Plate - Mopar 68008523AA (2 required)
  • Retaining Plate Nut - Mopar 68003275AA (8 required)
  • ABS Tone Ring - Currie CE-11320 (2 required)

Superior Axle shaft compared to factory shaft. They look very similar, the difference is in what they are made of and the cold-formed rolled spline process that produces axle splines that are up to 35% stronger than traditional cut splines. The way the bearings are fitted also differs slightly.


First thing you will need to do is press on the ABS tone rings. These need to clear the shaft collar by approx 1/8"-1/4", do not go further than 3/8" or they will no longer line up with the ABS sensors. The opening of the tone ring should be facing outwards towards the hub end of the shaft.


Apply grease to the axle seal and place the retainer plate axle seal on to the shaft, followed by the bearing and collar. The inner bearing surface is chamfered on one side, which indicates the way it goes on the shaft, chamfered side towards outboard end of shaft. Then press the bearing and collar on to the shaft, until the bearing seats on the lip on the shaft. Every time you have built up pressure with the press, it is a good idea to release the pressure and rotate the shaft in the press 90°, this insures that bearing and collar are being pressed on evenly.


Installing the shafts is simple, exlcuding the lug nuts there are just seven bolts/nuts that need to be undone for each shaft. First, remove the caliper and rotor, then undo the four retaining plate nuts.


Remove the bolt on the ABS sensor and pull the sensor back so it is out of the way, there is no need to remove it.


The bearings are lubricated by the differntial fluid, so it is a good idea to tilt the axle up slightly so as not to spill diff fluid when you remove the shaft.


The shaft should just pull out, very slight force with a pry bar will help it un-seat if it is stuck.


Looking inside the housing you can see the diff fluid (showing the reflection of the bearing).


Bolt in the Superior lug nuts, some blue Loctite will ensure they do not move. Grease the bearing with suitable wheel bearing grease, in this case Mobil 1 Synthetic Grease, wipe any excess grease off the bearing mounting surface.
 
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#2 ·
Place the new shaft back into the axle, there is no need to force it, once you have the splines lined up it will easily just slide in. Use new torque nuts for the retaining plate and torque to 45 ft/lbs.


Before installing the rotor and caliper, replace the ABS sensor and ensure that it is over the ABS tone ring. Then install the rotor and caliper and torque the caliper bolts to 75 ft/lbs.

Replace the wheel and re-check all the bolts/nuts. Check all nut/bolts again after 500 miles.

The factory shafts can be cleaned, greased and kept as spares. Wrapping the bearing/seal/etc in masking tape will help keep them clean. Doing the same for the splines will help protect them.


http://www.trailduty.com/tech/rear_axle_shafts/index.html
 
#11 ·
Mainly because when I bought them, which was some time ago, there were no chromoly shafts available. I've no real concerns about the Superior shafts, they are stronger than stock and will do the job just fine. They made their front ones out of chromoly as it was more needed there.
 
#13 ·
In the past I've drilled the collar with a 1/2" bit, making sure you don't drill into the shaft, then used a chisel and hammer to finish it off. I've never found an easier way of removing the collar.

The bearings usually come off easily once you have the collar removed.

The tone ring should just come off by gently going around it with a pry bar, otherwise just use a press.
 
#14 ·
PhilD. Do the instuctions tell you to grease the bearing or lube with gear oil? It looks like the bearings are lubricated by the gear oil and don't need greased.
 
#19 ·
Phil, sorry to bump this old thread but I have a set of these on the way. A couple questions, did you disassemble the stock shafts to get to the retainer plate & tone ring, or did you source new parts? I see you have listed a Currie number for the tone ring. Is there a Chrysler service part or do I need to get with Currie?

I'm a little PO'd at my vendor. He told me they came pre-assembled with tone ring, etc., and were plug & play. Apparently not.
 
#20 ·
Phil, thanks for the great write up on this. Saved me a ton of guess work re: the tone ring depth.
 
#22 ·
As far as the bearings go...I am having issues figuring out which bearing to use (buying new)

Timken part # SET10AZ
SKF part # BR10

Both listed as "Wheel bearing - Rear"

OR something like the Omix-Ada part # 1653605 listed as "axle shaft bearing - rear"

Or ar they all the same damn thing?
 
#39 ·
I didn't see a reply to this... are you guys using whatever bearings/seals the parts stores have listed for our Jeeps? I'd rather not have to order them online.
 
#23 ·
I did this today. I couldn't get my axles out even by prying lightly against the drum brake. I found that if you put the disc back on backwards and thread the nuts on a little you can use the disc as a slide hammer. Worked perfectly. And, if you are tying to figure out which axle is longer or shorter, make sure you have the lug nuts threaded on. I was trying to put the long axle in the sort side:D
 
#27 · (Edited)
Not too bad.

I just did this today & thought I'd add a few tips for those about to try it. My seal was leaking for a while & made a holy mess out of everything on the driver's side. I used that as an opportunity to replace my axle shafts while I was in there. I used 2 full cans of Brakleen to clean it all up (both sides) plus the wheel & tire.

1. The Brake Caliper bolts & axle retaining nuts are both 18mm. Ratcheting wrench is handy here as access is tight.
2. The ABS sensor bolt is 8mm. I used a 1/4" drive socket & ratchet and a~6" extension to clear the swaybar bracketry on the driver's side.
3. The tip Charles gave on using the caliper as a slide hammer was a good one. :)
4. Don't forget the "Brakleen" for cleaning the greasy fingerprints off your brakes before reassembly. Especially after step 3 above!
5. The Superior Wheel Studs use a 3/4" socket to screw them in. I also used anti-sieze instead of loctite as I think they'll be plenty tight & I want to pull them back apart when I get my Spyntec fronts (to swap bolt pattern). They are 1/2-20 x 2" long.
6. Don't forget the Loctite on the Caliper bolts & ABS sensor bolt.
7. The dimension of the tone ring press on isn't that critical - the sensor has a wide active area. The dimensions shown in PhilD's write up are plenty close enough.
8. I had some difficulty in removing one of the bearing races. Some patience & kept working with it. I was about to break out the slide hammer & bearing puller, but was able to slowly work my way around with a small lever helping it out. Be careful you don't damage the axle tube in this area so the new bearing goes in OK.
9. Because I had a leaky seal, I bought new seals, bearings, and retainers. Now that I'm done with my swap I'll rebuild my stock axles for a good set of trail spares. That and I forgot the kit came with those already! :shaking:

EDIT:
10. Here's 1 additional tip I forgot to mention that I learned from a well-respected shop & pro JK Mechanic: before installing the new axles, coat the outer sealing surface of the new axle seals (the part that contacts the axle tube) with a light coating of RTV. I'm not the originator of this tip, just the messenger, but it comes from someone who does dozens & dozens of gear changes on JK's. I can't vouch for how good it works or not.

That's it. Don't be intimidated. PhilD's instructions are very good.
 
#32 ·
Its odd to me that the axle shafts are different lengths. I have some stock spares that I got from someone on here. They look exactly the same length and I cant get different measurements from them. How can I go about figuring out which is the long and which is the short AND which side accepts which? I thought the diff in the rear was perfectly centered. :cwm13:
 
#38 ·
Bumping this one up again for anyone else in my shoes.

Swapping my bent rear shafts with some used OEM replacements until the tons are ready. The info here is awesome and should make the swap fairly simple. At under 11,000 miles I'm hoping the shafts won't give me too much trouble popping out.

My drill press and hydraulic press should make light work of the bearing removal and install. It's been all too long since I've used them- I need to start building things again!
 
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