I just finished installing a Sprintex supercharger with Hypertech programmer in my 2007 JKU. For the benefit of others who will be installing this upgrade, here are my experiences and suggestions, over and above the installation instructions, that will help with a smoother install. Unless you've done several of these installs before give yourself 2 days to complete the work, not the 4-6 hours stated in the instructions.
Big thanks go to Tight wad
who had installed this unit before me and gave me a lot of good suggestions.
Here's a pic of the SC unit in the box:
NOTE: Updated 6/10/2013.
Although not written anywhere in the installation instructions, I'm going to tell you that a transmission cooler for JKs with automatic transmission IS REQUIRED. I overheated and fried my transmission in less than 200 miles. After replacing my entire transmission I added Aeroforce Interceptor gauges and found that my transmission temperature was right around 200f in city driving averaging 40-45mph. Way too high! I added a PSC transmission cooler and transmission temperatures dropped approximately 60 degrees. The same test drive that had my temps at 200f produced a trans temp of 140f with a transmission cooler.
Suggestion - You will need to run high octane (min 91 octane) fuel with this unit, so make sure you have premium gasoline in your tank before you install the unit.
I highly recommend that you buy new breather hoses. You will need to modify them for the install and having new hoses will make things MUCH easier and head off performance problems that I had. I wound up replacing mine after the install with new ones.
Your plastic conduit that surrounds wiring around the top of the engine may be in bad shape and disintegrating. Buy some of this from your local auto parts store and replace it as you find it. I bought several feet of the 2 smallest sizes and still have plenty left.
This is also a good time to replace your PCV valve, since you will have easy access to it. Removing the old PCV valve can be difficult and I destroyed mine getting it out. Replace it, don't plan on inspecting and re-installing the old one.
Buy a new EGR tube gasket. This is the gasket that mates the EGR tube coming off the SC to the EGR valve. Mine fell apart when I removed the stock EGR tube. Do not attempt to use RTV here in place of a new gasket as it will leak.
The installation instructions will mention several tools that you will need. I already have a massive selection of tools, but here are a couple that you may not have that I'll mention here to make the job easier:
Fuel line disconnect tool:
1/4 inch drive universal joint:
Long handled 5mm hex wrench. There is a bolt under the SC that is a PITA to install. I screwed mine down with a hex wrench. If I ever have to do it again I will make my own ratcheting 5mm wrench from a small flex head ratcheting wrench with a 5mm hex bit welded into the ratcheting end. It took me an hour to screw this one bolt in. You will also not be able to torque it to recommended specs because there is no way to get a torque wrench on it.
Read and re-read all of the instructions until your are familiar with the tear down and installation before you begin work.
If you have a tuner (I had Superchips Premium tune installed) currently installed you need to set your vehicle back to STOCK at this point.
The tear down goes relatively smoothly. I recommend labeling all parts removed/unplugged.
Here are a few tear down pics: