Thoughts on welding FF spindles - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 05-17-2017, 03:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thoughts on welding FF spindles

Looking for some consensus on the direction to take for welding in my rear FF spindles. Housing (Sixty9) is from RuffStuff with 3.5x .375 tubes (2.75 ID). Spindles are Solid 40 spline that come with an OD of 3.50, along with an extension length of 4, so I already have to get them machined down to fit the tubes.

Housing:
[IMG][/IMG]

Spindle:

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

Ive thought of two different ways I could go about having them machined, which would lead to two very different types of weld on the ends.
First would be to have the entire length of the extension turned down to 2.75 (plus a thou or two). This basically leaves me with something between a butt weld and a fillet weld.

Heres what Im talking about:

[IMG][/IMG]


The other way I was thinking about, would be to leave .5 of the full 3.50 OD of the spindle and have a bevel where it meets the axle tube. Another bevel on the tube and Ive got a full tube thickness groove weld.

Heres what Im thinking about on that:

[IMG][/IMG]

There will also be plug welds through the tubes to the spindles.

So which way would you go? Im leaning towards the full groove weld.

Kevin

Last edited by gt1guy; 05-17-2017 at 03:33 PM.
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post #2 of 14 Old 05-17-2017, 04:04 PM
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Most are done like your first drawing.

Second may be a bit stronger.

Either should be fine.

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post #3 of 14 Old 05-17-2017, 09:36 PM
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I would prefer the second one.

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post #4 of 14 Old 05-18-2017, 01:11 AM Thread Starter
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Main reason for the second idea is , the spindles will be at the machine shop either way, chucked into a lathe and turned down. The material is already there.

Kevin
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post #5 of 14 Old 05-18-2017, 12:31 PM
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Number 2 is the way Dynatrac cuts their spindle for welding.

You can see it in this screen shot.


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post #6 of 14 Old 05-18-2017, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
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That just looks like a better way to go about it to me.

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post #7 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 11:08 AM Thread Starter
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So, last night I layout where I need the machining done on the spindles (like the second picture). Then I install a hub to measure wms to the end of tube. Do a little math to figure out how long I need to cut the tubes. First tube lays out fine, second tube is 11/16th too short. Fuck me. Back to moving things around on the spindle to split that difference.

Going for 72" wms/wms. Didn't think that would be tough to do.

Kevin
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post #8 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 12:48 PM
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What's the material and how much are you gonna need to have turned off?

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post #9 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 05:05 PM
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We bevel the spindle and press in, but also machine the tube as DOM is not round. .003"-.004" press fit is ideal. Makes for a long day if you press in a non-machined tube and can't get the true-bar in.


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post #10 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 05:43 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
What's the material and how much are you gonna need to have turned off?
Spindles are made from 4140 forgings. Rears and fronts are the same material.

Dropped everything off at the machinist today.

I'm not a machinist, so my terminology isn't correct. Here's what he said he wanted to do to make sure everything was straight. True up a spot on each end of the OD of the housing tubes, which would allow him to use a secondary tool to hold the housing straight (so it would be held at both ends). Then he's true up the ID on one side, flip it around and true the other ID.
Then he'd have the ID numbers he'd need to turn the spindles for a press fit. He's going to press in the spindles and give me 4 tack welds on each in the grooves.

He's also got my front housing to cut the ends of the tubes to size. I forgot the C's today, I'll get those to him on Monday so he can true up the ends and set me up with a gentle dance with the fire and ice as opposed to a stuck C half way on with 30* of castor.

I did talk to RuffStuff today and the mix up on the housing length was all my fault. I had told them I was going with a 71" wms/wms. This housing would have made that just fine. Well, that was a year and a half ago and I change my mind like underwear. Now I want a 72" wms/wms. So I had to adjust how far the spindles stuck into the tube and how they got machined.
I went from 3.375" sticking into the tube to 2.6875". It's still almost a full ID worth of penetration, so I still feel good about it.

If everything goes as planed, wms/wms will be 72.5" in front and rear will be 72".

Kevin
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post #11 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 05:58 PM
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Ahh, they are doing quite a bit of other stuff for you. I was gonna offer to turn the parts for you but it sounds like you are on the right track with him.

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post #12 of 14 Old 05-19-2017, 09:08 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fusion 4x4 View Post
We bevel the spindle and press in, but also machine the tube as DOM is not round. .003"-.004" press fit is ideal. Makes for a long day if you press in a non-machined tube and can't get the true-bar in.
So Fusion, I take it you're doing a groove weld to stick the spindle and tube together?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dkjeep View Post
Ahh, they are doing quite a bit of other stuff for you. I was gonna offer to turn the parts for you but it sounds like you are on the right track with him.
Thanks for the offer. Ya, this guy really seems to know what he's doing. And he's 10 minutes from my house.

Kevin
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post #13 of 14 Old Today, 01:17 PM Thread Starter
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Just a follow up.
Got everything back and put together. Very happy with the results.

Turned down spindle.
[IMG][/IMG]

Small land at bottom of bevel. Thinking behind the land was that if I had them run the bevel all the way down to the part of the spindle that goes inside the tube, when the tube is heated and the spindle is frozen(when there's clearance between them) it could actually wedge in and I'd be fucked.

[IMG][/IMG]

Matching land on tube at bottom of it's bevel.

[IMG][/IMG]

Installed. I just waited for the tube to cool a bit and grab the spindle before I tacked it. The line where the lands met gave me something to watch to make sure it stayed straight.

[IMG][/IMG]

Tacked.

[IMG][/IMG]

Welded.

[IMG][/IMG]

Done. Like I was never there.

[IMG][/IMG]
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post #14 of 14 Old Today, 01:40 PM Thread Starter
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Oh, with this little contraption and a clamp thingy on the tube, I was able to turn myself into a auto-positioning-rotating robot welder.

[IMG][/IMG]

Wanted 36" from pinion C/L to WMS. Ended up with a 1/16" extra on each side.

[IMG][/IMG]

Kevin
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