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Jeep pulls issue?

6K views 19 replies 11 participants last post by  Crso8541 
#1 · (Edited)
Ok, So it's the same ole Jeep pulls right when letting off the gas and pulls left when accelerating. 2dr JK 3.5" X-factor and 35's, Here's what I've done so far:

Track Bars: Torqued, axel's centered, both are raised 3"
Control Arms: Torqued and adjusted
Drag link: RK Flip kit/ High Steer Kit and steering wheel is centered
Alignment: Haven't done yet....

I've not been able to see that anything is moving/shifting down there. The weird thing is whenever it happens I don't get any movement in the steering wheel. Would the alignment being out cause this? What am I missing...



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#2 ·
A lot of variables can cause this. Do you have fixed length controls arms or Adjustable control arms? Any mods related to wheels, brakes, axles, lift kit? Recent brake change? What tires tires and tire size are you riding on?

A wheel alignment might already answer your questions.. or at least the alignment report will.
 
#3 ·
A lot of variables can cause this. Do you have fixed length controls arms or Adjustable control arms? Any mods related to wheels, brakes, axles, lift kit? Recent brake change? What tires tires and tire size are you riding on?



A wheel alignment might already answer your questions.. or at least the alignment report will.


Adjustable CA's, no real mods that would affect it. I'm going to get an alignment done when I find somewhere to do it.



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#6 ·
Only thing I can see on that sheet is that maybe the caster is a little low, but that shouldn't induce torque steer to my knowledge.
Hopefully more of an expert can take a look and see something I don't
 
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#8 ·
Was your entire box loose or was there play in the sector shaft. I've been toying with replacing it or getting a reinforcement bracket. What was your solution?
 
#11 ·
I'm going to increase my caster and see what happens. The only event that happened before it started was my tires were balanced and rotated. I swapped the tires around and it didn't correct it. I've made sure that all the suspension components were tight. I think that I have a little play in my sector shaft, I'm toying with the idea of trying to "adjust" it and see if that helps, if it does I'm going to replace the gear box.
 
#13 ·
I have, I pulled the front out again the other day to increase my caster. They all look fine, I may try and do the grade 8 hardware upgrade to see if it's a "hole" issue. I want to either do a track bar bracket/sector shaft reinforcement or convince my wife to let me get the new PSC HD steering box. I think I have some play in the sector shaft, I don't know if that's going to be end all be all fix but its worth a shot.
 
#15 ·
I'm going to bump it on up to 4-4.5. I'm running 3ish right now after my first adjustments. I should've just went straight to 4 and been done but was trying to be conservative.


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#16 ·
I knew looking at the numbers in the instructions, caster would be lower.
Right from the start, i set the uppers to min and added 1/8 on the lowers.
Drove like that for a while before having the alignment checked out.
Caster came in at 3.5°. My options were to shorten the uppers (already maxed in) or lengthen the lowers, which i did not want to do. I ended up with a set of Synergy uppers and adjusted them shorter , with plans on cutting the RK's down. RK then came out with updated arms w/ more adjustment. The Synergy's had JJ's then so im just rocking those. No need to really change.




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#17 ·
Torque steer when in 2wd is usually related to the rear end. I have had several Libby's lately that have had this happen. When on the alignment rack everything seems okay but you don't have the driveline loaded. If you park your Jeep on flat ground and leave it in park or gear(m/t) and with the park brake NOT applied. Look at the rear control arms while rolling the jeep back and forth. As you take up the driveline play in either direction you should be able to see movement in your control arm ends. You could do the same in the front but would have to have it in 4x4.
 
#18 ·
Guess the fix for that is new arms or could I replace with 9/16 bolts to fill in the gap?


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#19 ·
usually the bushings are worn out. if you are factory then new arms. If aftermarket then they can usually be rebuilt.
when people talk about track bars coming loose they usually wear the hole in the frame. this is when you would install a bolt kit. You said your bolts were tight though so I doubt you have frame wear.
check it out before you spend money.
 
#20 ·
So just end this debate and say thanks for everyone's help. I fixed the issue. Ended up being a walled out rear UCA bolt hole. Put a new 9/16 bolt in and the problem is gone. Thanks for all the input you guys are awesome!


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