08' 2dr LS swap build thread. - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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08' 2dr LS swap build thread.

I've never been particularly good at keeping up with one of these types of threads. I usually just do an entire project end to end and then post pics and answer questions. I will try to keep up with this one for any who are interested. Please bump the thread or ask for updates if I am lacking. I will take pics of anything interesting, tricky stuff to deal with, or anything you would just like to see. This is the best site I have found pertaining to info about the swap itself. We have the 2 premier vendors IMO for this swap here and active on a daily basis answering questions and sharing knowledge. This by itself is invaluable and had I not have had the chance to pour through miles of threads I wouldn't have felt comfortable taking this on.

With all that said, there aren't a ton of individual build threads here for guys like me who are just dangerous enough with a wrench and just optimistic enough to try and tackle this job in their own 2 car garage with the body on. My recorded attempt at this starts now.
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post #2 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 04:04 PM Thread Starter
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GMPP LS3/ 525 P/N: 19301360 $7020
6l80e trans 14k miles $1825
Torque convertor 3400 stall (EDGE racing) $870
RPM EXTREME HD radiator $900
pentastar fan P/N: 68143894AB $378
GM pedal P/N: 25832864 $65
GM motor mount x2 P/N:15854941 $181
GM accessory drive P/N:19299070 $592
sanden a/c compressor P/N: 7176 $210
RPM kit, a.c hoses, and CAI $5645
Dirty dingo A/C bracket P/N: DD-LS-AC-LM $142.99
Dirty dingo comp fitting adapter DD-SD7B10-F $48.99
Transmission Dipstick Seal P/N: 15796802 $6.25
Transmission Pan Gasket P/N: 24224781 $17.81
vacume hose nipple P/N: 12559760 $10.60
Power Steering Pressure Hose P/N: 22790848 $62.11
Transmission Filter P/N: 24236933 $34.73
Starter P/N: 12617229 $112.10
MAF Sensor P/N: 15865791 $52.99
o2 sensors x2 P/N: 12583804 $96.32
Trans inspection cover P/N: 24261713 $11.39
Trans dipstick tube P/N: 24260606 $18.20
Starter bolts x2 P/N: 11610787 $9.25
ARP bellhousing bolt kit P/N: 134-0902 $27.68
GM bellhousiung bolt / stud P/N: 11609419 $5.28
weapon R catch can P/N: 826-134-101 $59.50
GM E38 ECM P/N: 12633238 $89.99
Hinson plug wire heat boots $54.84
Alternator connector $20.99
Battery box for 12+ MOPAR P/N: 68079473AG $110.50

ARP exhaust collector bolts P/N: 400-1215 $39.99
ARP headder stud kit P/N: 434-1301 $108.33
3" stainless x pipe (ebay special) $49.53
RPM EXTREME ceramic headers $595
Borla XR-1 mufflers x2 P/N: 40943 $301.98
Sanderson 3" gasket P/N: SHN-COPPER3 $35.00
Pypes 3/8" stainless flange x2, P/N: HVF13S $26.72
o2 bungs stainless M18 x 1.5 $12
Verocious Motorsports mandrel bends $453.27
2x 3", 90 degree bends on 3" radius
2x 3", 45 degree bends on 3" radius
3x 3", 4' long tubing
4x 1/2" rubber exhaust hanger
4x 1/2" exhaust hanger rod
8x 3", 45 degree elbows


Earls 585106ERL cooler adapter -6 fittings $19.85
Earls 19 row cooler 81900ERL $215.95
Earls cooler mounting kit 1508ERL $49.94
-6an trans cooler adapter EBAY $49.00
GM trans cooler gasket P/N: 15251488 $7.67


WIX fuel filter P/N: 33737 $29.63
RCI fuel cell P/N: 2161A $224.97
Aeromotive pump asembly P/N: 18688 $438.47
Aeromotive port plug P/N: 15626 $11.99
Artec fuel cell brackets P/N: FM2161 $120
Aeromotive pressure gauge P/N: 15633 $29.84
Aeromotive port fittings x2 P/N: ORB-06 $27.60
Earls -8an cap x2 $11.72
Earls pressure gauge adapter AT100199ERL $23.39
Earls -6 TO 3/8 QUICK DISCO with 1/8" port $54.58
P/N: EAR-AT992066ERL

male -6 AN to 3/8" male Quick Connect $13.97
Aluminum, Black Anodized P/N: FRA-491994-BL

Earls Quick Disconnect OEM Fuel Line, $69.10
Male -6 AN, Straight, Aluminum, Black Anodized
x2 P/N: EAR-AT991966ERL

Last edited by Dkjeep; 02-11-2017 at 12:13 PM.
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post #3 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 04:12 PM Thread Starter
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So basically the actual work for this started for me on a Friday 11/18/16 for those who are counting. This is the date I drove the jeep into the garage for the last time with its original engine and started to take it apart. I won't bore you to death with details on that. I will say that I had to remove the transfer case from the transmission from below before I could pull the engine and trans out together. Also if you are using just a regular cherry picker type of engine hoist I had to cut the crash bar out and remove the sway bar to be able to push the hoist far enough in to be able to hook up on the engine/trans in a good spot.



This wasn't really a big deal to me as the new bumper I want had me removing it anyways.



Between the crash bar and removing the original motor mounts it took me about 2 hours to grind the welds, knock the brackets off, and smooth out the frame. Nothing particularly exciting about it.
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post #4 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 05:50 PM
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I like your enthusiasm, subbed.
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post #5 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 06:19 PM
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Damn. Your shits clean.


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post #6 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Damn. Your shits clean.


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I start every mod with a thorough scrubbing of the vehicle. I can't stand working through the grit and grime as I go so I clean as good as possible before I start and then as new areas are exposed I clean those.
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post #7 of 157 Old 11-27-2016, 11:34 PM
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post #8 of 157 Old 11-28-2016, 02:12 AM
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Good luck and have fun. I know I enjoyed doing mine. Unfortunately I am horrible at doing threads as I get to involved once I get started and forget to take pics or even update a thread. Glad to see you doing this. If I see or think of anything I will be sure and post it, never know it might help out.

2007 JKU X, 6.0 ls and 6L80e with a diy kit from RpmExtreme, 4.10, 4" ProComp Stage 1 lift, AEV drop brackets, 325/65R18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, Eagle Offroad Alloys 18"x10"
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post #9 of 157 Old 11-28-2016, 10:40 AM
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Very cool. I'll be taking notes, stealing pictures and asking way too many questions.
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post #10 of 157 Old 11-29-2016, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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I am prepping to get the engine and trans in and get the new frame mounts welded in this weekend. I got the transmission crossmember fitted with the new brackets and had moved on to the transfer case adapter when I noticed that the small L shape bracket that attaches to it for the mount was not sitting flush. There is a raised area that will not allow it to sit flush. I have 2 ways to rectify this.... Either I use a washers to space it out a tad or I grind the excess away. I had to double check what side of the adapter it mounted to and according to the pics in the instructions it's on this side.

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post #11 of 157 Old 11-29-2016, 07:40 PM
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It goes on the other side, facing the other way.

So. L shaped bracket mounted on the front side of the lip with the L facing to the rear.

It's pretty universal and you could mount it any way you see fit especially since you have a 2 door and you may be moving the engine forward slightly. I would get the crossmember bracket mounted and drop the power train in and then lay out the mount and bracket.


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post #12 of 157 Old 11-29-2016, 07:59 PM
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Is that a 2 or 4 wheel transmission? If 2 wheel don't forget the plugs and seal before you put the transfer case adapter on. Also check the length of the transmission output shaft. It should be around .500" past the face of the transfer case mount, attached. If not you will need to shorten it.

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post #13 of 157 Old 11-30-2016, 05:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 0lllllll0 RPMEXTREME View Post
It goes on the other side, facing the other way.

So. L shaped bracket mounted on the front side of the lip with the L facing to the rear.

It's pretty universal and you could mount it any way you see fit especially since you have a 2 door and you may be moving the engine forward slightly. I would get the crossmember bracket mounted and drop the power train in and then lay out the mount and bracket.
I figured there was something I was missing. The pics in the instructions show it the way I have it in the picture. With me trying to push the engine forward it makes sense to turn it around the other way.
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post #14 of 157 Old 11-30-2016, 05:39 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Is that a 2 or 4 wheel transmission? If 2 wheel don't forget the plugs and seal before you put the transfer case adapter on. Also check the length of the transmission output shaft. It should be around .500" past the face of the transfer case mount, attached. If not you will need to shorten it.
It's a 4wd trans from the get go. Plugs and seal are present.
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post #15 of 157 Old 11-30-2016, 10:19 AM
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What kit did you end up going with? I just put a 6.0 and 6l80 in my jku last month with the body on also. I went with motech's kit. Its a tight fit everywhere but I LOVE the extra power now! I am running 5.13's with 37's so that helps also. :-)

08 JKU 6.0 LC8 6L80 Atlas 2 37" ridge grapplers on vapor pro 2 beadlocks, prorock 44,rcv's arb front. rock jock 60 rear 40spline shafts,arb 5.13's and a bunch of other stuff
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post #16 of 157 Old 11-30-2016, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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What kit did you end up going with? I just put a 6.0 and 6l80 in my jku last month with the body on also. I went with motech's kit. Its a tight fit everywhere but I LOVE the extra power now! I am running 5.13's with 37's so that helps also. :-)
I got the RPM extreme kit. No complaints yet, I would have probably figured out the bracket once I stabbed it in there and looked at how everything was lining up. I am trying to put the cart ahead of the horse a bit with some of this stuff in an effort to save time later but I have a feeling it will just cost me more down the road. I'm just anxious to move forward with it.
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post #17 of 157 Old 11-30-2016, 03:36 PM Thread Starter
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Does anyone think that I should replace the lip seal or this O-ring on the transmission before I mate it with the engine? The trans has 14k on it.

Also what is the proper amount of fluid to dump into the convertor prior to installing it? It is a brand new convertor.

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post #18 of 157 Old 12-02-2016, 07:40 PM Thread Starter
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Updated post #2 with some part # info and what I paid for each of the items shipped to the door. This is what I have so far that I know of for the swap. I am sure there are some misc smaller items I have forgot about. I do not own any radiator hoses for this yet nor any of the several gallons of misc fluids needed for cooling, engine, and trans. I still have to have the exhaust fabbed up and I need a rear driveshaft, trans cooler, and associated lines.
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post #19 of 157 Old 12-02-2016, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for posting the parts detail. Very helpful.
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post #20 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 01:48 PM Thread Starter
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So this may be my first real work around on this project and to be fair it was not a surprise that this would possible be an issue. The issue is that using the offset accessory drive that I have (cts-v) which is the same as the vette offset that the a/c compressor is pushed back just far enough that 2 of the 5 bolts that hold the end cover onto the compressor interfere with the frame side mount.







What it appears that I will have to do is either clearance out the frame side mount for the heads of the 2 bolts to extend into or.... machine the cover of the compressor to accept a socket cap head screw and countersink the register for those 2 bolt heads slightly into the cover while I shorten the heads of the bolts as well.

I think I will choose to do the machining as I do not like where the bracket will need material removed. On top of this the hole for the bolt heads in the bracket will have to be larger than needed due to engine vibrations etc... it will need excessive clearance so a bolt head does not slap the mount. I don't need the a/c compressor cover being compromised because the a bolt head was slapped off it.

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post #21 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 05:58 PM
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My understanding is that the hyd mounts are more for the vibrations of the DOD engines. So I wouldn't think there'd be much movement.

The counter sink option would be the cleanest way to go, but those mounts look pretty beefy and a couple one inch holes (or so) wouldn't harm them.

I remember Jon saying those bolt heads could be too close with the CTS-V drive.

I'd swap out the o-ring and seal on your trans. They're cheap and you have easy access right now. Might as well start out with 0 mileage bits.

I have written in my notes from talking with Edge, that he said to add one quart of fluid to the converter before installing it. Just remember that the level in the trans will go down after first start up when the converter fills.

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post #22 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I remember Jon saying those bolt heads could be too close with the CTS-V drive.
There is literally maybe .020" clearance there. The entire head of the bolt has to either be counter sunk or milled off. I am going to try and meet it in the middle. I also while out in the garage tonight saw another option that I will play with tomorrow and keep you posted on. The Hyd mounts seem to be super spongy. I dont know if this is good or not. It seems to me that they will definitely help out for slight misalignment issues.
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post #23 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 06:13 PM Thread Starter
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Small sample of victory for now.

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post #24 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 06:30 PM
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Your talking about countersinking for something like this correct?


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post #25 of 157 Old 12-04-2016, 07:11 PM Thread Starter
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Can do that or just a typical Allen head screw.

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