Jku Half door build - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
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post #1 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 12:48 AM Thread Starter
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Jku Half door build and snow plow

Here's a few pics of my start to this project


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post #2 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 01:06 AM
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Very cool. Looks like steel? How thick? Can't wait to see more progress. I've never been able to swallow the price of what companies sell those things for.

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post #3 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 01:25 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks! 11 gauge outer skin, 16 ga cap. Inside panel will be 16 ga

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post #4 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 05:18 AM
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What's up with the locking mechanisms and and shit?


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post #5 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 09:52 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper View Post
What's up with the locking mechanisms and and shit?


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I won't have a conventional lock, Eberhard latches, yj half door Latch handles exterior and interior. Here's a wooden jig I made to layout the Latch and handle mechanics.

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post #6 of 109 Old 10-23-2016, 12:45 PM
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That is very slick. So, no reaching in or out to open them from either side. Very nice.
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post #7 of 109 Old 10-27-2016, 11:12 PM Thread Starter
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A few more pieces

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post #8 of 109 Old 11-04-2016, 11:09 PM Thread Starter
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Got all 4 doors cut out and bent the inside support pieces for the inner skin
All the misc pieces


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post #9 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 06:27 AM
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Nice work dude.
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post #10 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 07:47 AM
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you got it goin'-on with this ! The latch is ingenious as f*ck.

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post #11 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 07:59 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks Apt and Jeffrey! I put some curve in the outer skin and made some hinges the other night

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post #12 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 09:08 AM
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Wow, really impressive layout and execution (so far, but . . . . . . it looks like you'll carry through )


So, assuming you modeled this in CAD (or went full-on Rain Man figuring out all the little bits):

Quote:
Originally Posted by pvanweelden View Post
All the misc pieces
Questions:
  • What CAD program did you use (or are you a savant)?
  • Do you know offhand how much the doors will weigh?
  • Is this something you plan to commercialize as kits or complete?


Impressive attention to detail. Very nicely done Thanks for sharing!

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post #13 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you ExWrench, I grew up using Autocad, but used Draftsight to draw these up. Since the outside skin is 11 gauge, these will definitely have some weight to them. My guess is they will almost be as heavy as a full door when I get done with the inside panels. I will try to weigh them soon. No plans right now for a kit. All depends on how I get the inside finished, otherwise the doors are pretty similar to savvy, but the goal is to be similar to zebra or rugged Ridge but with handles that line up lol (the shit drives me crazy)

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post #14 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 12:12 PM
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wow. That explanation is all-the-more impressive;with your skillset, couldn't the outside or the whole thing also be done in aluminum or would that be dastardly to try to TIG weld as well as costly as heck?
I do not think the Savvy doors are as complete as your design but they gotta be lighter.

I wasn't gonna comment but ExWrench read my thoughts and I wondered about weight, too.

the curve is so awesome.

you could dimple-die some inner stuff to lighten, maybe?
Maybe you haz engine that weight is not such a factor on.

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post #15 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 02:20 PM Thread Starter
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I am doing steel so they will be armor and I can weld to the outer skins. I do not have the ability to tig yet. The inside skin will be 16 and 18 gauge.

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post #16 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 10:36 PM Thread Starter
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Tonight I made 2 more hinges so I could mount the rear passenger door, and added curve to it. Top cap on front door will get redone after I receive my factory uppers.


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post #17 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 11:16 PM
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How are you "curving" the doors, Idk if I missed it.
Looks bomb though dude


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post #18 of 109 Old 11-12-2016, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckTheRipper View Post
How are you "curving" the doors, Idk if I missed it.
Looks bomb though dude


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I made some pieces, shown in a previous pic, that I drew with a huge radius, and after 2 attempts I got the front door right. The rear door I got right the first attempt. The jk body has about 3/8" roll to it from center

Thank you.
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post #19 of 109 Old 11-13-2016, 12:01 AM Thread Starter
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Here's a pic of the tolerances

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post #20 of 109 Old 11-16-2016, 11:26 AM
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Phenomenal work! And i share the same thoughts on the door handles, HATE that they don't line up on certain manufacturers (OCD sucks sometimes lol) and don't like the zebra handles protruding from the side of the door, both just look like afterthoughts to me.
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post #21 of 109 Old 11-16-2016, 05:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you RkyMtnJK. Just to prove how stupid I am, I couldn't pass up a set of factory uppers, even though I already had bestop soft doors, and had planned on using those uppers. Well, needless to say, I had followed the body lines from the lower soft door, and the factory lower goes up higher near the mirrors, so I need to make a mockup lower, to see where the hell I am at. Good times

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post #22 of 109 Old 11-18-2016, 11:05 PM Thread Starter
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Just to clarify- I had 4 door skins all done and ready to mount latches and then start on the interior, until I decided to switch from the bestop softdoor uppers to factory uppers.
Here's a few pics to show the difference in the body lines.

Not even close with the factory uppers

So I made a wooden mockup and tonight made some new progress

Tomorrow I will cut some new outer skins for the front doors

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post #23 of 109 Old 11-19-2016, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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A few more things cut today


Quick test of new skin to factory upper, everything looks great! Now to start building new caps with the insert for the uppers so I can mock up the height


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post #24 of 109 Old 11-19-2016, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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New door skin with curve added, mounted.
Threw the factory upper on it - top cap is not on door yet, so nothing to mount to. Cap will also seal the gap along the bottom edge.


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post #25 of 109 Old 11-19-2016, 11:54 PM Thread Starter
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And if you noticed in this pic

How the upper retainer post comes down where the handles is, clearance is fine depth Wise, but that covers up my ability to screw in the screws to mount the handle, so I am flipping the handle. Not so easy, as you need the draw to trigger the Latch. But I redesigned the exterior and interior handle cable draw setup

So my handle will actually be aerodynamic unlike savvy


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