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Bolt-in 1 ton Options

7K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Bumpstick 
#1 ·
I'm trying to plan the rest of my build. My JK has gone from a weekend toy to now needing to be a reliable street driven Jeep. I'm not happy with the power curve of the 3.6L so I'm in the parts gathering stage of a 5.3L LS swap ~325hp/350tq. I don't think my light 2 door will need the 385hp/400tq from the 6.0L. Even without the LS yet the built D30 (chromoly shafts, cryo'ed gears, and Detroit) with 37s is not what I would consider reliable for a wheeled street driven Jeep.

I know I can just grab off the shelf PR60s or UD60s but I would like to know all my options... 8x6.5, full floater, large brakes, and would like to be able to get pads and rotors at my local parts store.

After seeing the Fusion 4x4 Fab 10s peeked my interest in fab'ed 9s but I'm not sure I would like it so much once I see the price tag.

A 14 bolt is an option but with the '12 automatic transmission you have to use a select-able locker or posi (only one I would run is a Tru-Trac). So only option would be an ARB. Plus the price to shave it to get ground clearance back. Not sure if a 14 bolt would be the best bang for the buck for my JK.

What options are out there for bolt in 1 tons for me?
 
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#3 ·
I have access to a welder and a good friend with a welding experience that will burn stuff in for food and beverage. But he isn't a suspension builder or fabricator duo the welding has to be o.k. all tabbed and indexed parts.
 
#5 ·
#7 ·
If you want bolt in and are straying away from Dynatrac, Currie and the UD60s then look at Fusion bolt in 60s. They have several varieties and all of them will be a lot less costly than the Fusion 10s you saw.

I would recommend the 05+ Dana 60 up front. You can fit a 10" ring gear in there if you want something a little beefier than just a regular 60. In the rear, cheapest would probably be a matching Sterling 10.5 but you have several options here.

Also I dont think you will get your money's worth upgrading to a 5.3 from a 3.6. The power curves are similar and you only net ~40 hp. Everyone says the 6l80 is what makes the swap and it does but the trans behind the 3.6 is very well mated to that motor as compared to the crappy 4 speed behind my 3.8.
 
#8 ·
We're running 40s on our 3.6 and it's fine (except highway merging is a little lazy). I agree with Alasha that the investment for a 5.3 isn't worth it from a 3.6.

When dealing with a rear axle, it is hard to build anything for much less than a UD60. Unless you literally do all the work with your own hands. Even then, it is an investment:

Axle: $400
Gears/locker/install kit: $1500
Shave kit: $450 (we only use the TMR kit)
New brakes: $350
Artec tone ring kit: $70
Machining hubs: $100
Artec swap kit: $350
Custom e-brake cables: $125
New pinion yoke: $100
New parking brake parts: $100
Misc parts: $75
14 bolt tools if you dont have them: $$
Used consumables such as cutoff wheels, paint, etc: $100

So, with no outside help at all, you might pull it off for $3700. That is a buddy doing all the welding and setup, you installing gears, and lots of hours on other stuff. If you are not familiar with working on 14 bolts and full float axles, it adds hours.

We've also sold that same axle for $4500 ready to bolt in. It really is too bad the Sterling doesn't want to fit as those are sub $4k all day long ready to bolt in.

On the front, 99-04 super duty axle is the way to go to keep the cost down. Although, now that I think we finally have a tie rod solution for the 05+, I may change my view on that.

Our fabricated axles are bad ass, but $$$ due to the third members. That said, we can build the exact same axles, but with D60 center sections. Price is similar to the UD60s, but it is 2x the axle you are getting. I'd love to build a set so people can see the logic, but I guess dropping $12k on an inferior set of axles makes a lot of sense...
 
#9 ·
On the front, 99-04 super duty axle is the way to go to keep the cost down. Although, now that I think we finally have a tie rod solution for the 05+, I may change my view on that.

Our fabricated axles are bad ass, but $$$ due to the third members. That said, we can build the exact same axles, but with D60 center sections. Price is similar to the UD60s, but it is 2x the axle you are getting. I'd love to build a set so people can see the logic, but I guess dropping $12k on an inferior set of axles makes a lot of sense...
With that being said if someone had a budget of around $12k for axles, What would be your suggestion of what you would build for them?
 
#14 ·
Fusion is right, junkyard axles get pricey once you factor in Labor. Im overseas right now so I cant do it myself but I got hell of a deal for a complete 07 F350 D60 and 06 GM 10.5 14bolt with brakes. Luckily I already have a LS1 in my 4dr, so upgrading axles was next on list besides a turbo. Luckily for my Crane Axle is in my hometown so they are doing my swap, but after axle parts, fab parts, lockers, hydro......its above what I thought it would be at, currently its about $14k with labor. But having a known axle shop that builds buggies adds some piece of mind to my jeep since it is my DD.
 
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