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1 ton axle plan

24K views 56 replies 18 participants last post by  un lupus 
#1 ·
Please check my plan for flaws:
I searched and searched...
I plan to use a 2006 ford 60 with an artec truss and dodge wheel sensors in the front.
the rear I'm hoping to use a 14 bolt that's either redrilled for the ford pattern or maybe sterling hubs? with minor machining of the hubs and tone rings pressed on.
It seems as though the sterling axles hit the gas tank a lot. Are the 14 bolts better?
I'd prefer 8 on 6.5 pattern but it seems as though it would cost a lot more to convert the front.
I'm also planning on running only about 3" lift so I'm hoping the trac bar and truss all clears up front. I'm not afraid to notch the frame.
 
#2 ·
Please check my plan for flaws:

I searched and searched...

I plan to use a 2006 ford 60 with an artec truss and dodge wheel sensors in the front.

the rear I'm hoping to use a 14 bolt that's either redrilled for the ford pattern or maybe sterling hubs? with minor machining of the hubs and tone rings pressed on.

It seems as though the sterling axles hit the gas tank a lot. Are the 14 bolts better?

I'd prefer 8 on 6.5 pattern but it seems as though it would cost a lot more to convert the front.

I'm also planning on running only about 3" lift so I'm hoping the trac bar and truss all clears up front. I'm not afraid to notch the frame.

I believe the newer 60's are not compatible with the dodge sensors. Only the 99-04's. We're running a 02 with dodge sensors without issue.

I don't believe 14 bolt hubs can be redrilled a different pattern due to the way they're cast. Your best bet is to redrill the front unit bearings.

Yes, the sterlings are offset too far to the passenger side. You'll run into contact with the fuel tank if you have any type of decent up travel.

Our jk sits at right around 2.5-3" of lift. No contact issues up front. However, everything is really tight. It's all going to depend on your suspension/steering/truss setup.
 
#5 · (Edited)
The front axle is very wide at 72". Find a 14 bolt that is around 69" and then use wheel adapters that convert to 8x170. Then you have the right pattern and the width to match the front.

The 05+ axle is a little more challenging to fit due to its size and location of the diff. You will have to be careful on uptravel as the pumpkin will eventually hit the frame.

Hard to say in regards to everything else up front. I had to use an offset track bar bracket from VKS. Needed a custom track bar and drag link. However, I would not use my experience as a good data point. Too many things going on in my build.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Awesome info. Thanks.
I can get the 99-04 for the same price as the 05+ so it looks like it might be a better plan.
new plan:
99-04 SRW super duty 60 front with artec truss and dodge sensors
14 bolt rear from a late model chebby.
machine the rear hubs for tone rings and use all 4 wheel sensors
I'm not afraid of wheel adapters so that's a maybe.
 
#11 ·
Do you think the 05+ axle has enough room for a coil bucket after some trimming of the cast material?
and...
72" is pretty wide. I'm running 68" now and im about as wide as I want to be. Though since Im buying wheels I suppose offset could make it up. I have a chevy 60 in my scrambler with H1 wheels and I have always hated how the hubs hang way out.
are these hubs as long?
 
#13 ·
#14 ·
Yep, had zero issues with the Artec rear tone rings. My Jeep didn't have a single light on.

One thing to note is that Artec DOES NOT provide instructions for the rear kit. Machining the hub is logical as it is a simple mild press fit with green loctite. The mounts are another story. PITA no matter how you look at it. The bigger issue is you have to guess how they go on and which side of the axle to put them on. Get it wrong, and you did a ton of work for nothing. To make it worse, you won't be sure if they are not working because they are mounted wrong or some other issue like you wired something wrong. Shoot, I don't even know if mine are on right, but they work, and that's what matters.

I mean, it has been months since these came out. A picture of the bracket orientation seems like a reasonable thing to provide. Or, at least update the website to be more accurate, such as "installation instructions probably not coming out soon - good luck and we hope you can figure it out."
 
#15 ·
Unfortunately we are not a huge company with a ton of staff that can get all of that stuff done. That being said, we are very active and attentive to our website, Social Media and Forums to provide as much technical information to ensure these kits can be installed properly.

At some point we will have a staff to just write instructions and take install pics, but right now we still make and design parts like for the DIY guys/gals to make their life easier and allow them to build without breaking the bank.



Are you looking for an image like this?

 
#16 ·
just a heads up, I am selling an artec 14 bolt abs kit including hubs already machined with tone rings pressed on. Just make sure you have the axle that artec used, It doesnt work with a lot of 14 bolts.
 
#17 ·
A simple trick to use axles in configurations other than what we spec out is to go with a 3 link rear set up.

The JK Rear Upper Control Arms are set out so far that if you have a shorter hub distance there is not room to get the upper mounts in place.

With the 1 ton swap kits you have the truss in place all you need to do is purchase the JK rear 3 Link Bracket (http://www.artecindustries.com/JK_Rear_3_Link_Bracket) and the Rock Krawler 3 Link Frame side mount and make an upper link.
 
#21 ·
I went the same direction and fabbed it all with a link bracket and some 1" flat bar. I drilled holes in the flat bar and ran that to the rear crossmember. Works pretty well and it was a heck of a lot simpler to complete.

These are all very old pictures, so the goofy stuff has been fixed. Like the Ujoint straps lol
 
#18 · (Edited)
yup..
this is exactly why I'm asking for a critique of the plan.
There are a lot of variables.
I think I like invest24me's plan..
run an 06+ front superduty axle with an artec truss and a 14bolt with wheel adapters in the rear.
seems easy and not crazy expensive.
I'm now wondering how hard it would be to change the front tone rings to 52 tooth so my speedometer would stay accurate.
 
#23 ·
The factory tone ring in JK is 52 tooth. The 2005+ SuperDuty is 60 tooth. We do not know a simple and inexpensive way to change out the SuperDuty tone ring so we just say to match the rear axle to the front then use a programmer to make sure the speedo reads correctly.

The computer does not know how many teeth are on the tone ring it just knows how to calculate the ticks it receives when reading. So although it seems like it would be off a lot from 52 to 60 it is a small variation.
 
#25 ·
The computer does not know how many teeth are on the tone ring it just knows how to calculate the ticks it receives when reading. So although it seems like it would be off a lot from 52 to 60 it is a small variation.
The computer does know how many teeth are on the ring or else it wouldnt be able to calculate a revolution.

Going from 52 to 60 teeth without reprogramming the computer is a 15% variation :nono:
 
#31 ·
Well I finally picked up an 07 super duty 60 and am 01 HD 14 bolt.
right now I'm debating on whether I should use adapters on the rear or redrill the front for 8 on 6.5. the 8 on 6.5 might be nice so I could swap wheels between the scrambler and JK.
I'm also trying to figure out what backspacing wheels I want. Im pretty sure I'm going to run 40's but I do drive the jeep on the street a lot. I like some of the stock 99-04 f-250 wheels with 4.25" backspace but I don't know how far out these would put the tires.
 
#33 ·
Give us a call. We can help with any of your questions. We also have many new products available for these axles, including custom parking brake cables, high steer arm (all others are not JK geometry correct), diff covers, steering, tapered knuckle inserts, etc. Also have all parts in stock for the axles such as u-joints, seals, ball joints, etc. For these axles we also carry gears, lockers, and install kits.
 
#35 ·
So after some research my project is nearing completion.
Strangely, I stuck mostly to the plan and it is going well.
I started with the rear 14 bolt. I bought a plasma cutter from home depot for $320 and they gave me a $50 military discount. When it came, I noticed that it looked like a lightweight POS so I was skeptical until it blew a hole right through the 14 bolt tube. this little machine is a beast!

The Artec rear truss did not fit as well as some of the other artec stuff I've used. actually, it all fit fine except the passenger side upper control arm mount. There no way the e-brake cable will work, and the flange bolt is tight against the mount. There would be no way to get a bolt in the upper control arm. I called artec and they said it needed "trimming". More like "cut in half". I cheated the upper link mounts in about 1" and everything looks like it will clear fine.
 

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#36 · (Edited)
the 60

The rear axle was from an 01 chevy and the front is from an 06 super duty.
The front truss fit like I have grown to expect from artec. The only question was the pinion angle and it is adjustable anyway.
Cutting the cast stuff off the axle took me 3 solid days and a lot of sawzall blades.
 

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#40 · (Edited)
better late than never.
after a long pause, I finally installed the axles this weekend.
the rear 14 bolt went right in after only changing the yoke to a 1350 and a couple banjo bolts for the calipers.
I also put a fresh set of evo 4" springs in to help clear the 40's
The front was harder. it bolted right in, but I don't have a drag link or ram clamp yet so I haven't been able to drive it.
I put a J8 booster and master cylinder in, but it doesn't stop for crap. it looks like I'll need to get the ABS module pulsed.
Hopefully the steering will arrive and i'll get it driving this week.

for reference,
the trac bar bracket doesn't look like it will hit the diff, and everything seems to fit pretty well.
 

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#42 ·
perfect timing, and just going through a similar setup (front 79, and rear old school 14 bolt). For the rear, did you have to machine the hub for the tone rings? I believe Artec require machining, VKS has ones that supposedly do not require machining of the hub?

I will have to inboard my uppers in the rear a bit as well as I am using the ARTEC truss in the back. If not much troub;le, can you give me a ballpark on the uppers on what is the distance between the artec upper brackets on yours? I was hoping to go ARtec with the fornt truss, but they did not have a kit that would work on the 79 as easily as they have the SD and 89 D60's, so I ended up having to slightly mix and match and went with TNT customs for the front. The aArtec design definitely looks much cleaner so I may have to do some magic on the front to pretty this up :)

As far as driveshafts what are you running customs or stockers?

Keep it coming, awesome progress!
 
#44 ·
Here s the dirty secret, I built the axles, decided not to run them, sold them, then decided I wanted them again, and built another set.
the new artec rear truss had slightly different brackets than the ones in these pics and they fit better.
the rear axle really turned out nice and it looks like there is lots of clearance for the tank.
the rear 1350 driveshaft I had fit fine but I had to cut the front a bit
 
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