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2005+ Super Duty D60 Axle Bible

175K views 118 replies 43 participants last post by  Eburgpirate 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
Given the interest in the 2005+ Super Duty axle, I decided to collect all the relevant information in one place. I'll continue to add to and update the list as I find new information.

For those with info to add or corrections to make, please PM me rather than posting a reply as this thread will be most useful if we contain the info in the original post. Certainly feel free to have a discussion in the thread, ask questions, post pictures of what you have done with the axle, etc.

Axle: 2005-2010 D60
***There is some confusion over the term "super 60". The true Super 60 is found on the F450/F550. The axle is wider, has larger knuckles, 10 lug adapters, some have a 10" ring gear and 1550 u-joints, etc.

Related Trucks: F250/F350, SRW (not sure on DRW)

Axle Specs
-Tubes: 3.75" OD, 1/2" wall
-WMS to WMS: 72"
-Ring Gear: 9.75" (a 10" can be sourced from Ford in limited ratios)
-Lug Pattern: 8x170
-Wheel Studs: M14x1.50
-Weight: Approximately 750lbs loaded with brakes
-Axle shafts: 35 spline
-U-joints: 1450
-Tone ring: 60 tooth

Part numbers for axle parts (not an inclusive list)
Ball Joint Upper
-Moog/XRF - K80026
-Ford - 5C3Z-3049-AB (MCSOE-67) + Nut - F2TZ-3A049-A

Ball Joint Lower
-Moog/XRF - K8607T
-Ford - 8C3Z-3050-C (MCSOE-51) + Nut - F2TZ-3A050-A + Snap Ring - EOTZ-3K050-B

Updated Dust Shield
-Ford - AC3Z-1S175-A (BRS-170)
-Spicer - SS 53877

Axle Seal
-Ford - 5C3Z-3254-AA
-Spicer - SS 2017426 (55474 old#)

AutoLock Hub O-Ring kit (not needed since vacuum system won't be used)
-Ford - 5C3Z-1K106-AB (complete kit with 2 o-rings, gasket, screws)

Yellow Hub/Knuckle O-ring
-Ford - 5C3Z-4A322-AA
-Dana/Spicer - 54983

U-Joint
Spicer - SPL55-3X
Spicer Greaseable - SPL55-4X

High Steer Options
***Note that there was a small change in the knuckle design in 2009. It is unknown at this point if 05-08 knuckles can work with 09+ or if some alignment modification will be needed. The Reid knuckle below was based on the 05-08 cast.

-Reid Racing Knuckle (passenger side only): Super Duty 2005 - 2012½ — Reid Racing

-Weaver Fabrication (driver and passenger machining): Weaver Fabrication – CNC machined hi-steer kits and accessories

-4wheelsupply: http://www.fourwheelsupply.net/coll...er-duty-dana-60-high-steer-machining-services

High Steer Arms for Reid knuckle
***Note that some early versions of the Reid knuckle used a coarse thread base for the stud. See relevant stud parts below. Most will machine the arm for your desired use case. E.g. tapered end, 3/4" hole for Heim, etc.

- Artec Industries (have to call, not listed on the website)

- WFO Concepts: Steering - Steering Arms & Hardware

Stud kits

-Fine thread base: Use ARP Reid Stud kit

-Coarse thread base: Use Dorman stud (kits available at WFO) Dorman Products - 675-031

ABS sensors that work with the JK
-Dorman http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SF0YCW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=od_aui_detailpages00

Axle shafts
-RCV: CVJ60-F350


Axle Prep
***Most of what needs to be removed is obvious, however, the picture below illustrates areas to be removed (source credit: Artec). A porta-band is by far the easiest way to cut the cast. Use caution with plasma or a torch as it could cause the cast to crack.



Removing cast from driver side axle tube (and welding tube to cast)

-Use a porta-band to make parallel cuts into the cast section around the axle tube. Carefully make perpendicular cuts through the cast, but not into the underlying axle tube. Using an air hammer with a chisel will make it easy to pop the cast off. Note that the plug welds are extremely hard and will eat band saw blades. The cast will pop off around the plug welds and the plugs can be taken down with a grinding wheel later.

-It is recommended that you weld the exposed tube to the cast. I will only list methods approved by qualified engineers and PhDs in the auto industry (you may choose to go another route). Regardless, it is not recommended to make structural welds to the cast (e.g. link brackets).
***TIG wild with Ni55 or Ni99 rod with moderate pre and post heat
***Mig weld with Crown Alloy 44-30 (do not breathe the fumes while using this product. Recommend a min of a P100 filter, half face mask, and in a room that has plenty of ventilation or a vent hood. http://www.crownalloys.com/TechSheet/R44.pdf



Bracket options

-Artec swap kit (retains stock geometry): Welcome to ARTEC INDUSTRIES - Jeep, Toyota and Builder Parts

-Custom setup: Artec offers a unique bracket for the limited weld space on the driver side. If you order in advance, you can get the one out of the swap kit for the 3.75" tube. Or, they offer a stock version for a 3" tube that can be ground out to 3.75" (I don't recommend this route as it is very difficult to maintain the angle). Artec Industries 60 Lower Link Axle Brackets

-Many companies offer brackets: Artec, Ruffstuff, Ballistic Fabrication, Blue Torch Fab, etc.

-Track bar bracket when not using swap kit: The Artec JK bracket will fit with some grinding to fit the larger axle tube. I have not seen another bracket that locates the track bar forward of the axle enough to make clearing a track bar easy. Artec Industries

Drag link

- Depending on the axle side mount location, the drag link should come out around 43", therefore it requires a custom drag link (however, it may be possible to ream the pitman arm and use the stock Ford drag link)

- Drag link options: Too many to list. Many companies will make custom drag links (WFO, Bullet Proof Steering, or buy some DOM and tube adapters and make one).

Tie Rod
***Even with a low profile diff cover, some sort of offset tie rod is required - offset GM ends will not get it done. Depending on the setup, you have the option to run the tie rod over the knuckle.

Known options
- Bullet Proof Steering http://bulletproofsteering.com/

- Rock Krawler Pro tie rod ends: buy the ends for $200 and order a length of 7075 from Wide Open design or similar, you will save $200. Artec makes inserts for the knuckle. The Ford TREs are massive and the hole opening is .91". The Artec conical spacers are designed to work with the RK 18mm bolts. Bullet Proof Steering includes a solution with the tie rod.

- Make your own

Locking Hubs

- Stock Ford hubs. There are manual and auto versions. Both work as a manual-style hub.

- Warn Premium hubs. Shop Super Duty Manual Hubs | WARN Industries

- RPM Offroad Drive flange (if you wheel hard and/or run large tires off-road, it is recommended to swap drive flanges in while wheeling). RPM Offroad

Differential Covers
***A high clearance cover is recommended for tie rod clearance.

- Ballistic Fabrication (be prepared to have the cover machined flat...): http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/Ford-Superduty-Dana-60-Differential-Cover_p_1887.html

- ARB: http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-153384-dana-60-70-diff-cover-arb.html

- Teraflex: OK 4WD
 
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#2 ·
Great post, thanks for sharing this info!
 
#4 ·
Subscribed. Great stuff. Will definitely be using this and I'll send you a pm if i find anything else worth a damn.
 
#8 ·
Well, there really isn't much to the Sterling. Artec makes a swap kit, or you can put your own brackets on. Then it is just the usual decisions such as gears/lockers, driveshaft, etc. Already has disk brakes. Only issue is there is usually a contact issue with JKUs where it touches the gas tank skid. Most people just put in a tank off a 2-door and that solves it.
 
#7 ·
Awesome! Been reading a bunch on pirate about these. Thanks for the post!
 
#14 ·
I say not worth it. You will need to get all four hubs and rotors drilled and then any time you need a new rotor or hub, same thing again. Also, I don't think there is enough material on the hub for it to be safe.

Now, another option would be if your wheels have a decent amount of backspace, say 5" or more. Then you could use adapters from Bulletproof Offroad. It would just add an inch.
 
#17 ·
Does anyone have a set of axle shafts sitting around? I broke my drivers side inner shaft this weekend and am looking to order some chromos but I'm trying not to pull it part as it's still drivable right now.

What I need is the length of the inner axle shafts. I think they are measured from the end of the shaft to the center of the u-joint ear. Any help is appreciated.

My axle is from an 05 F-250 btw.
 
#18 ·
Short: 16.75”
Long: 38.875"

Correct, measured from the end of the shaft to center of ear. It is unfortunate that no one makes an outer chromo, so it is RCV or bust. I do know of a company who will be offering a full setup, but it will be end of this year or next year.

We do carry the RCVs for your axle if you are interested in something really strong. :)
 
#20 ·
So just to add value to this thread. I reamed my stock pitman arm and reused the factory f350 drag link. Worked perfectly. That should be noted in the top for people doing this swap on the cheap. No need for fancy knuckles and high steer.
 
#24 ·
2climbing has bent three I believe. It is thin wall steel. The ends are where a lot of the weight is. Last I checked, he is going to try sleeving a stock one with chromo this time.

Another option would be to reuse the ends and use a new 7075 sleeve. I have not tried, but I am sure we could machine some 7075 solid bar to fit the ends and then machine some jam nuts. Just not sure it is worth the investment into a stock tie rod.
 
#33 ·
What is everyone's' method(s) for removing the snap rings on the axle shafts inside the hubs? I have one removed, but one is a real pain (and ridiculously stiff). I know this seems simple in theory, but I've bent a handful of pliers, tips, and some are to big for the constrained area. Any input on methods and specific pliers would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
 
#34 ·
#36 ·
Just trying to add value.
I ordered the brakes and ball joints for mine today

All these prices came straight from rockauto

The first set of part numbers is for the rear 14 bolt:

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2001 CHEVROLET SILVERADO 2500 6.6L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged
POWER STOP KCOE2041 Caliper / Rotor / Brake Pad Kit $ 166.79 - 1 $ 166.79
POWER STOP

[Kit Component] Brake Pad
$ 25.75 $ 0.00 1 -
POWER STOP

[Kit Component]
$ 0.00 $ 0.00 1 -
POWER STOP

[Kit Component] Rotor
$ 42.11 $ 0.00 2 -
POWER STOP

[Kit Component] Caliper
$ 28.41 $ 22.37 1 $ 22.37
POWER STOP

These are the parts for the 60:

[Kit Component] Caliper
$ 28.41 $ 22.37 1 $ 22.37
2007 FORD F-250 SUPER DUTY 6.0L V8 DIESEL Turbocharged
A-1 CARDONE 165023 (16-5023) Caliper $ 70.79 $ 70.00 1 $ 140.79
A-1 CARDONE 165022 (16-5022) Caliper $ 70.79 $ 70.00 1 $ 140.79
MEVOTECH MK8607T Ball Joint $ 19.48 $ 0.00 2 $ 38.96
MEVOTECH MK80026 Ball Joint $ 18.38 $ 0.00 2 $ 36.76
Discount $ -19.20
Shipping Ground $ 81.54
Order Total $ 631.17

Part Number Part Type Price EA Core EA Quantity Total
2008 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5.9L L6 DIESEL Turbocharged
DORMAN 970052 (970-052) ABS Wheel Speed Sensor $ 25.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 51.58


This means that the front 60 was $500 from the junkyard, $400 for the artec truss, $350 for ball joints and brakes, $1000 for the ARB, $500 for gears and master rebuild kit. Add in probably $50 worth of paint, sawzall blades, grinder wheels and welder gas/ wire. I'll probably buy fusions steering for about $1500. Dodge wheel sensors were $50 shipped so I'll be right at $4350 for the front doing all the work myself.

the rear axle was $400 at the junkyard. $1500 for ARB, gears, master install kit, $380 for artec truss, $180 in calipers, rotors, pads, another $50 in consumables , and $180 fopr wheel adapters for 8 on 170 bolt pattern puts the rear axle at $2640

this project will then be at $7000 for the axles. I'm really trying to help folks decide whether it's cheaper for you to build them yourself or just buy the ud60's from mopar. mopar axles are about 11kplus the $1500 for the steering so that's at least $12500 plus shipping.
By my math I'm saving $5500 by doing the work.

The steering is going to cost the same either way, and both ways you would have to buy wheels, tires, and a larger master cylinder. The UD 60 has nicer hubs and takes a lot less time to get the parts together. It also has a nice diff cover and alloy shafts. My axles will have better lockers and bigger ujoints.

I'll update as I go if there are any other unforeseen costs
 
#37 ·
So I have about 2 grand in my swap and my jeep goes down road just fine. You spent a bunch of money and did it the expensive way. I spent little money and did it the cheap way.

I splurged on the artec truss kits, and that was money well spent. I bought 1 rear cv driveshaft, sourced the front from a junkyard truck. I reused all the factory ford steering parts and had the stock jeep pitman arm reamed. Lincoln locked the front axle , running same 3.73 gearset that was in them. Its all about how you spend your money, but at the end of the day, we both have 60's hung under our jeeps and mine will wheel just as good as yours.
 
#39 ·
Around here 3.73 gears and welded diff's are not going to wheel as well as low gears and an axle that can turn when you want it to. I could see how maybe in mud it would work well.
If I wanted that I'd build a buggy, not a JK.
It's easy to weld some stuff together and trailer a rig to the trail, I've had plenty of those and they are fun but not usually true driving vehicles.
I drive sometimes hundreds of miles at a time to the trail in my rig. We take it almost every weekend to our cabin that is 2 hours away. Highway speeds here really are about 80mph. Right now my jeep drives fantastic on the freeway and wheels great. I would rather keep the dana 44s than make the jeep less streetable.
I don't want junkyard parts with 100000 miles on them failing somewhere. My ball joints were shot, the steering components were shot. My axles didn't have brakes. My wife daily drives this jeep.

If your works good for what you use it for.. great.
I posted all the numbers so folks could see what it all costs to build these axles the right way as a comparison to the UD60's.
That way folks can obviously see that the arb'S and gears are nearly $3000 by themselves. I probably could have kept the ball joints but they were under $100 to change while I have the knuckles off.
The steering is a place I'm more willing to spend some extra coin... if it's right. I want it to drive well so that means high steer. high steer means do it half-assed and get the stock knuckle milled (costs about $285 after shipping) or buy a reid knuckle. The stock steering tie rod ends are expensive for this axle and the tie rod is way too thin walled. I haven't ordered anything for the steering yet. I'm still undecided because I really don't want to spend that much if I don't have to. but again.. I'd rather not install the axle than ruin the jeep with crappy steering.
 
#42 ·
I'm just going to quit putting my .02 in. F*ck it yall keep convincing people that they have to spend 10k plus on 1 ton axle upgrades. Keep telling me what I did doesn't work, when clearly it does. I really just don't give a shit anymore trying spread USEFUL knowledge on how to swap 1 tons on the cheap. So again, go f*ck yourselves and good luck on your store bought million dollar axles swaps.
 
#48 ·
Hey I did not put you in that category of a stereotypical millennial. He exhibited the traits. My wife is in the millennial category so I know where you are coming from. If someone in the millennial age range and have a Bernie Samders sticker on your ride, you oualify as a stereotypical gimme millennial.
 
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