Here's a few of my thoughts
Make sure the light openings in the bumper fit the factory fogs.
Definitely going to happen. The factory fogs will sit right inside the front edge of the bumper. They won't stick out where they would get broken.
The jack holes need to be symmetrical. Both inboard or both outboard of the shackle tabs. Reinforce the tops of the jack holes so jacking it up slightly off camber does not bend the 3/16 material.[/QUOTE]
Initially, our thought was to make them symmetrical. However when you look at the mechanism of a Hi Lift, it's not symmetrical. The right side of the jack is a smooth plate, and the left side is where the large mechanism is. By putting the jack slots to the left of the shackle tabs, the Hi Lift mates securely in the slot and up against the shackle tab. The makes for a VERY secure jack location. The jack can't slide out or twist around. Much safer. The lift area inside of the jack slot is heavily reinforced and won't bend.
Sandwiching 2 pieces of 3/16 plate together (for the winch mount) is asking for trouble. Road salt will find its way in there to the bare steel and rust it from the inside. You would still need to add a fairlead mount though.[/QUOTE]
The top plate only serves the purpose of mounting the fairlead. I've seen some Jeeps from the rustbelt and that stuff gets everywhere! We use an industrial powdercoat that is the toughest option available for fighting corrosion. A thin bead of black silicone around the fairlead plate would keep road salt and water out though.
You would be better off making the top of the bumper out of 1/4 inch material. That way, the winch load would be more evenly spread across the full width of the bumper and better distributed to the frame rails. I didn't see the back of the bumper so I don't know what kind of reinforcing you have planned for there. You definitely need something at the back of the bumper, under the rear winch bolts, spanning the full width between the frame rails to resist the winch pulling upward on its back 2 bolts.[/QUOTE]
We're on the same page. There's a substantial amount of bracing and gussets underneath of there!
I think your endcaps still need a little work asthetically. I personally don't care for the way the end plate is beveled back towards the longitudinal centerline of the vehicle. Perpendicular to the bumper face just looks better. On the full width bumpers, you may wish to find a way to narrow the gap between the bumpers and the stock fender flairs. This can be accomplished by swooping the endcaps back and up. This gives improved approach angle while still protecting the fenders from trees.[/QUOTE]
I'll take a look at this.
I'm still waiting for some bumper manufacturer to offer a real hood loop that will protect the radiator in a roll. The difficulty here is that it must be structurally sound AND be removable for removing the grill for maintenance.
I agree. Removable makes it cheaper to ship too.
I'm glad you decided to attach the shackle tabs to the frame. Hopefully you're bolting it directly to the frame rails and not the plate welded to the frame rails. [/QUOTE]
We are using 8 bolts to mount to the frame end cap plates. Every bumper manufacturer I'm aware of uses this method and I've never seen this as a deficiency. Let me know what you think.
Finally, please add a provision for adding tow hooks on top of the bumper. When a simple light tug from a snatch strap is needed, messing with a shackle is too much hassle. Especially if you're standing in 3 feet of 40 degree water.[/QUOTE]
I 100% agree. These will be on there. Thanks for the well thought out comments!
John @ Benchmark