Garage Door Opener Mod - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 02-09-2009, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Garage Door Opener Mod

Here is a pic of my Garage door opener mod. I thought it might be nice not to keep the garage door opener exposed. Plus my last vehicle had Homelink and that spoiled me, so I wanted something slick and cheap.

Parts List:

(1) Radio Shack 275-0644 - SPST Momentary Pushbutton Switch
(1) Liftmaster Secure + remote
(1) 2' of Cat5 cable - stripped 2 of the lines out of it for this mod

> I drilled a 1/2" hole below the driver vent in the center console.

>Then fed the wire to the glove box.

>I took the liftmaster remote apart and on the backside of the button I used for my garage door I soldered two leads.

>Then drilled a small hole in the side of the remote to run the wires out of.

>Test it and put it all back together and even use the visor clip to keep the remote in the glove box. Easy access to replace the battery in the remote as well.


08 Sahara Unlimited

Last edited by firewire; 02-09-2009 at 06:36 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 02-09-2009, 07:20 PM
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nice mod!

Also, like the 09 piece that you added. Where did you get that and how much?
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post #3 of 16 Old 02-09-2009, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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I got the '09 piece from Air Park Chrysler Jeep. I found something else on ebay they were selling and asked about that piece and they said they had it. It was around $30. Some might think it's overpriced, but the extra storage was well worth it. I think their direct site is chryslerjeepdodgeparts.com

I will have to look for the part number again.

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post #4 of 16 Old 02-09-2009, 08:34 PM
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i did the same thing but the opener is zip tied way up inside the dash out of eyesight and shes been going strong for 2 years now

www.jeepasylum.com
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post #5 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 08:31 AM
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Did you guys try to put it in the roll bar on the driverís side? I saw on here a while back the if you unzip the roll bar that runs parallel to the door you have a cut out that holds the remote. All you do is push the button thru the cover. But as for this mode Way cool Idea. Would that work for relocating the overdrive button on to the steering column or on the dash?
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post #6 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 09:17 AM Thread Starter
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I did read the roll bar solution, but it didn't appeal to me.

As far as relocating the OD button, I don't see why not. You would have to plug the hole with something aesthtically pleasing though. And of course extend the wiring.

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post #7 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 09:42 AM
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Nice mod.

I often worry that someone will break into the jeep and then use the remote to access the house through the garage (jeep is always outfront). I wonder what it would take to do this mod, but power the remote off the accessory power line that is only hot when the jeep is turned on. Just another layer of protection.

I just went the other route and hid the remote in the rollbar padding. It's easy to reach and out of sight.

- Ruskin
2.5"Tera, 34"Maxxis, Front Stubby, Cobra75, Flapless Seatbelts & Grounded Floormats

Last edited by Ruskin; 02-10-2009 at 03:18 PM.
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post #8 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 09:56 AM Thread Starter
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I would imagine you could, but my battery was a 3v large button type. Some do have that little 12v mini AAA looking one. So mine would involve resistors and such to bring it down to 3v, and while convenient, I am not smart enough for that stuff! But I can however swap a battery out and solder two wires.

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post #9 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 10:35 AM
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Easy stuff, just use a 3.3v zener diode to drop the voltage down, smooth any ripple with a 100uF elec cap.

/jl

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post #10 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 12:36 PM
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Nice, I like it.

X2 on the part number for the net.

2007 JK, 4.5" RE LA kit, ATLAS4spd, ARB rear w/ Superiors, Rubi front w/RCV axles, 5.38's, 40" KM2's, 18x10 Raceline Beadlocks, 1"BL, Poly Rockers, RR corners, PS fenders, etc...the list goes on.
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post #11 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 12:41 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John L View Post
Easy stuff, just use a 3.3v zener diode to drop the voltage down, smooth any ripple with a 100uF elec cap.
Ohhh yeah, smooth the ripple....

I was just didn't know if 100uF or 101uF would work. Dang the luck.

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post #12 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 12:50 PM
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A .1uF ceramic would be just fine, as long as you're within a few cm of the power input. Doesn't need to be electrolytic.

!c
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post #13 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 01:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdrone View Post
A .1uF ceramic would be just fine, as long as you're within a few cm of the power input. Doesn't need to be electrolytic.

!c
Not necessarily, some of the power in the JK is PWM. Depends on where you tap at. I like electrolytics, nice and smooooooth......
You never know how a device (aka door opener) will respond to nasty spikes when it's expecting a consistant power supply.

/jl

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post #14 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 01:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John L View Post
Not necessarily, some of the power in the JK is PWM. Depends on where you tap at. I like electrolytics, nice and smooooooth......
You never know how a device (aka door opener) will respond to nasty spikes when it's expecting a consistant power supply.
Good point - although it's worth noting that the lighter outlets are not PWM =)

As I work more with smaller, low-voltage systems - I tend to favor those parts which are small, inexpensive, and unlikely to blow up in my face when prototyping *grin*. I can see the preference for electro caps in a larger system like a vehicle.

!c
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post #15 of 16 Old 02-10-2009, 04:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkdrone View Post
Good point - although it's worth noting that the lighter outlets are not PWM =)

As I work more with smaller, low-voltage systems - I tend to favor those parts which are small, inexpensive, and unlikely to blow up in my face when prototyping *grin*. I can see the preference for electro caps in a larger system like a vehicle.

!c
LOL, yeah, I've had a few pop on me, all that stringy crap all over the place.

I had a scare a while back, I was proto'ing a PIC based HV generator, was supposed to cap off at about 250 volts, so I power up, watching the DVM, 100, 200, 300, (oh sh*t), 400, (OH SH*T) 450.....all this happened in about 1.5 seconds, faster than the refresh rate of the DVM. My caps were rated at 300, that would have been a nasty *POW* if they would have let go.....


OK, back on topic, to the OP, nice work. I did the same thing for my Harley.

/jl

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post #16 of 16 Old 02-11-2009, 07:19 AM Thread Starter
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The lower dash panel with net part number is 5KT961DVAA. Air Park Jeep charged me $27.24 plus $9.75 shipping.

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