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post #1 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 10:26 AM Thread Starter
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Issues with HID's

I'm having an issue with the JK after an HID conversion.

With the key on or off, engine NOT running, the HID's work fine.

As soon as I start the Jeep, they strobe.

Any ideas why?

Jason

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post #2 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 10:48 AM
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Did you just use the factory wiring, or did you install a relay with power from the battery? How many watts do your HIDs draw on startup?

Last edited by n8it; 10-29-2008 at 12:12 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 11:13 AM
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headlamps are on the pulse width modulation circuits.

you need a capacitor on the headlamp POS and the trigger on the relay for both the low and highbeams if it's a bi-xenon headlamp

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Last edited by paragon; 10-29-2008 at 11:19 AM.
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post #4 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 12:11 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n8it View Post
Did you just use the factory wiring, or did you install a relay with power from the battery? How many watts do your HIDs draw?
35watt valeo sylvania bi-xenons. Originally with factory wiring, as we did our TJ, and now with a relay harness on the low beam, same result. Gonna try relaying the high beam now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by paragon View Post
headlamps are on the pulse width modulation circuits.

you need a capacitor on the headlamp POS and the trigger on the relay for both the low and highbeams if it's a bi-xenon headlamp
I'm gonna run a second relay harness for the high beam to see if it helps, and it appears to already have a capacitor on it. Do I need to add one to the lows? What kind of cap should I be looking into?

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post #5 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 12:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
35watt valeo sylvania bi-xenons. Originally with factory wiring, as we did our TJ, and now with a relay harness on the low beam, same result. Gonna try relaying the high beam now.



I'm gonna run a second relay harness for the high beam to see if it helps, and it appears to already have a capacitor on it. Do I need to add one to the lows? What kind of cap should I be looking into?
I think you'll need the cap on both the high beam circuit and the low beam circuit.

I simply went to Radio Shack and got 2 55v caps. I used the PS headlamp harness to trigger the relays (one for high and one for low beams) which fired the HIDS.

Just solder or otherwise attach the cap from the Headlamp wiring POS to the ground with the arrows on the cap pointing from POS to ground.

I'll try to see what the exact part number is. I think I bought extras expecting the caps to wear out in a few years.

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post #6 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 12:22 PM
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this is what I got

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...entPage=family

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post #7 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 01:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paragon View Post
Thanks, I've got the boss on a Radio Shack run now.

The relay harnesses for the high and low beams eliminated most of it, but they still have a flicker now and then, so hopefully the caps take care of it.

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post #8 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 03:40 PM Thread Starter
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So that was a bust.

Installed caps on the two low beam wires, still strobes some.

Installed caps on the high beam wires, headlights no longer work at all.

Silly question, but the arrows on the caps indicate the direction to install them and the arrows should point to the HID ballast side of the wire, correct?

At this point I am so close to SEMA that the stock stuff may end up going back in.

Poop.

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post #9 of 12 Old 10-29-2008, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
So that was a bust.

Installed caps on the two low beam wires, still strobes some.

Installed caps on the high beam wires, headlights no longer work at all.

Silly question, but the arrows on the caps indicate the direction to install them and the arrows should point to the HID ballast side of the wire, correct?

At this point I am so close to SEMA that the stock stuff may end up going back in.

Poop.
Caps need to be before the relay off the stock wiring and the 12V for the relay (30 IIRC) should be direct from the battery.

I'll try to use this as the arrowing on the caps - >>>>>>

Just assume you don't have anything wired up.

On the stock wiring to the headlamp is where you place the caps. There are 3 wires, LO HI and GROUND. One cap should be installed so that it goes from LO >>>>>> GROUND. The other cap should be installed so that it goes from HI >>>>> Ground.

If you plugged up the stock headlamp, it would still work and wouldn't have a faint buzz. But you need to take the trigger wire (IIRC is 86 on a relay) from the relay for the LO HID and splice to the LO of the stock harness just past the cap.

Secondly, the trigger wire from the relay for the HI HID splices to the HI of the stock harness just past the cap. All grounds splice together.

Then your wiring for the HID or any other lamp would still work behind both relays for HI or LO.

edit - I did a search and found this pic on a Chrysler forum. See how the cap is wired up.... just wire it up the same but do it to the stock wiring. The modulation needs to be stopped before the relay. The 12V for powering the lights will come directly from the Batt and won't be modulated. Don't worry, continue to ask if you don't understand. I know I suck at explanation... but it works once you get it right.


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post #10 of 12 Old 10-30-2008, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Definitely was not approaching the caps correctly, hopefully I didn't fry any bulbs or ballasts. It's too late to mess with them at all anymore, the factory stuff went back in, and I'm off to vegas in the morning.

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post #11 of 12 Old 10-30-2008, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason @ Warrior View Post
Definitely was not approaching the caps correctly, hopefully I didn't fry any bulbs or ballasts. It's too late to mess with them at all anymore, the factory stuff went back in, and I'm off to vegas in the morning.
Be careful wiring up these electrolytic capacitors backwards! They can and will BLOW UP at the oddest of times. (Like right when you're looking at them.)

That arrows points to the negative lead, always hook that up to GND.

!c
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post #12 of 12 Old 10-31-2008, 06:17 AM
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Here is a diagram of what I used to stop the pulsing. I orginally used diodes also but when I did my hemi swap I rewired my lights and left out the diodes with no problems.


07 Flame Red Unlimited Rubicon, 5.7 hemi, RCV shafts, 35" KM2's, AEV 3 1/2 lift, , AEV rear swing away Carrier, AEV Snorkel, LoD front bumper with Warn powerplant, 45qt Engel refrigerator / freezer. , Marchal E-Code lamps
DIY Hemi build
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