Factory Fog lights [Archive] - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

: Factory Fog lights


BrianJK
04-20-2009, 06:26 AM
Trying to wire up Factory fog lights, for 2008 X that did not come with any.
I have A new bumper with fogs just waiting to go on. Ive also posted this on another site that shall remain nameless... I got 1 hit so far, not that I don't trust the advice, just like to read other opinions to decide wich is best for me.
Installed new stalk switch without problem. When I pulled back the TIPM and pulled the D-connector. The instructions say to pull the plastic pins in cavity 11 and 16...
There are already wires coming from those slots. I know people have done this install.
I looked everywhere under the front bumper, I do not have fog light wire harness there. I do now... I got everything wired in except the D-connector hookup . Any help will be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Brian

Alter Ego
04-20-2009, 07:12 AM
On the factory wiring, the fog light power comes out of the TIPM on connector C4 which is a 16 pin connector.

Pin 11 is for the right fog light . It's white with an orange stripe. From there it goes to pin 2 on C103 and comes out white with an orange stripe. From there it goes to C300 pin 7. It stays white/orange and goes to pin B on the right hand fog light connector.

Pin 16 is for the left fog light . It's white with a yellow stripe. From there it goes to pin 1 on C103 and comes out white with a yellow stripe. From there it goes to C300 pin 6. It stays white/yellow and goes to pin B on the left hand fog light connector.

I wonder if your kit just bypasses C103 and C300?

thaduke2003
04-20-2009, 07:13 AM
Well, if there are wires in the connectors, two things:
1st, make sure you have the right pins- I've done it myself more than once, where the diagram somehow gets held upside down- d'oh! :)
2nd, see where they go!
Best of luck, and sorry I can't be of more help- Mark W.

BrianJK
04-20-2009, 07:22 AM
Ive read that some people cut the wires coming from slot 11 and 16 and solder the jumper in harness in its place. they say the original wires are dead ends somewhere in the front of the jeep. is this true?
Brian

Alter Ego
04-20-2009, 07:48 AM
Ive read that some people cut the wires coming from slot 11 and 16 and solder the jumper in harness in its place. they say the original wires are dead ends somewhere in the front of the jeep. is this true?
Brian

I can't answer that.

I have a feeling that once you get it wired up, you still may have to go to the dealer and have them turn that function on in the computer. I know you do with the swaybar retrofits.

It seems to me like the easiest way would be to wire a switch to a relay that will drive the fogs. That way you can turn them on whenever you want, not just when the computer gives you permission.

BrianJK
04-20-2009, 08:57 AM
I would like to keep the fogs factory operational.
Brian

Alter Ego
04-20-2009, 12:39 PM
Brian, was that the information you were looking for? I wasn't really sure what you needed.

BrianJK
04-20-2009, 02:57 PM
On the factory wiring, the fog light power comes out of the TIPM on connector C4 which is a 16 pin connector.

Pin 11 is for the right fog light . It's white with an orange stripe. From there it goes to pin 2 on C103 and comes out white with an orange stripe. From there it goes to C300 pin 7. It stays white/orange and goes to pin B on the right hand fog light connector.

Pin 16 is for the left fog light . It's white with a yellow stripe. From there it goes to pin 1 on C103 and comes out white with a yellow stripe. From there it goes to C300 pin 6. It stays white/yellow and goes to pin B on the left hand fog light connector.

I wonder if your kit just bypasses C103 and C300?
According to the instructions, It says to disconnect "D" connector witch is a 16 pin connector. Then plug the jumper harness into slot 11 & 16.

Follow link.. justforjeeps.com/guide/82210217.pdf

Here are the instruction for the kit. almost identical to the instructions I have but this one shows oval fogs, I have the Mopar round fogs that install into bumper. Refer to page 3 & 4, I'm confused about slot 11 & 16. They already have wire coming From those slots.
Brian

Alter Ego
04-20-2009, 09:01 PM
I'm confused about slot 11 & 16. They already have wire coming From those slots.
Brian

Are they the WT/OR and WT/YEL wires? If so just remove them from the connector and insert your wires.

According to those instructions, you'll have to go to the service department to have them turn on the fog light functionality.

BrianJK
04-20-2009, 10:13 PM
Are they the WT/OR and WT/YEL wires? If so just remove them from the connector and insert your wires.

According to those instructions, you'll have to go to the service department to have them turn on the fog light functionality.

Im not sure of the color of wires, (WT/OR & WT/YEL) Ill have to check again. I didnt pay much attention to that when I first tried the jumper install.
Is there a way of finding out where the 2 wires I need to take out go, to see in fact that they are dead ends? If in fact they do go up to the front of the jeep I could just tie in there and shorten my wire harness.
Im trying to get things done by May, Thats my registration month. I could have the dealer flash the computer for fogs while its there for inspection.
Brian

Alter Ego
04-21-2009, 06:37 AM
If they are the WT/OR and WT/YEL wires, then they are the factory fog light wires going through C103 and C300.

BrianJK
04-22-2009, 09:33 AM
I decided to remove the 2 wires from the "D" connector. They were in fact WT/OR & WT/YEL. The same as the jumper connector. One was in slot 11 and the other was in slot 16. The same as the instructions. Hooked everything up... Aaannd, NO fog lights. I kinda figured that was gonna happen.
Jeep started find let it run a while, didn't throw any codes...
Will be getting the computer flashed during state inspection next month, will keep everyone informed.
Thanks everyone for your help. Brian

thaduke2003
04-22-2009, 09:36 AM
I checked back on it- you DO need to have the dealer flash the ECU to add fog lights if you're using the OEM-style stalk- Mark W.

Canadian Bear
04-28-2009, 07:49 PM
Ok, now what if you went with an after market switch, say from sPOD, etc? Would you have to install the female connectors?

I have just "purchased" (with a case of Keith's :D) a bumper with the tow hook holes and fog lights. My JK is an "X" that had neither of these.

bfj aka tambil
04-28-2009, 07:59 PM
Which female connectors? At the lights?

thaduke2003
04-30-2009, 01:11 PM
Ok- this weekend I'll be tackling a semi-hack job of installing OEM foglights into a base X that didn't come with them. I am picking up an S-package X bumper tomorrow, and then, showtime! :)

Parts list:

Switch (control stalk- looks the same as OEM without foglights, but I was told I needed it- maybe I'll try this with and without the stalk to see if it's necessary)- PN 68041485AB- list $75.90

Harness overlay (center harness that has ground wire, wire connector to the harness that plugs into the fuse box, and connectors that go to jumpers to lights)- PN 5166846AA- list $34.85

Lamp- front fog (OEM fog lights- 2)- PN 4805856AB- list $68.20 each

Also, working at a dealership is paying off! Besides my discount, I got a used connector which I will use for the connection to the fusebox. The connector/harness listed in the PDF above is not for sale solo, so I'm having to rig this. Pics to follow, and I know the wires aren't color coded, but oh well :)
Check in the write-up section soon- I'll post in here after I'm done :)
Cheers- Mark W.

Edit: You will want to find a connector (from a junkyard, or dealership tech) that fits into the wiring box-side of your harness overlay, OR you can simply cut the connector off the harness and wire it directly- up to you. If you cut it, just remember which side is which! Mark W.

gold knight
04-30-2009, 01:22 PM
Ok- this weekend I'll be tackling a semi-hack job of installing OEM foglights into a base X that didn't come with them. I am picking up an S-package X bumper tomorrow, and then, showtime! :)

Parts list:

Switch (control stalk- looks the same as OEM without foglights, but I was told I needed it- maybe I'll try this with and without the stalk to see if it's necessary)- PN 68041485AB- list $75.90...........................Cheers- Mark W.The one with fogs pulls straight out at the tip to turn them on.

thaduke2003
04-30-2009, 02:37 PM
^Ah- gotcha :) Thank ya sir- saved me 5 minutes of looking dumb in front of the old lady ;) Mark W.

thaduke2003
05-05-2009, 12:10 PM
Ok. So, the digicam crapped out, so no pics yet- once I get a new battery, I'll try to post them up.
Didn't need the 2 jumper harnesses to the fogs- the main harness was plenty long.
Here's what you'll need tool-wise:
T20 screwdriver-style tool, crimpers, wire strippers, flat and phillips head screwdriver. If you want to solder, a gun and solder are useful :)
Disconnect the battery before you start this procedure!
Ok. So first, pop out the grill, then the plastic beneath it. If you are bumper-swapping as I was, use an 18mm socket with some extension to remove the 8 nuts holding on the bumper. Before you swap on the new bumper, install the fog lights with 8 small screws which the old owner hopefully provided. If not, use what you have around the house :)
Next up, re-attach the bumper- Loctite should be used here, just in case.
For the wiring, pop up the wiring box on the passenger side of the engine compartment, and disconnect the connector in the center closer to the front of the vehicle.
Now, on mine, and every other JK I've seen, the orange and white and yellow and white wires mentioned in the PDF above are already attached. Simply cut these (leave yourself a fair bit of room in case you need it), and solder in or butt connect in your harness connector.
Next, for the ground, there are 2 painted nuts on the passenger side fender. Use the one closer to the airbox.
Then, run your 2 fog light connectors down in front of the airbox, making sure they're not near the fans or accessory drive belt. Plug them in, dummy!
Then, hop inside the Jeep. There are 3 T20 screws holding on the lower steering column plastic cover. Kindly remove them, and pull the panel down, then remove the upper portion. Now, remove the old light/turn signal stalk, and replace it with the shiny new one you purchased. Re-connect the wires, and re-install the plastics.
Now, take your rig to your local Jeep dealership. Page 7 of the above PDF has a sheet with what they have to do. Basically, they have to go on Dealer Connect and tell Chrysler's server that your VIN vehicle now has fog lights, and then they need to download this updated setup to their StarScan tool, and plug that into your OBDII port, and that will tell your ECU that your rig now has fog lights. Whew!
Enjoy ;) Mark W.

SilverX
05-18-2009, 04:06 PM
I am currently half-way done a similar installation on my X. Why they didn't just include the same bumper cover and fog lights on every JK is beyond me... what a PITA! :pissed:

I went, at first, the same route as you've all been discussing. Bumper cover, Mopar lights, mulifunction switch with foglight capability. You do, without a question of a doubt, have to reflash your PCM to do this. As for the wiring, all these posts above look to be correct.

I, before finishing the installation, have decided to go another route. I like the factory fog lamps and bumper cover, as it's a perfect fit and meant to be there. Instead of the wiring and reflash using the multifunction switch, I have decided to pair up the fog lamps with Mopar's universal fog lamp installation kit.

Here's what you do... ditch the MF switch. Order up the kit that is supposed to be paired with that lame rectangular fog lamp kit Mopar sells for us with X's. Included is all the wiring, switch, relay and all that you need. Then, purchase the 'extension' pig-tail harnesses that Mopar also sells to relocate factory fog lamps for those who already have them, but switch up to an offroad bumper. Mating them to the universal wiring kit is a snap and that way you have true connections meant for the Mopar fog lamps.

Only drawback is... you will need to find an esthetically pleasing place to put your switch. Takes away from the all-stock look that the MF allows you to have, but after all the BS that's involved with wiring and reflashing PCM's, for me, this was a no-brainer.

On a side note.. due to the fact I am privileged enough to pay cost for these parts, this route barely cost me anymore than going the MF switch way. I'm not sure what the retail/list is on these parts, but I'm certain it would be more expensive. Just thought I'd chime in for those who don't want to bother with the changing of pins and reflashing the ECU.

RobertK
05-25-2009, 09:17 AM
Either I missed it or this thread got side-tracked... I have the same issue as the original poster, namely, I'm in the process of installing the OEM fog light kit and the instructions show that 11 and 16 in the D connector need to have the kit's connector wires attached there, but there are already wires connected there (same color as the kit wires, btw).

So, the question remains... are those factory wires that are already there "dead ends" and can be disconnected so that the kit's connector can be wired in, as per the instructions... or are those factory wires a sign that somewhere there's already a connector for the fog lamps that can be used? (I'm thinking not, there is no connector for the fog lights hiding somewhere... and the kit's connector has to be wired in... but I don't want to just pull out the wires that are already in 11 and 16 without knowing why they're there).

I see the original poster went ahead and disconnected the wires that are already there and put in the kit connector's wires... but no update on whether everything was fine after the dealer flashed the computer to recognize the fog lights.

SpEd
05-25-2009, 10:49 AM
[QUOTE=SilverX;127778]Here's what you do... ditch the MF switch. Order up the kit that is supposed to be paired with that lame rectangular fog lamp kit Mopar sells for us with X's. Included is all the wiring, switch, relay and all that you need. Then, purchase the 'extension' pig-tail harnesses that Mopar also sells to relocate factory fog lamps for those who already have them, but switch up to an offroad bumper. Mating them to the universal wiring kit is a snap and that way you have true connections meant for the Mopar fog lamps.QUOTE]

I'm researching this also. As opposed to paying Mother Mopar's pricing for a switch, wouldn't it be easier to purchase an aftermarket driving lamp set from Auto Zone or Wally-World and just use the premade harness? Do you think there'd be an issue with this if all I was using was a switch for the factory fogs and didn't care about the MF switch?

If no, then do you still have a parts listing of what you used? And would you mind stating what you spent to do this.

Just curious. Thanks in advnace.

doc307
05-25-2009, 12:52 PM
I installed the mopar kit on mine several weeks ago. I too already had the 2 wires in the D connector. I cut them and spliced in the new wires. Got the flash and everything works great. You can either cut and splice the wires or pull them out of the connector and install your new ones.

RobertK
05-25-2009, 08:42 PM
I installed the mopar kit on mine several weeks ago. I too already had the 2 wires in the D connector. I cut them and spliced in the new wires. Got the flash and everything works great. You can either cut and splice the wires or pull them out of the connector and install your new ones.

Thanks for the head's up. That's the way I'll go then... on a side note, my front grill didn't have the type of connector plugs with the screw-outs, so I was loath to mess with pulling them out. I found you could route the wiring right up alongside the already-present wiring that leads up to the fuse box from the ABS wiring already running along the front bumper, so there was no need to remove the grill.

doc307
05-25-2009, 09:05 PM
Thanks for the head's up. That's the way I'll go then... on a side note, my front grill didn't have the type of connector plugs with the screw-outs, so I was loath to mess with pulling them out. I found you could route the wiring right up alongside the already-present wiring that leads up to the fuse box from the ABS wiring already running along the front bumper, so there was no need to remove the grill.

I removed my grill for other reasons when I ran mine but we installed another set 2 weeks ago and we did not remove his grill. You are correct, you can snake the wires through.

The Joker
05-25-2009, 10:16 PM
I removed my grill for other reasons when I ran mine but we installed another set 2 weeks ago and we did not remove his grill. You are correct, you can snake the wires through.

yup! but it is TIGHT as far as length goes!