Anti-sway disconnect? [Archive] - JKowners.com : Jeep Wrangler JK Forum

: Anti-sway disconnect?


toadontheroad
10-15-2007, 01:07 PM
I'm wondering if my sway bar disconnect is working. How can I tell? I had my son push the button while watching and it didn't look like anything happened. Except for the button lighting up. Does it only become evident when the individual wheels are extended during articulation? Or maybe I didn't execute the procedure correctly ... :shaking:

MichaelW
10-15-2007, 01:10 PM
You need to be in 4-lo for this to work.

If you can get it flexed up the difference will be apparent from the outside in the form of visible flex and from the inside in the form of a generally smoother ride on rough terrain.

venom
10-15-2007, 04:04 PM
position the jeep on an angle in front a berm, rock, ditch, something that will cause a lot of lift or droop on one front wheel. drive up it with the bar connected - you'll go a little way then the jeep will tilt and one of your rear tires will come off the ground.
Back up so you're a little way in front of the obstacle again, put it in 4-lo, hit your disco button and as you drive forward it should go from blinking to solid, when it's solid, you're disconnected- drive up your obstacle with one front tire again same line as last time and you should go a lot farther up without the jeep tilting as much and before the rear tire comes off the ground again. :mr-t:

toadontheroad
10-15-2007, 04:52 PM
OK. I did not have it in 4lo. But the button did light up up without blinking. I guess that won't matter until I get it in 4lo? Or is there an idiot light that will also come on? I will definately try the flex on a berm... even if don't get it to work:grinpimp:

MichaelW
10-15-2007, 04:57 PM
Yep the light comes on but it won't disengage until you are in 4-lo.

Also note that if the axle is bound up/twisted or flexed out it also won't disengage as the swaybar has to be "free" to allow the collar to slide off.

toadontheroad
10-15-2007, 05:24 PM
I figured that. After looking at the casting with the motor, seems it is 2 ends of splined shaft that gets locked together with a splined sleeve for use. Maybe 8 pounds of extra weight to allow you to stay inside and not get your shirt dirty before you even start wheeling. Good idea.

toadontheroad
10-17-2007, 09:30 AM
I went out at lunch yesterday and tried it on a berm. I went up first connected until it rocked on opposite tires, backed down, disconnected and went up to the same spot. All 4 tires were firmly planted!

Forgive me if I seem like a rookie. It was just very exciting to see something different work well. I'm a bit of a traditionalist ..:shaking:.

dicko1
11-04-2007, 02:52 PM
Alright I have a question that hasn't been addressed or I haven't found the thread yet, but can you keep using the stock elec. sway disconnect after you install a lift?

If so at what lift height can you not use it anymore?

Just want to make sure I have all of my bases covered before I go ordering parts and lifts.
Thanks

WTF_LOL
11-04-2007, 07:43 PM
You can use it as the length of the sway bar endlinks will be what makes the diference.
For proper angels and to provide enough length as your lift goes up the sway bar endlinks should be lengthened.

For an inexpensive way to do this if you are only lifting 2 or so inches, you can get longer rear swaybar endlinks and switch the stocl rear up to the front as the rears are already a couple of inches longer then the fronts.

'drack
11-05-2007, 04:42 PM
For an inexpensive way to do this if you are only lifting 2 or so inches, you can get longer rear swaybar endlinks and switch the stocl rear up to the front as the rears are already a couple of inches longer then the fronts.

I've read about this on the smaller lifts and it got me thinking....and measuring. I'm prolly only gonna be going 1.75" to 2" tops for the time being, don't wanna sink a lot of money into a 'throw away' lift since I know I'll be going bigger down the road(keep telling myself otherwise, but I know better ;) ). Anyways, I measured up the front and rear links and the difference is a bit more than the lifts in question (don't remember the exact difference atm). Point being, stock front links are gonna have the angles off obviously, but isn't over-correcting with a considerably longer link gonna throw the angles off in the opposite direction? Just kinda thinking out loud here since I don't feel like having any complications with the e-disco but at the same time don't see the point in dropping cash on a set of JKS disco's to get it exactly level when they're not gonna be used as disco's. Maybe I just ebay the damn thing and move back to the good ole' days of crawling underneath in the mud with a hammer and some less skin on the knuckles :D .


edit-ola: okay, just found my numbers. Measured the fronts @ 3.75" and the rears @ 7.5". Think I measured from center hole to center hole, not sure, it was awhile ago.

toadontheroad
11-07-2007, 09:30 AM
edit-ola: okay, just found my numbers. Measured the fronts @ 3.75" and the rears @ 7.5". Think I measured from center hole to center hole, not sure, it was awhile ago.

So are you saying we can swap R-F for about a 3.75" lift ? Isn't that NOT a small lift for a JK?

'drack
11-07-2007, 01:06 PM
So are you saying we can swap R-F for about a 3.75" lift ? Isn't that NOT a small lift for a JK?

Yeah, see that's what I'm saying. If the rears are roughly 3.75" longer and I'm only adding 1.75 or 2" spacers, that'll still leave the links around two inches longer with just replacing the fronts with a set of rears. With my TJ I never really cared if it was off a bit, just lined up the discos and banged them together :D . I still wouldn't care much if it wasn't for the various reports I've read of issues with the e-disco and incorrect length. Maybe the links being a little longer is a non-issue, dunno. That's what I'm trying to figure out while I'm still asphalt bound.